I wish you a quick recovery.
I couldn't find my setupfield pack but I searched on the web and found this setup pack in this lithuanian sitehttp://lfs.lt-global.eu/foruma ... setup-pack-jums-mielieji/, I looked inside the .rar file and I found there was setups for all cars, it contains 4500+ setups. I think it contains all setupfield setups because I saw some setups in the archive I remember downloading from setupfield. The forum post in the link is from December 2014, so it's still recent.
I'd like to attach the file here in case the download link dies but I have no clue how.
I'd like to attach the file here in case the download link dies but I have no clue how.
Last edited by drugsexcaramelo, .
I think I do, but I'm not sure it contains the latest setups nor the other LFS versions setups. I'm gonna check for it when I get home.
Hi Anici, congrats on your 1:32.81, damn it, you got so fast. Now try that sh*tty XRG and get that 1:32.3x...
Congrats to you as well, Rotaryman, you did 1:33.92.
Same as Anici, I only watched your 1:34.17 lap. But I suppose that this advice still applies because I suppose that your theoretical PB didn't change much (?). About a safe/easier/softer setup, I have no doubt that you can go under 1:34. The real doubt is that if it's able to do 1:33.0x or under. I think top players are so used to their setups that giving them an easier/safer one will make the opposite job than intended.
I think that you can reach 1:33.5x-6x in 1-2 weeks if you drive daily and you try to correct yourself what you think you're doing wrong. Focus on steering, it's most the important thing in time attack. That's why Mouse can keep up with Wheel and Keyboard can't. Don't try to fix your pedal work, because at this stage you're at right now, it's not gonna be as useful as if you try to improve your steering. Leave pedal work only when you reach your limits and those of the car and you're chasing that 0.1s others have over you.
For now, try to improve your racing line. If you master your racing line, implementing speed will be easier to do. If you have the best racing line, you are using the maximum of the track, which means that you can go at the fastest speed(if your pedal work can keep up). But you're not yet at that level. Try to drive the track at slower pace than your race pace, you can maybe notice a line which you can take without using a lot of steering, because the line that uses the least steering, maximum track, highest average speed and straightest corner exits is the fastest line(theoretically). So let off speed for now and try to learn the track in a different way, you can find a faster line, better reference points which will all help you in the end, if this works. So, increasing speed can become easier because you have the best line and the reference points(where to turn mostly). Focus on improving your steering input and racing line now, then try to improve your pedal work. For the best racing lines or at least to have an idea, I suggest you download a couple of hotlaps from LFS. Download one of 1:33.8x, then one of 1:33.6x, then one of 1:33.3x, then one of 1:33,0x, then one of 1:32.xx, watch those laps in chase cam, then watch them from inside(your driving cam). You can probably notice in those replays why they're not as fast as the faster laps, and what you notice is what you should try to correct, because it's probable that you are making the same mistakes. To sum it up, try to improve your racing line, then your pedal work. I advise you to not be too obsessed by driving, therefore, waste a bit of time to analyse replays. You can learn a lot watching them. Good luck, you're close to your goal. Hope I helped.
Congrats to you as well, Rotaryman, you did 1:33.92.
Same as Anici, I only watched your 1:34.17 lap. But I suppose that this advice still applies because I suppose that your theoretical PB didn't change much (?). About a safe/easier/softer setup, I have no doubt that you can go under 1:34. The real doubt is that if it's able to do 1:33.0x or under. I think top players are so used to their setups that giving them an easier/safer one will make the opposite job than intended.
I think that you can reach 1:33.5x-6x in 1-2 weeks if you drive daily and you try to correct yourself what you think you're doing wrong. Focus on steering, it's most the important thing in time attack. That's why Mouse can keep up with Wheel and Keyboard can't. Don't try to fix your pedal work, because at this stage you're at right now, it's not gonna be as useful as if you try to improve your steering. Leave pedal work only when you reach your limits and those of the car and you're chasing that 0.1s others have over you.
