this thread is unlike any other thread because it says why NOT to mod your g25. i recently modded my g25 (the stiffer shifter mod) and regret it HUGELY. the site recomended to cut spring about half, i cut it about a quarter, and filled the part i got rid of, with metal. it was un-realistically stiff, warranty void, have to be more careful, click louder, and my sequential doesn't work...i literally can't turn the knob. in the future i will probably mod the pedals so they are inverted, only because it is changing how they are placed, not how they work...feel free to comment.

I've done the inverted pedal mod, and it feels much better. I even measured them out to be the same as my own car when I was mounting them. I'm not much faster like this, but I find it easier for longer stints, as I don't need to keep my left foot rested on the clutch, I can move it to the side and onto the floor.

I've also done the shifter mod, but I started out trying to get rid of the click. I did this by replacing the ball bearing with a plastic one (contrary to popular belief, the spring has nothing to do with the noise, it's the metal BB slotting into the holes that causes the click). It was slightly bigger than the old one though, so it has compressed the spring a little bit more (about 2mm extra), which makes it a bit stiffer.

I'm happy with my mods, and would recommend anyone to do them. I haven't heard of cutting the spring and replacing with solid metal though

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

I've done the inverted pedal mod, and it feels much better. I even measured them out to be the same as my own car when I was mounting them. I'm not much faster like this, but I find it easier for longer stints, as I don't need to keep my left foot rested on the clutch, I can move it to the side and onto the floor.

I've also done the shifter mod, but I started out trying to get rid of the click. I did this by replacing the ball bearing with a plastic one (contrary to popular belief, the spring has nothing to do with the noise, it's the metal BB slotting into the holes that causes the click). It was slightly bigger than the old one though, so it has compressed the spring a little bit more (about 2mm extra), which makes it a bit stiffer.

I'm happy with my mods, and would recommend anyone to do them. I haven't heard of cutting the spring and replacing with solid metal though

with a shorter spring it is spreading the force aplied force among a shorter range, and the metal is so the ball is still in the holes. i take it you used a airsoft bb? i wish i did that.

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

I've done the inverted pedal mod, and it feels much better. I even measured them out to be the same as my own car when I was mounting them.

are you this guy??



thats my plan, once i make my cockpit ofcourse.

Quote from logitekg25 :

with a shorter spring it is spreading the force aplied force among a shorter range, and the metal is so the ball is still in the holes. i take it you used a airsoft bb? i wish i did that.

Yes, a 6mm one. I found it still had a slight click, but I plastered the BB and plate with trailer hub grease afterwards, which silenced it. I might try the shorter spring too, but I'll do it gradually, until I find a realistic setting. It'll probably take years to put it back together each time though, especially trying to screw the plate back in, trying to keep the spring and BB in place. That gave me awful trouble the last time

Quote from logitekg25 :

are you this guy??



thats my plan, once i make my cockpit ofcourse.

No, I mounted mine on a small square of plywood, which I screwed into my desk. I can't move it around, but it's only 6 bolts to release the pedals, and it takes 5 mins to mount them back in the original plastic housing afterwards

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

I might try the shorter spring too, but I'll do it gradually, until I find a realistic setting.

i removed about 4 rounds of the spring, and it added a lot of stress, and too much resistance. try only 1 or 2, but it is really hard to find something to fit in there. if you can melt sufficient solder in there it would work.

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

It'll probably take years to put it back together each time though, especially trying to screw the plate back in, trying to keep the spring and BB in place. That gave me awful trouble the last time

what i did was put it in place where it needed to be, and then either put a dab of grease on the ball so it will stay on the spring, or keep it forced in there compressed so it can't move.

Thanks for the tips. I was thinking of adding in cork, instead of trying to melt in solder. I could cut it out from a wine bottle cork, to the exact diameter needed. I'll try that first, and failing that, I'll break out the soldering iron

The last time I tried putting it back together was around 4AM, which didn't work out. If I did it properly this time I should get it

a cork might be a little too soft, and i think it tapers or gets smaller the deeper you go...i would find a pen spring that is a little stiffer than a normal one, and put that in there, other wise break out a bigger ball bearing. sorry if i sound like an extreme pesimist, but i dont want anybody to end up like i did.

You don't need anything in there. Just add some cable insulation to the spring and ball combo... Makes it stiffer (by the right amount, I'd guess), and silences the BB slotting in the holes.

Oh, logitek, if you can't turn the shifter selector knob, then you have another problem. That cannot be caused by the spring. Probably the metal slots on top are misaligned. They can't move.

Quote from TagForce :

You don't need anything in there. Just add some cable insulation to the spring and ball combo... Makes it stiffer (by the right amount, I'd guess), and silences the BB slotting in the holes.

Oh, logitek, if you can't turn the shifter selector knob, then you have another problem. That cannot be caused by the spring. Probably the metal slots on top are misaligned. They can't move.

first of all, welcome to the thread, and thanks for the advice , but can you please be a little bit more specific about the 'metal slots', i am not quite sure what you mean:dunce:

Quote from logitekg25 :

first of all, welcome to the thread, and thanks for the advice , but can you please be a little bit more specific about the 'metal slots', i am not quite sure what you mean:dunce:

The big knob that you turn to select H-pattern/sequential in effect moves a rather big metal piece over the shifter lever so that it cannot move left/right, while pushing down on it so it won't fall into the 3rd and 4th gear positions.

If you can't turn the knob something must be obstructing the moving metal piece, or the metal piece isn't properly aligned and tries to move to the side or up.

Quote from TagForce :

The big knob that you turn to select H-pattern/sequential in effect moves a rather big metal piece over the shifter lever so that it cannot move left/right, while pushing down on it so it won't fall into the 3rd and 4th gear positions.

If you can't turn the knob something must be obstructing the moving metal piece, or the metal piece isn't properly aligned and tries to move to the side or up.

o.k. thanks for clearing that up. i get it now