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Logitech Pedals, some advice
(130 posts, started )
Quote from Cropsy :I got my pedals back this morning, and just had a few laps around Ashton and they seem to be working fine, they actually feel better than they did when they were brand new. Good job Shaun, thanks again.

Your Very Welcome Cropsy.

Fordman
Logitech Expert
anybody know if it's possible to use two sets of DFP pedals with 1 wheel? i can't figure out what this connector is...
Sorry for bringing up an old thread but im browsing whilst the game downloads.

I have absolutely no idea what your going on about, will i find this out once i start playing or after a while from having the wheel?

Installing now see you on the track (or in my case gravel, grass, wall etc)

Edit, Momo Racing is my wheel
It's a issue with logitech's pedals. There are two potentiometers inside pedals which detect throttle and brake pedal's movements. They may move a little bit sideways causing miscalibration and gas/brake being whole time little on or not reaching their maximum's. Something like that, sure there is someone correcting me in a half an hour, but you got the point, right?
I guess you have a new wheel. In that case pedals won't probably cause any problems, because they should be newer revision, in which these issues have been fixed from what I've heard.
righto, got ya thanks

Dont know if you can tell what version mine will be but heres the sticker info underneath

P/N 863203-1000
PID YE5462
Quote from [PTG]Chef_uk :righto, got ya thanks

Dont know if you can tell what version mine will be but heres the sticker info underneath

P/N 863203-1000
PID YE5462

Sorry I am never that good on Part Numbers, but I think all MOMO pedals use the Plastic Pots. As well as my fix ( taken from another site ) with regards to the taping and then my added Blue Tack trick ( which works a damn treat ) there is another guide that I will add shortly. This will consist of actually taking the Pot apart and cleaning it and re-gluing it, as this will fix your problems, but only can be done once. After that, its new pots I am afriad.

I have been contacted, and the replacement Pots do work, and work like brand new ( I brought some spares when in the US last year ) so I can personally vouche for Digikey as well as P1lot, as I got him some also

Regards

Fordie
Logitech Expert
All these posts make me scared, I just bought DFP ( about month ago ) and now I am affraid it will brake soon
Same here i just ordered my DFP and now all of this is making me scared, tho i have to say my team mate has done over 40.000km in lfs with the DFP in about 1 year and he hasn't got a single probleme, so KeMoT there's still hope
I know there is.
I had old MOMO force ( red one ) before DFP and I had no any problems with it in spite it had its age.
Let's pray for the same
Well my pedals went and as far as I could understand from the nice man at logitech he is sending me a whole new wheel :o Problem is I couldn't understand a word he was saying so when he started reading out the address to send the wires back to I ended up with this :o

Logitech Europe
SARAELFA
Customer Service
The RMA number
Mpulin du choc
CH112 2 Rome Oscar Mike Alpha November el sur movges
Switzerland

Which looks all wrong Hopefully they will include the address but it seems such a waste to chop the wires off my current wheel and pedals

Anyone got the address, I was going around in circles trying to get the address out of the guy. English wasn't his native language and he kept reading it out like Lemon Orange Internet when he meant L for Lemon etc so he just confused the hell out of me.

Keiran
All I can suggest ( don't have this wheel ) is that you disconnect it from the PC, and then re-connect it, and recalibrate it in Windows and in LFS. Once you have calibrated it in LFS, click on Calibration lock and try this.
Anyone know of a site that I could just buy new pedals for my momo racing wheel (black). I had the spiking issue and took it appart and put it back together and now they don't respond. I think I just want to cut my losses and just buy new pedal's.
Quote from Dopey :Anyone know of a site that I could just buy new pedals for my momo racing wheel (black). I had the spiking issue and took it appart and put it back together and now they don't respond. I think I just want to cut my losses and just buy new pedal's.

You will need to contact Logi for that. They are usually pretty good.