For now, try to improve your racing line. If you master your racing line, implementing speed will be easier to do. If you have the best racing line, you are using the maximum of the track, which means that you can go at the fastest speed(if your pedal work can keep up). But you're not yet at that level. Try to drive the track at slower pace than your race pace, you can maybe notice a line which you can take without using a lot of steering, because the line that uses the least steering, maximum track, highest average speed and straightest corner exits is the fastest line(theoretically). So let off speed for now and try to learn the track in a different way, you can find a faster line, better reference points which will all help you in the end, if this works. So, increasing speed can become easier because you have the best line and the reference points(where to turn mostly). Focus on improving your steering input and racing line now, then try to improve your pedal work. For the best racing lines or at least to have an idea, I suggest you download a couple of hotlaps from LFS. Download one of 1:33.8x, then one of 1:33.6x, then one of 1:33.3x, then one of 1:33,0x, then one of 1:32.xx, watch those laps in chase cam, then watch them from inside(your driving cam). You can probably notice in those replays why they're not as fast as the faster laps, and what you notice is what you should try to correct, because it's probable that you are making the same mistakes. To sum it up, try to improve your racing line, then your pedal work. I advise you to not be too obsessed by driving, therefore, waste a bit of time to analyse replays. You can learn a lot watching them. Good luck, you're close to your goal. Hope I helped.
Last edited by drugsexcaramelo, .
A reason that it probably feels more stable from going from +0.1 to 0.0 of rear toe is that through a corner, maximum grip/speed is best attained when the tires are not going against each other to create a stabilizing force. Normally, toe is used to make stable entry or exit, it's effect is less significant mid cornering, I think. So I supppse, your car is now easier to drive through corners especially on the entry, as well as on the exit. Now, it should understeer less on entry. So, no understeer to fight in mid corner which leads to no overcorrection that will result a sudden snap oversteer on the exit. Although, this is just a thought. The best way to solve a handling problem is to know the cause. Fixing the symptoms will eventually make up other problems. Racing is all about physics and the fastest setup is the one that uses the tires to their max potential for the time they have before wearing out. Also, try to lower your tire pressures to around 195 kPa for the front and 205 kPa for the rear. It can be more easier to control the car because the tire response time will be lagged a little bit. Good luck for breaking the 33 s barrier.
Last edited by drugsexcaramelo, .
It's not working here.
You can view the website but you can't download.
http://web.archive.org/web/20140813102300/http://setupfield.teaminferno.hu/
Hopefully someone who downloaded the setup pack will upload it for us.
You can view the website but you can't download.
http://web.archive.org/web/20140813102300/http://setupfield.teaminferno.hu/
Hopefully someone who downloaded the setup pack will upload it for us.
Last edited by drugsexcaramelo, .
Hi, that is not a bad lap time, but I understand your worry as we see today that the average player manages at least 1:34.0x-1:33.9x.
I watched the replay and it looks to me that you're not fully using the track width. If you look at top replays (1:32.xx), you'd notice that not a single centimeter is left out.
It also appears to me that you're not going very fast in the corners, even if you took the right brake points as other fast people, but because you lose some momentum in some corners, the result is that the optimal brake point is a bit farther than that of other fast guys, because you came out of the last turn a bit slower, except for the long straight corner, which is irrelevant because the car will reach the same top speed at +/- 1 kmph because the car would have run out of acceleration.
So have your setup checked. I think you're losing (not having a good) speed because you're not using the full width, because you're sliding, because you're off the ideal line sometimes, because you're not accelerating early enough, and because you're in hot lap mode and you didn't set your tire temperatures for 6 laps. If you want to do a hot lap, you must set your tire temperatures to be optimal (at 50°C) when you reach the half of the course and put the fuel to 2%. If you want to do 6 laps and hope that you get a good lap, then, it's better to do in Single Player mode or set tire temperatures to cold (at 30°C).
Download, fast replays and watch them, then watch your best lap, and see how different they are, where you're not as fast, and think how you can be as fast, of course, this won't get you to break the WR, but hopefully can be enough to help you reach your goal easier.
