Pretty sure it's late now as it sounds like you bricked the firmware, but did you try different USB ports? With Windows being wonky crap when it comes to USB controllers, it sometimes does wonders to try another port.

Warranty over here is 2 years, maybe ask your retailer if they've made a mistake regarding it?

I tried all the available ports with it, reinstalling the drivers each time, didn't work. And its definitely 1 year here

I'm consider to buy a 500RS so my good old DFP (from 2005~) has served its time.

But i'm a bit sceptical wether it makes me a bit faster or it didnt worth its price

Everytime i read some reviews about it everyone is happy with it because they did instant automaticly better Roundtimes (1-2s) ?

It is alot better than the DFP, but wether it makes you a better driver or not is very individual. I think it might, because it will allow you to be smoother and more consistent.

mh okay i may give it a try

I have a Tableplate like this -

The Steelframe under the Plate makes it a bit difficult to mount my DFP so need to mount an extra Board on top of it to get a flat place for fixing it. Did anyone made some experience with this kind of fixing problem with the 500RS ?

Just thought I would post this here as it left me stumped for 2 days and I was ready to bomb thrustmaster head office lol

When I first plugged wheel in and did setup everything worked perfect.

After letting computer go to sleep and going out I came back and wheel was not recognised. I reinstalled driveres, restarded pc, removed every other usb, re installed windows and basically every single thing you can think of and nothing seemed to work.

I did however manage to get it in a non stop auto calibration loop for a while and then eventually it would turn on start the auto calibration process then turn off mid way all very frustrating.

I found the solution eventually I shall post it below with pics.

Firstly you need the install package from Thrust Master the current one is 2013_ttrs_2.exe

You need the whole package not just drivers so look in the PC - DRIVERS FORCE FEEDBACK (Package 2013_TTRS_2) + Firmware V41.

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng ... =2&pid=316&cid=15

I have windows 8.1 so I dont know what to do for other operating systems but im sure you will figure it out.

Go to devices and printers right click thrustmaster t500rs if its showing up and go to came controllers.



If the wheel is not showing up you will need some other sort of game controller any will do (xbox controller even the shifter will work) because you just need to get to the game controllers menu.

Once in the menu go highlight the t500 wheel and go properties it will bring up the t500 control panel if everything looks like it is working now it should be fine. I have to leave this open in order for the wheel to continue working in LFS sometimes u may need to unplug and replug the usb for it to auto calibrate properly.



If you are not getting the control panel read on.

You will have to go to the devices and printer menu again and right click the t500 wheel and go to properties. Once in properties tab make sure that you get these 2 drivers showing up like below.



If not click on the one that is not called hid compliant game controller I think mine said usb input device but I didnt take a photo of this so I cant remember. Click properties and you should get this screen below



Once there click change settings and you should get this screen below



select the driver tab then click on update driver you should get this screen



Go to browse my computer for driver software then click let me pick from a list of drivers you should be showed this screen below



uncheck the show compatible drivers list and It should change like below



then select thrustmaster as manufacturer then Thrustmaster FFB Wheel (USB) as model and select next you will be showed this check box just select yes



the driver will be installed and you should get this screen or one telling you to restart.



Booyah should all be working atleast this is what I had to do to get it working.

If ever it does not work I just repeat the first couple of steps and bring up the t500 rs control panel unplug and replug the usb and let it auto calibrate.

Since doing this I have been able to play it without any problems including putting computer to sleep, turning off, hybrid sleep, etc.

I hope this helps someone I know how frustrating it was for me to play for a few hours and absolutely love this wheel then not be able to play at all.

And please people dont bitch about the spelling mistakes etc just be glad someone is helping

While im here i thought i would do a quick review.

I have only ever owned a microsoft xbox madcatz mc2 wheel so im not going to claim to be a wheel expert. I have however played with a g25, g27 and a fanatec.

I also compete in real motorsports and have driven more race/street cars than most people due to working throughout the auto industry in various roles including a salesperson at all major brands. So I have driven pretty much all of the common supercars and normal passenger vehicles currently available. I also own a performance workshop which gives me the opportunity to drive some awesome race cars.

