I'm strugling to keep my tyres down for westhill, i know of only two methods of saving tyres that definatly work, thats increasing pressures and reducing camber, however correct me if i'm wrong but doesn't decreasing rear negative toe also help to stop the scrubing? also theres adjust how the set behaves so that if the fronts go you increase front grip to stop the scrubing and visa versa for the rears, however looking at other sets for westhill that are for endurance i've noticed different damper settings, very different in fact, is this also a possible solution to saving the tyre life? any others would be great to hear of

Several methods are available:

* Reduce camber (to a point, also likely to make you slower)
* Reduce static toe (zero gives the least scrub in a straight line, however is not necesarily best when cornering)
* Increase Ackermann steering percentage (only affects steered wheels)
* Loosen diffs (to a point, too loose and excess wheelspin will heat the inner tyre more)
* Increase tyre pressures
* Soften suspension - that applies to both springs, (bump) dampers and (possibly) ARBs

Toe settings close to zero will reduce wear. Adjusting your Ackerman (parallel steer) may help the front tires, but this would be limited on Westhill since most of the corners are large radius.

I don't know about dampers. I can see how extreme damper settings could increase wear, so logically the "correct" settings could decrease wear, up to a point.

Diff settings can affect wear, but again this is limited on a fast course like Westhill. Mostly it's the balance between high locking=tires scrub in sharp turns, vs. low locking=one wheel can spin under throttle or lock up under braking. And of course a fully locked diff will have extreme tire wear.

Of course, the biggest thing you can do is change your driving style. Being gentle with the brakes and throttle will have a much greater effect than any of these adjustments.

Without seeing you actual set, that's all I can say. What car are you using?

FZR, atm i have parallel steer set to 100% as, if i undertsand this properly, that will mean that bother inside and outside tyres are turning the same but if it's less then the inside tyre turns more? i'd post the set but competition like DR will steal it knowing the stature of their drivers . I'll try diff settings and soften the bump dampers too

Yes, using less than 100% parallel steering basically means dynamic toe out the more you steer.

Quote from BenjiMC :

FZR, atm i have parallel steer set to 100% as, if i undertsand this properly, that will mean that bother inside and outside tyres are turning the same but if it's less then the inside tyre turns more? i'd post the set but competition like DR will steal it knowing the stature of their drivers . I'll try diff settings and soften the bump dampers too

No we won't!!! I promise!!!111oneoeeleven We don't need cP sets, have some already

If you want to be fast though you will need those optimum camber settings etc. I often race with hotlap or qualifying sets. All I do to keep the tyre temp down is brake a tiny but less hard, turn in less aggresively and use the absolute minimum amount of lock required.

Also, new tyres get very hot after a few laps but that is just a stage of their lifecycle. Keep going and you will find as the rubber gets thinner they cool down a lot. I have set some of my fastest laps with R1 tyres after about 50 laps!

Quote from BenjiMC :

I'm strugling to keep my tyres down for westhill, i know of only two methods of saving tyres that definatly work, thats increasing pressures and reducing camber, however correct me if i'm wrong but doesn't decreasing rear negative toe also help to stop the scrubing? also theres adjust how the set behaves so that if the fronts go you increase front grip to stop the scrubing and visa versa for the rears, however looking at other sets for westhill that are for endurance i've noticed different damper settings, very different in fact, is this also a possible solution to saving the tyre life? any others would be great to hear of

Just a quicky but are you talking about front or rears wearing - or all?

the reason i say this is, when we were there in a league meeting the biggest factor in saving your drive wheels was throttle control..
if you had throttle control your tyres would last, if you were a 0 or 100% throttle man your tyres could be ruined after literally a few laps..

Also important: NEVER never ever no no bad boy don't touch the grass/dirt. We've found out that this leads to more sliding immediately, causing a massive increase of tyre temps in the next few corners.

greetz

der butz

About tire temps at Westhill. Westhill in the FZR is one of my favorites. It is also the hardest on tire temps by far for me. I ran hour long races in the FZR with R2's without a problem in many other tracks. I overheat R2's in the matter of 2 laps at Westhill. I use R3's at westhill even in 5 lappers. All other tracks, like I said, I've run hour long races with R2's Of course, mandatory 1 pit with those hour races, which I would do in the middle. But from practice, I know I could have used R2's for the entire hour long run.

i've sorted it out by adjusting the bump to a lower setting now, still on R2's, the problem was that on low fuel the weight shift was all wrong and then you get oversteer causing the rears to slide and heat up, so now what i did was adjust the anti roll aswell as the bump to compensate and drop the springs a little, still not done a full fuel run on it but i'm confident it'll last, plus a 1'32 on 100 fuel after 2 laps aint bad on the new patch, not to mention i'm a newb with the wheel. Thanks for the help guys.