Also, I believe that you should try to modify your current setup. Make a copy of the original and try to play with the toe settings, this can help you reduce your sudden sliding that you didn't expect. Playing with other settings without knowing what they do can make the set worse. But MAYBE, try to reduce front anti-roll bars (40 N/mm) to the point the car feels a bit like a boat, maybe it will be more predictable, but less faster than top setups. Just try this once, a setup like this will only determine if your problem is feeling the car correctly. If you've felt the car correctly, I think that at the numerous occasions that your car drifted, you should have counter steered early, which makes me think that you didn't expect the drift to happen because you haven't felt that the car would drift. This setup is supposed to be forgivable, and maybe because it's forgivable, you can see that you may be doing somethings that are be useless or even wrong but since the set is forgivable, the consequences are less serious, if you don't see that, then delete the set, because I just thought this up and I haven't really tested it, but the point is to make the car behave almost like a street car (with a lot of body roll) which tends to be more forgivable, but more slow and they don't need a World Champion to be driven to the limit without breaking it. So I suppose that, maybe because a set is a bit more forgiving, it can help you spot mistakes or wrong patterns in your driving with more ease.
If that doesn't help, because I'm not sure it's any useful or helpful to do that, you can try asking people for a setup and try them until you find one you like and you are fast with.
Also, practice is the best way to improve, no one is born blessed with god-like driving. I was a noob as well and now I got where most people are still behind. My PB in XFG is 1:33.16, I feel like I can improve it if I try hard enough. In XRG, it's at 1:32.68, I also feel like I can improve it because my theoretical bests are much faster by at least 0.1s. But I know that you're not looking for tenths but seconds, and for that, you must practice more. Before I did 1:33 and 1:32, I was doing 1:38 and 1:36... I slowly improved to become this fast and that didn't happen in a day or a week.
I'm gonna tell you a method that I use to improve fast on a given track : Watch the WR replay, Memorize the line in the head, Note the brake and acceleration points as well as shift points and gears through corners, then reproduce it. Still not faster? Watch WR. Watch yours. Note the major differences and think how you can fix them. Try again. Still not faster? Watch WR. Watch yours. Note the differences and fix them. Try again... etc. It's not your join date that will determine your overall speed but mostly your lap count and experience. Being younger can help learn faster, but I have seen old people do very fast laps (Rentner).
So, I summarize what you may need to improve to be faster:
-Your racing line is not optimal. (Be close the edge when you brake and very close to the apex when you accelerate)
-Be smoother and feel the car to be able to predict how it will drive with at least 80% precision. (Enable force feedback and if you suddenly don't feel the force feedback when you're going in a corner, it can mean you're sliding)
-Brake when it's time and brake full power almost everywhere. (As a mouse user, I can't choose how much brake force I can apply but I'm still fast and I barely lock the tires except in T1 where the front is becomes suddenly lighter because of the hill. I use heel and toe to minimize tire lock effect in T1, some people reduce brake force at the cost of other braking zones. For wheel, I hear people have 560 - 650 nm, I don't like weak brakes because other sectors are slower, but you can fully press the brakes without a problem as long as you do it at the right moment. With 650nm, there is no chance for me to go through T1 without locking. Fast people with 650 nm when they brake have their throttle almost fully open, even with this force they manage good times even in sector 1. It's counter intuitive, so try around 560-600 nm.)
-Accelerate when it's time. (Most of the time it's just 1-5 meters away before the apex. Since you have pedals, you can accelerate quite earlier than mouse, I would have to tap the accelerator, but you must press it progressively and smoothly and when you reach the apex you should be at 100% throttle.)
-And most importantly, give yourself enough time. (Most people who do a fresh start have to go through many laps to reach that level. At 2000 laps, it's still not enough. If you look to be 1 second faster than 1:34.64, then around another 1000 laps can do it, in my opinion, you should be able to do it in less than 500, but everyone is different.)
Sorry for long post. I hope this helps. And if this is confusing instead of helping, zap it out of your memory.
I watched the replay and it looks to me that you're not fully using the track width. If you look at top replays (1:32.xx), you'd notice that not a single centimeter is left out.
It also appears to me that you're not going very fast in the corners, even if you took the right brake points as other fast people, but because you lose some momentum in some corners, the result is that the optimal brake point is a bit farther than that of other fast guys, because you came out of the last turn a bit slower, except for the long straight corner, which is irrelevant because the car will reach the same top speed at +/- 1 kmph because the car would have run out of acceleration.
So have your setup checked. I think you're losing (not having a good) speed because you're not using the full width, because you're sliding, because you're off the ideal line sometimes, because you're not accelerating early enough, and because you're in hot lap mode and you didn't set your tire temperatures for 6 laps. If you want to do a hot lap, you must set your tire temperatures to be optimal (at 50°C) when you reach the half of the course and put the fuel to 2%. If you want to do 6 laps and hope that you get a good lap, then, it's better to do in Single Player mode or set tire temperatures to cold (at 30°C).