I feel this is all relevant because at the end of the day racing sims are designed to replicate the real thing and having plenty of experience in the real thing i can give a good review.

Ill break it down into 3 main sections wheel, pedals, shifter and follow up with a conclusion.

Wheel
First off this wheel looks really impressive and well finished. The size feels right the buttons are all in relatively easy positions to reach and the overall mechanical feel is quite solid. One thing I would change is that the paddle shifters don't move with the wheel which is probably more of a personal preference thing they do however do what there designed to do and do it well. The buttons have a nice solid click to them and feel quite good. The grip is made of rubber which alot of people complain about but i don't mind because it gives plenty of grip. Driving with this wheel is amazing it feels extremely close to the real thing and once you get the settings right to your driving style the only major thing that is missing is not feeling g forces as you corner which no wheel will ever be able to replicate.

Pedals
The pedals are quite a neat setup if you ask me they don't require addons to flip them like the fanatecs and they have a nice solid construction. They come shipped in what thrustmaster call the f1 style which felt ok but not quite what im used to so i ended up flipping them to the Gt style. I was really impressed with the feel of the pedals especially with the level of adjustment these feel like the real deal. My only problem is that when i went to install the real brake mod the supplied allen key stripped one of the bolts and i was unable to remove it. I think this could be fixed quite easily if Thrustmaster used torx headed bolts instead as they tend to strip less often apart from that these are fantastic pedals.

Shifter
I opted to get the additional shifter and am extremely happy I did even tho it looks like a gated shifter it really doesn't feel like one while your using it and touch wood i have not missed a gear yet. The gear changes feel crisp and pretty realistic compared to everything else i have ever played with and the mounting setup holds it still really well. The only thing i would change about the shifter is the ability to plug it straight into the wheel. I think this would be a better setup because you would then be able to plug this whole setup into a single usb port and be able to use the wheel with something like a cronusmax which would enable you to play this on an xbox. Probably not important to most people but having a xbox one and forza 5 id really like to play it with this wheel. I also like that it acts as both a h pattern and sequential once you change over the faceplate very nifty thinking.

Conclusion
So to wrap it all up i think this setup is definately a good investment. I live in Australia and it cost me $740 AUD all up which isn't cheap considering a g27 is $300 AUD but i still feel pleased with my purchase because the quality is pretty good and the pedals and shifter have the ability to change to suit your driving style.

Having plenty of motorsport experience in real life i think this wheel is absolutely essential if you want a sense of realism on LFS. It provides a level of immersion i have yet to feel from any other wheel. It does this by returning to centre in a straight line, it shakes over ripple strips, it auto corrects and turns with the momentum of the vehicle when you initiate a slide. There is room for improvement but at the end of the day there is only little things that need to be changed and they probably wont bother most people.

Great review!

Now I feel like my Driving Force GT is even more toy and a crappy peace of cheap Chinese plastic! So thanks for that!!

I bought this wheel after christmas. My previous wheel was Logitech Formula Force GP wheel:



About 270 degrees lock and all plastic construction. Pedals are simple 2 pot throttle and brake.

So I knew that there was going to be a significant difference but I wasn't really prepared for the difference. For one the T500 is huge, my normal seat position meant I was now staring at the wheel and could barely see the screen. After adjusting my seat, reading some setup tips I fired up trusty LFS and calibrated the wheel. Jumped in the LX6 and went for a drive. Frustratingly I crashed far far more than I would have with my old wheel. The brake was hard to gauge, having to use a clutch and gear stick was harder than I expected while lapping and the force feedback was so strong every turn was real effort and any kerb or collision knocked everything off my desk.

I fired up netkar pro to the same effect. Crashed lots, difficult to steer etc. Finally I tried iRacing, the reason I decided to change wheel in the first place and while it was better (I read more about FFB setup) I was still performing far worse than normal.

Beginning to think I'd made a mistake I fired up Raceroom Experience, in the Saleen and for the first time using the paddles to shift. Finally I found what I was looking for, fast accurate steering, strong FFB and starting to get a feel for the brake but it wasn't perfect I was still having issues with the pedals and feel from the wheel.