@justhim Try downloading the latest drivers from http://www.wingmanteam.com/lat ... ware/latest_soft_main.htm as this does seems to match the "Loss of Calibration Effect" problem that some Wheels and pedals Suffer.
I have the 90% throttle issue with my Momo pedals. I recently took the pedals apart to take a look at the problem. What a bunch of plastic crap. Absolute junk. The cheap plastic potentiometers are loosely stuck into little plastic slots. The pedal "bearings" are plastic on plastic with a bunch of grease shot in to collect prodigious amounts of dust and hair. What a mess. I just became aware of my throttle limitation problem, but I suspect it's been present for a long time, perhaps from the beginning.

I am considering the ECCI pedals but I am waiting for reviews of the new Logitech system in October. If that is also junk, I will simply go with an entire ECCI system. Force feedback is certainly nice, but not with the ultra notchy feel of the Momo. I have it set so low to allow smooth steering I might as well not even have FF turned on!

Hopefully the new Logitech wheel and pedals will be done right. We shall see.
I have had my Logitech formula force GP wheel and pedal set since they first came out. And they are still going!!! Like the day i bought them....almost. A little up and down movement from the wheel, but that's about it!! I have gone through many sims from lfs, TOCA series, NFS just to mention a few.

Am i just very lucky?? I have no idea, but they are used on average 4 hrs a day every day!!
#66 - Gunn
Logitech don't sell components like pedals seperately, but they will replace them if they are faulty.
I've got a logitech MOMO Black. I've had it for about 10 months and have done over 20k in LFS mileage.

On Saturday I began to get a problem with the brake pedal. This problem had been occurring occasionally over the last few months but had just got much worse. The first time it happened I didn't even notice until someone pointed out the my brake lights were on all the time. It seems the brakes were coming on occassionally even though I wasn't using them. Now the problem was happening pretty much at least once every lap!

So, I decided to investigate. I took the pedals unit apart and could see the potentiometers on the end of the pedal axles. I plugged the unit in and moved the pedals. I found that the runners that the axles, or the axles themselves had warn slightly. This was allowing a bit of movement forward and back of the axles. I noticed that this movement can be caused by putting pressure on the sides of the pedals. This was causing the brake pedal potentiometer to move slightly giving a small signal that the brakes were on.

I also noticed that as I moved the potentiometers, a signal was produced. So, I moved the potentiometers as far back (so they produced no signal) as possible, put the pedal unit back together and bish-bash-bosh, job done, pedals fixed. No new potentiometers needed.

Just thought I'd share this as I'm sure others will have had the same problem.
#68 - Gunn
The pedal "axles" are tapered on one end allowing movement, it's an odd design but they must have had a reason for it.
With the movement you can actually push the pedal too far and the potentiometer slips out of its little pocket. This makes it operate ineffectively and often you get spiking near the top of the range or you don't get the full range at all. The autocalibrating nature of the device can then report a false centre and you might end up with a little brake always on, or a little bit of throttle.

Although your operation has fixed your problem, I fear it is only a temporary respite. A more permanent fix requires some method of stopping the pots from lifting out of their pocket/receptacle. There's a dozen ways of doing that, but it is important not to glue the pot or attach it too solidy or it will eventually snap.
Perhaps the best solution I've heard is to cut small cubes of foam rubber (you could use a new kitchen sponge or something inexpensive like that) that fit snug inside the pot's little pocket. Stick the pot into the foam cube so that it can hardly move, a little movement is ok, we are just trying to keep it from lifting out. If you've done the job right it should last a long time.
You could address the axle problem while you are there, clean off the lubricant and use thick tape to reduce the amount of play around the pedal shaft (axle).
If you want to service the pots spray (blast them!) with contact cleaner only (available from your electronics store), don't use automotive or engineering degreasers, sprays or lubricants.

My first set of Momo pedals completed almost 50 000 LFS miles, not to mention other games that I used them in. But many repair jobs were required.
Quote from Gentlefoot :I've got a logitech MOMO Black. I've had it for about 10 months and have done over 20k in LFS mileage.