Download, fast replays and watch them, then watch your best lap, and see how different they are, where you're not as fast, and think how you can be as fast, of course, this won't get you to break the WR, but hopefully can be enough to help you reach your goal easier.
Also, I believe that you should try to modify your current setup. Make a copy of the original and try to play with the toe settings, this can help you reduce your sudden sliding that you didn't expect. Playing with other settings without knowing what they do can make the set worse. But MAYBE, try to reduce front anti-roll bars (40 N/mm) to the point the car feels a bit like a boat, maybe it will be more predictable, but less faster than top setups. Just try this once, a setup like this will only determine if your problem is feeling the car correctly. If you've felt the car correctly, I think that at the numerous occasions that your car drifted, you should have counter steered early, which makes me think that you didn't expect the drift to happen because you haven't felt that the car would drift. This setup is supposed to be forgivable, and maybe because it's forgivable, you can see that you may be doing somethings that are be useless or even wrong but since the set is forgivable, the consequences are less serious, if you don't see that, then delete the set, because I just thought this up and I haven't really tested it, but the point is to make the car behave almost like a street car (with a lot of body roll) which tends to be more forgivable, but more slow and they don't need a World Champion to be driven to the limit without breaking it. So I suppose that, maybe because a set is a bit more forgiving, it can help you spot mistakes or wrong patterns in your driving with more ease.
If that doesn't help, because I'm not sure it's any useful or helpful to do that, you can try asking people for a setup and try them until you find one you like and you are fast with.
Also, practice is the best way to improve, no one is born blessed with god-like driving. I was a noob as well and now I got where most people are still behind. My PB in XFG is 1:33.16, I feel like I can improve it if I try hard enough. In XRG, it's at 1:32.68, I also feel like I can improve it because my theoretical bests are much faster by at least 0.1s. But I know that you're not looking for tenths but seconds, and for that, you must practice more. Before I did 1:33 and 1:32, I was doing 1:38 and 1:36... I slowly improved to become this fast and that didn't happen in a day or a week.
I'm gonna tell you a method that I use to improve fast on a given track : Watch the WR replay, Memorize the line in the head, Note the brake and acceleration points as well as shift points and gears through corners, then reproduce it. Still not faster? Watch WR. Watch yours. Note the major differences and think how you can fix them. Try again. Still not faster? Watch WR. Watch yours. Note the differences and fix them. Try again... etc. It's not your join date that will determine your overall speed but mostly your lap count and experience. Being younger can help learn faster, but I have seen old people do very fast laps (Rentner).
So, I summarize what you may need to improve to be faster:
-Your racing line is not optimal. (Be close the edge when you brake and very close to the apex when you accelerate)
-Be smoother and feel the car to be able to predict how it will drive with at least 80% precision. (Enable force feedback and if you suddenly don't feel the force feedback when you're going in a corner, it can mean you're sliding)
-Brake when it's time and brake full power almost everywhere. (As a mouse user, I can't choose how much brake force I can apply but I'm still fast and I barely lock the tires except in T1 where the front is becomes suddenly lighter because of the hill. I use heel and toe to minimize tire lock effect in T1, some people reduce brake force at the cost of other braking zones. For wheel, I hear people have 560 - 650 nm, I don't like weak brakes because other sectors are slower, but you can fully press the brakes without a problem as long as you do it at the right moment. With 650nm, there is no chance for me to go through T1 without locking. Fast people with 650 nm when they brake have their throttle almost fully open, even with this force they manage good times even in sector 1. It's counter intuitive, so try around 560-600 nm.)
-Accelerate when it's time. (Most of the time it's just 1-5 meters away before the apex. Since you have pedals, you can accelerate quite earlier than mouse, I would have to tap the accelerator, but you must press it progressively and smoothly and when you reach the apex you should be at 100% throttle.)
-And most importantly, give yourself enough time. (Most people who do a fresh start have to go through many laps to reach that level. At 2000 laps, it's still not enough. If you look to be 1 second faster than 1:34.64, then around another 1000 laps can do it, in my opinion, you should be able to do it in less than 500, but everyone is different.)
