deb.log
Three things:
-You're lacking about 3km/h at the end of the start/finish straight. This will cost you like 0.2-0.3 sec alone. Try to improve your exit out of the last corner.
-Turn in for T1: I can't really put my finger on it, but it seems like the car understeers quite a lot. Try releasing the brake a little bit as you approach the apex or if that's too difficult, use a tad more rear brake bias. Also, drop 2 gears at once as you hit the brakes for T1 and try to be a little more progressive with the inputs. Your entry doesn't look too smooth.
-In the chicane it's important to change direction quickly. If you're too slow with the steering, you'll run out of track towards the exit and will have to scrub speed. I know it's more difficult to do with mouse since there's no absolute positioning, so it'll take practice to find out how quickly you can go from steering right to steering left without getting the car into a slide. Basically your steering input has to match the weight transfer of the car.
Button clutch is worth a bit of time in the first two sectors, too.
-You're lacking about 3km/h at the end of the start/finish straight. This will cost you like 0.2-0.3 sec alone. Try to improve your exit out of the last corner.
-Turn in for T1: I can't really put my finger on it, but it seems like the car understeers quite a lot. Try releasing the brake a little bit as you approach the apex or if that's too difficult, use a tad more rear brake bias. Also, drop 2 gears at once as you hit the brakes for T1 and try to be a little more progressive with the inputs. Your entry doesn't look too smooth.
-In the chicane it's important to change direction quickly. If you're too slow with the steering, you'll run out of track towards the exit and will have to scrub speed. I know it's more difficult to do with mouse since there's no absolute positioning, so it'll take practice to find out how quickly you can go from steering right to steering left without getting the car into a slide. Basically your steering input has to match the weight transfer of the car.
Button clutch is worth a bit of time in the first two sectors, too.
Don't worry about "fair use" policies, as gaming is one of the least ressource-hungry uses of your connection. You only use a single connection and the bandwidth needed is tiny. ISP's love gamers.
As for things to look out for, I can only recommend asking around in your area. For gaming, low pings and low packet loss is important, so the quality of the connection mainly depends on how the ISP's infrastructure in your area deals with the number of customers. An ISP can be great in one village and crappy in the next one over if they oversell their capacity there.
As for things to look out for, I can only recommend asking around in your area. For gaming, low pings and low packet loss is important, so the quality of the connection mainly depends on how the ISP's infrastructure in your area deals with the number of customers. An ISP can be great in one village and crappy in the next one over if they oversell their capacity there.
Open the deb.log file in your LFS directory with a text editor after it fails to load. The last lines tell you what LFS was trying to do at that point.
The company's name is "Barabus", not to be confused with Brabus. Their website used to be http://www.barabus.info/, but it's broken.
It's just a fiberglass hackjob with a Chevy small-block and a disguised Gale Banks turbo kit. 0-62mph in 1.67 sec...yeah right. It would have to pull 1.6g sustained to do that. That's not gonna happen with any kind of road-legal tire, especially not without AWD.
I'd say it's gonna do 0-62mph in something like 3.2 sec and lose its bodywork or blow the engine/transmission long before it comes anywhere close to 400kph. In fact I'd be surprised if the transaxle in it is even specced for half as much torque as it's supposed to be putting out. Sorry, but every muppet with an angle grinder and a MIG welder can stuff an SBC into a tube-frame and cover it with some fiberglass.
Note how they just put two plates over the Banks logo on the pressure chamber.
I'd say it's gonna do 0-62mph in something like 3.2 sec and lose its bodywork or blow the engine/transmission long before it comes anywhere close to 400kph. In fact I'd be surprised if the transaxle in it is even specced for half as much torque as it's supposed to be putting out. Sorry, but every muppet with an angle grinder and a MIG welder can stuff an SBC into a tube-frame and cover it with some fiberglass.
Note how they just put two plates over the Banks logo on the pressure chamber.
Take a look at these two lines:
I'm exaggerating a little, but the first pic essentially shows what you're doing and the second one shows what you should be doing. You're in the right spot at the apex, but your car is still facing virtually straight, which means you have to slow down a lot to make the corner.
You should stay outside longer, turn in later and position the car in such a way that you can slowly start to open the steering as you go past the apex.
I'm exaggerating a little, but the first pic essentially shows what you're doing and the second one shows what you should be doing. You're in the right spot at the apex, but your car is still facing virtually straight, which means you have to slow down a lot to make the corner.
You should stay outside longer, turn in later and position the car in such a way that you can slowly start to open the steering as you go past the apex.
There are a couple of corners where you will have to make adjustments. With a proper set you should be able to brake much later and harder for T1. Brake at ~80m, drop it into third as you hit the brake and shift to 2nd before you enter. Ignore the tire squeal while braking and decrease the brake pressure as you turn in. Try to get on the throttle very early so it doesn't understeer too much.
And try not to brake for the last corner. If you turn in early and decisive enough, you'll be able to get through with just a quick lift while entering. You want to destabilize the car just a tad.