On Saturday I began to get a problem with the brake pedal. This problem had been occurring occasionally over the last few months but had just got much worse. The first time it happened I didn't even notice until someone pointed out the my brake lights were on all the time. It seems the brakes were coming on occassionally even though I wasn't using them. Now the problem was happening pretty much at least once every lap!

So, I decided to investigate. I took the pedals unit apart and could see the potentiometers on the end of the pedal axles. I plugged the unit in and moved the pedals. I found that the runners that the axles, or the axles themselves had warn slightly. This was allowing a bit of movement forward and back of the axles. I noticed that this movement can be caused by putting pressure on the sides of the pedals. This was causing the brake pedal potentiometer to move slightly giving a small signal that the brakes were on.

I also noticed that as I moved the potentiometers, a signal was produced. So, I moved the potentiometers as far back (so they produced no signal) as possible, put the pedal unit back together and bish-bash-bosh, job done, pedals fixed. No new potentiometers needed.

Just thought I'd share this as I'm sure others will have had the same problem.

hay Gentlefoot, you seen my fix using bluetack? It works a treat, and still going strong, almost 1yr now, no repairs.

Here's the link. http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=49757#post49757
Well, I've only done about 300 laps since I fixed the problem but it hasn't re-occurred.

I thought about wrapping some tape round the pedal axles as Gunn suggested but I thought I'd try without first. OK so far.

As for the sponge to help locate the potentiometer - what a cool idea - might try that if the problem re-occurs.

Hey Fordy, didn't see your blu-tac fix but I guess it's the same as the sponge thing. Will bare in mind for future breakages.
Quote from Gentlefoot :Well, I've only done about 300 laps since I fixed the problem but it hasn't re-occurred.

I thought about wrapping some tape round the pedal axles as Gunn suggested but I thought I'd try without first. OK so far.

As for the sponge to help locate the potentiometer - what a cool idea - might try that if the problem re-occurs.

Hey Fordy, didn't see your blu-tac fix but I guess it's the same as the sponge thing. Will bare in mind for future breakages.

The only problem I can see with the sponge fix, is that because the sponge is under pressure, it might "spring" out. With the Blue Tack, you make it sticky, and it doesn't move, if you put enough in there.
#72 - Gunn
In one of my sets I currently use a few small pieces of masking tape folded around the peg on the bottom of the pot. I pushed it in gently and it's been good ever since, but I know the tape will degrade eventually.
Hey,

I've been having the gas/brake problem on my DFP PRO for a while now. I actually haven't used my wheel in about a month, because it's too frustrating to do a race when the pedals go whacky within a few laps.

I bought the DFP back in May at CompUSA and got the 2-year replacement plan. I just recently went back to that store and saw that they only carry one wheel now (something cheap like madcatz or something), so if I did go back to exchange this, I don't think they would have a DFP PRO for me. My guess is they would only be able to give me store credit. Even if they do the exchange, I only get one exchange per replacement plan, so if the new pedals were to break on me a few months down the line, I would have to pay for another replacement plan. Now, if they were to carry the G25 sometime soon, I could pay the difference and upgrade to that, but I seriously doubt they would ever carry that product.

If I contact Logitech, are they still sending out new pedals or complete wheel w/pedals? Do you actually have to cut the wires off and mail them to logitech before they send new hardware?

Right now there is no reason for me to open up the pedals, because I'm still under warranty, so I just need to figure out what I should do. Any advice?
#74 - Gunn
Quote from Rg7621 :

If I contact Logitech, are they still sending out new pedals or complete wheel w/pedals? Do you actually have to cut the wires off and mail them to logitech before they send new hardware?


Logitech will send new pedals and they will be the newer revision2 pedals for the DFP which don't suffer from the same problems. Most of the time they don't ask for the old pedals or anything to be cut off. If your wheel is faulty they will replace the entire unit. If you are under warranty, certainly approach Logitech.
Thanks,

I called them today and they will take care of it. It turns out my wheel/pedals are about 3 years old, but I just bought it from the store 5 months ago. My manual say REV B., but hopefully I will get the newest set when they send it.

Logitech Pedals, some advice
(130 posts, started )
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