After much reading it seems that some sims require you to set the FFB force per car in game to get the actual feel right. I switched the pedals to GT style and installed the brake mod. I also moved the pedals about so the brake and throttle were better aligned for heel toe action. Having secured things on my desk I went through the process again.

The experience was what I'd been hoping for. Throttle and brake accuracy were easier to judge, steering was so much more precise and making accurate shifts feels good. I fired up pCARS and tried the Caterham 500 at Brands Hatch. Where before I'd catch slides with ease with my paltry 270 degree lock I was now able to feed the correct steering to not develop the slide and control it better on throttle when it did break loose. The speed and savageness of the wheel takes some getting used to but when you treat it like a car and not a game it rewards you.

Sadly it does leave you feeling like you want more. I originally thought that getting this wheel would satiate my sim driving requirements but all it has done is ignite them. I now want the loadcell mod, a cockpit, triple screen (or the Occulus Crystal Cove), buttkickers THE WORKS!

I can't say this wheel is better than the G25/27 or even the DFGT. I think it depends where you are coming from. I had a wheel that any new wheel would have been such an improvement to it would have been a great experience. The reason I went with the T500 was because it had a few more customisation options and had stronger FFB. The logitech wheels have better latency and are cheaper. If I'd had the money I'd have got the Fanatec CSR or a Frex but I didn't. I am now wondering if getting the Fanatec would be better than getting triple screen + butt kickers with my existing wheel. It seems to me that it works much the same as PC upgrades. The more you pay the better the product but the reward you get doesn't always track the same way. I doubt the CSR would double my enjoyment any more than I doubt the DFGT would half my enjoyment of racing.

My advice to anyone on a budget is to look at the complete sim setup they have and budget for that, not just the wheel. I budgeted for the wheel but I think that right now, from the setup I had, I'd have been better off getting the DFGT and triple screens, it would have given me the perspective and the massive boost in accuracy I was looking for. However now that I've got the T500 I now see that I want the full experience to match it and I don't have the money to upgrade anything else for a while.

Got all the mods I wanted for the TH8 now, big difference to stock!

• OEM S2000 knob
  
• Mr Basher's short shaft
  
• Rightongates shift plate
  

Links to mods? That looks SWEET!

For the shaft you have to contact Mr Basher directly at http://www.basherboards.com but he's apparently busy with backorders now so it can take a long time. He can make any thread you want, I went with M10x1.5 for the Honda knob.

The shift knob itself I ordered from http://www.rhdjapan.com

Patrick from http://rightongates.com sells custom shift plates.

That looks really nice. Might have to get me a new knob...

Is there a fourm by any chance dedicated to the mods like yours where people are putting different shift knobs or fitting whole new wheels to the hub?

wondering would t500rs be ok on this table ?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9zm1xmwqxo1xcc0/IMAG0183.jpg

dfgt is in one milimeter ok there ...

Not sure what I'm looking at there. I can't imagine a desk where the T500 table clamp wouldn't bite.

It's a metal bar underneath the desk at the edge almost.

Judging from photo's, those plasticy clamps should go over that bar though, because they're shaped in an arch. Maybe someone can measure what kind of bar could still fit there.

Yeah, that's what I was figuring. I can't measure mine at the moment since it's hard mounted to the Obutto, but from what I recall, the clamps would clear that bar easily.

Mind you, it is propably the shittiest table clamp system of any wheel otherwise.

facepalm

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7zi9ifw9h6w62hb/IMAG0193.jpg

Welp, didn't think that would happen as your photo didn't show how thick the bar is.

Would it work to rotate the clamp so one "foot" is over the bar and other one is on the edge? Guess it would have the same problem...

Im gonna cut that blue metal shit like 6-7 cm (with flex) ...good thing is, that bar is stabile and fest in holle construction, and the table (wood) is actualy sitting on the legs of construction.

gonna report later

maybe alittle late,
but you could just have a small plank that is between hte table and the foots ?

That clamp is the one thing that bring this wheel down. It's utter shite in any configuration. This wheel is meant for permanent mounting, that much is certain.

The pedals are another disadvantage.

I don't think there's anything particularly wrong with the pedals. They're easily the best non-load cell pedals out there, even against these CSP V2's the difference isn't worth the price in the end if you ask me.