Oh, and get rid of the extra fue because it's weighing down your car. Most fast sets tend to cook the tires after a number of laps, so it's better to do 4 x 5 laps instead of 20 in a row, at least if you're going for lap times. Try 7-8% fuel.
Displaying the status of individual forum users is not quite the same as compiling and publishing rather vital business data. Use a little common sense here.
Don't you think this stat would be on LFSW if the devs wanted it to be public?
To be honest, that was some very nice driving. Your lines are pretty much dead on and you have good car control. The only reason you're not running 35's or 34's is your setup. The default setup is way soft, has an open front diff (so you don't get the power down exiting), too much brake force (so you have to be very careful not to lock up) and overall not enough grip.
Go here:
http://setupfield.teaminferno. ... ar_id=31&p_version=S2
Download one or all of the GTI setups, put them in your data\settings folder, select the one you want in the pits and watch your lap times drop. The bad news is that you are used to the poor response and grip of the default set, so you'll have to adapt to the new one...the good news is that you seem to have picked up a lot of car control skills trying to keep the poor handling car in check, so it shouldn't take you too long to learn what's possible.
Watch the hotlaps yourself. Pretty much none of the fast drivers use slow and delayed settings because it doesn't help with lap times at all. You want the controls (especially throttle and brake) to be responsive, not delayed. It's no advantage whatsoever because us wheel drivers can operate all of the controls at any rate we like, not just a predefined one.
Slow and smooth inputs are only good if the situation calls for it, but a lot of the time they're a big handicap, like when braking (wasting precious time while the brake pressure is building up) and you cannot correct/provoke small slides as well. In corners where understeer is an issue you often have to make the car a bit unstable on entry to get it to turn, and smooth inputs won't do that. Chances are the driver you're complaining about would be even faster with a wheel and pedals.
Slow and smooth inputs are only good if the situation calls for it, but a lot of the time they're a big handicap, like when braking (wasting precious time while the brake pressure is building up) and you cannot correct/provoke small slides as well. In corners where understeer is an issue you often have to make the car a bit unstable on entry to get it to turn, and smooth inputs won't do that. Chances are the driver you're complaining about would be even faster with a wheel and pedals.
Try to post a replay. I'm sure we can cut 2-3 sec from that time. 
The bending frequencies of modern regular production cars seem to be in the 15Hz-50Hz range if manufacturer data can be trusted, and probably quite a bit higher for race cars. As Hahni said, a somewhat complex structure oscilating at 100Hz or more would probably be quite a CPU hog.
The problem is that ISP's usually oversell their services. That means if there are 1000 DSL users in your area with 2MBit each, the ISP knows that not everyone will be online and using their 2MBit at the same time. So basically the ISP will only design the "central" for 200 people or so and use a 200MBit line, not 1000 people and 2000MBit. All ISP's do this to some extent, but some are worse than others. Of course when 300 or 400 people use their DSL now, it will be slow and laggy.
I'm not saying this is your problem, but it could be, especially if lag is a problem at peak times when lots of people are online (late afternoon/early evening).
In any case it would be a good idea to have a look at Pingplotter because it will help you find out where the problem lies.
I'm not saying this is your problem, but it could be, especially if lag is a problem at peak times when lots of people are online (late afternoon/early evening).
In any case it would be a good idea to have a look at Pingplotter because it will help you find out where the problem lies.
As for the bots, they'll get quicker when you let them learn. Give them a full tank of fuel and let them do 30 laps or so and you'll see their lap times dropping a little with each one.
When talking about internet connections, don't confuse bandwidth and latency. Let's say you have a truck filled with 10800 harddrives, 320GB each. If it takes 3 hours (10800 seconds) to drive from point A to point B, you're moving 320GB/sec. Great bandwidth, but really poor latency...
Basically bandwidth depends on the type of service (dial-up, ISDN, DSL etc.) and latency depends on the quality of service. You can have a 64kbit ISDN line with great pings and you can have a 10mbit DSL line with poor pings. The type of CPU is not really relevant for lag.
You should try a tool like Pingplotter that measures your latency and packet loss to different servers. Unless it's a network problem on your side (wireless?), chances are your ISP just has a poorly designed/managed or overloaded/oversold network.
Basically bandwidth depends on the type of service (dial-up, ISDN, DSL etc.) and latency depends on the quality of service. You can have a 64kbit ISDN line with great pings and you can have a 10mbit DSL line with poor pings. The type of CPU is not really relevant for lag.
You should try a tool like Pingplotter that measures your latency and packet loss to different servers. Unless it's a network problem on your side (wireless?), chances are your ISP just has a poorly designed/managed or overloaded/oversold network.
Post porn and file an abuse complaint against yourself!
I got nothing...
I got nothing...
Your brake and shift points sound right, except for two things. Braking at 150-200m is way too early for T3. Of course you won't be able to duplicate WR brake points unless you have the tires warmed up perfectly and very good car control, but 110m should be doable. Other then that, try to stay in 3rd gear before the last turn.
Of course all of this will only work if you have a decent setup, not sure about the default ones. I may try and mod a fast set a little to be easier to drive for beginners.
Very nice attention to detail and he has the I6 sound down. Excellent work with the wheelhop in the Civic, too.
Just watched the 1:36.41 lap and noticed a few things. First things first... when I point out mistakes and say "you should be doing this and that", don't take it personal.
-Are you still using automatic gear change? Cause if not, you may wanna turn off "throttle cut on upshift" in the player options. This will get you about 1-2km/h more on the straights. Try to use the shift light, too. You sometimes shift up a bit too early.
-Try not to clip the grass in front of turn 1. Dirt on your left front tire will make the car unstable under braking, and I know from experience that a car that changes direction under braking can be difficult to catch for mouse drivers. You may want to stay outside a little bit longer(only a few meters) when turning in for T1, but the exit looks good already.
-Chicane looks very good.
-For T3 (the one after the long straight) you should consider staying outside a little longer too.
-When turning in for the S at the end of the 2nd sector, you should try to be on the power. Lift or brake on the green curb, get back on the power, THEN turn in. Ideally you should be on the power through the whole S. Lifting inside the S makes the car understeer, so you have to slow down a lot to make the turn, and this hurts you on the uphill straight that follows.
-Try to use more of the curb in front of the last corner. This will give you more room to turn and more exit speed. Also, try not to let the car get sideways at the exit of the last turn cause this will cost you a lot of exit speed and time on the straight. If the rear starts to go, catch it quickly.
-Are you still using automatic gear change? Cause if not, you may wanna turn off "throttle cut on upshift" in the player options. This will get you about 1-2km/h more on the straights. Try to use the shift light, too. You sometimes shift up a bit too early.
-Try not to clip the grass in front of turn 1. Dirt on your left front tire will make the car unstable under braking, and I know from experience that a car that changes direction under braking can be difficult to catch for mouse drivers. You may want to stay outside a little bit longer(only a few meters) when turning in for T1, but the exit looks good already.
-Chicane looks very good.
-For T3 (the one after the long straight) you should consider staying outside a little longer too.
-When turning in for the S at the end of the 2nd sector, you should try to be on the power. Lift or brake on the green curb, get back on the power, THEN turn in. Ideally you should be on the power through the whole S. Lifting inside the S makes the car understeer, so you have to slow down a lot to make the turn, and this hurts you on the uphill straight that follows.
-Try to use more of the curb in front of the last corner. This will give you more room to turn and more exit speed. Also, try not to let the car get sideways at the exit of the last turn cause this will cost you a lot of exit speed and time on the straight. If the rear starts to go, catch it quickly.
Same here. just that mine's black with black wheels.
And one of these in red (1.8 rsi):
http://www.forum-auto.com/uplo ... 7707755_cote_clio_rsi.jpg
Thar car is cursed, though. Constantly trying to set itself on fire.
Cheap Logitech wheels on ebay.de
If anyone's looking for a cheap wheel and lives in or reasonably close to Germany, one seller has listed a large number of Logitech Formula Force GP wheels. Not a top of the line model, but they seem to be going for 10-15 Euros, so this might be interesting for people on a budget or someone looking for a spare wheel. To make this clear, I'm not affiliated with the seller in any way, just giving a heads up.
Basically you need a few simple things:
-a small software application that retrieves the vehicle speed from LFS (via OutGauge) and triggers an interface (parallel port or USB)
-a micro-controller hooked up to that interface controlling a voltage regulator
-a fan (i would use a 12V DC one to keep things simple)
For the software app, pretty much any language will do, fairly simple stuff.
For the microcontroller, I'd suggest looking into Atmel AVRs because they're cheap and easy to program.
For the voltage regulator you could use something like this:
http://www.conrad.de/script/5_a_drehzahlsteller-36.sap
(the one at the top of the page)
You could simply get rid of the potentiometer and connect a digital potentiometer IC that is controlled by the microcontroller instead.
-a small software application that retrieves the vehicle speed from LFS (via OutGauge) and triggers an interface (parallel port or USB)
-a micro-controller hooked up to that interface controlling a voltage regulator
-a fan (i would use a 12V DC one to keep things simple)
For the software app, pretty much any language will do, fairly simple stuff.
For the microcontroller, I'd suggest looking into Atmel AVRs because they're cheap and easy to program.
For the voltage regulator you could use something like this:
http://www.conrad.de/script/5_a_drehzahlsteller-36.sap
(the one at the top of the page)
You could simply get rid of the potentiometer and connect a digital potentiometer IC that is controlled by the microcontroller instead.
Make sure you are running identical client and server versions (patch U) and also make sure that it's not a client in demo mode connecting to an S2 server or vice versa.
Last edited by bal00, .
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