Sorry for long post. I hope this helps. And if this is confusing instead of helping, zap it out of your memory.
Good luck for the future.
thank you very much! it looks awesome! can you try with desert or urban pattern?? thanks
Last edited by drugsexcaramelo, .
Camo skin for xrg or xfg
can anyone make a camo skin for xrg or xfg.
i want one that ressembles this car. thanks.
i want one that ressembles this car. thanks.
4 months have passed.... wazzap!!!!
Street Tuning Evolution
I, along with many people, have dreamed of a game like this. You do everything to the car just like you want it. You build the car of your dreams from A to Z, then race it, drift it, show off with it, cruise it, crash it(if you want), repair it(if you want), sell it(if you want) and/or keep it as a hunting trophee(if you want).
TRAILER:
Remember Street Legal Racing a.k.a. SLRR?
This game is made by the same people (Invictus Games Ltd. est. in 2000), and it will have more features than the old game from 2003 (SLRR).
Invictus Games Ltd. have developed many successful games in short deadlines before:
-Heat Online (2010)
-Project Torque (Level R in Japan/Europe) (2008)
-Cross Racing Championship 2005 (2005)
-Street Legal (2002)
-1nsane (2001)
and many more...
To develop the game to it's full potential:
FEATURES:
-Online multiplayer
-Full Modding support
-Unreal Engine 4 graphics
-Invictus physics engine (~15 years old of developement and refining)
-Individual part simulation
-Full car customization
-Individual part tuning
-Open world free roam environment
and more...
Some in-game screeshots (GARAGE):
Gameplay videos (GARAGE):
If you have money to waste, I advise you to pay for this instead.
For 15$, you pre-order the retail game for April 2016.
For 25$, you get beta-access.
For 50$, your get alpha early-access.
Please! Don't wait if you want to play this one day.
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/street-tuning-evolution-car-building-racing
If you have questions ask them here or leave a comment at the Indiegogo campaign.
If you have more questions visit the forum at http://www.streettuningmods.com where they will be hopefully answered.
TRAILER:
Remember Street Legal Racing a.k.a. SLRR?
This game is made by the same people (Invictus Games Ltd. est. in 2000), and it will have more features than the old game from 2003 (SLRR).
Invictus Games Ltd. have developed many successful games in short deadlines before:
-Heat Online (2010)
-Project Torque (Level R in Japan/Europe) (2008)
-Cross Racing Championship 2005 (2005)
-Street Legal (2002)
-1nsane (2001)
and many more...
To develop the game to it's full potential:
FEATURES:
-Online multiplayer
-Full Modding support
-Unreal Engine 4 graphics
-Invictus physics engine (~15 years old of developement and refining)
-Individual part simulation
-Full car customization
-Individual part tuning
-Open world free roam environment
and more...
Some in-game screeshots (GARAGE):
Gameplay videos (GARAGE):
If you have money to waste, I advise you to pay for this instead.
For 15$, you pre-order the retail game for April 2016.
For 25$, you get beta-access.
For 50$, your get alpha early-access.
Please! Don't wait if you want to play this one day.
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/street-tuning-evolution-car-building-racing
If you have questions ask them here or leave a comment at the Indiegogo campaign.
If you have more questions visit the forum at http://www.streettuningmods.com where they will be hopefully answered.
Camber help?
I wanna know how camber affects grip because i want to find a good compromise in braking and cornering as well as tire life and laptime. 
any help? its for the XRG by the way. answer if you can please. Dont worry about being wrong. Everyone is at one point of his life.
any help? its for the XRG by the way. answer if you can please. Dont worry about being wrong. Everyone is at one point of his life. This is the way you contribute to the community? Your 1000 posts resume to this type of bullshit? Unseen please shut up, you aren't sober, one more beer and it's the hangover. The best thing in your post is bullshit, but there is worse than that in it. You're not the police to act like you are, you're no one to allow or disallow someone to be in this "community", saying shit about someone will get someone else to say shit about you. You're just a narcissic vermine who's got nothing better to say other than big shit about himself (high quality skinz and texs lol perfect englishe, who told you it was like that? so naive...) Please dude, if you haven't seen yourself from a third eye, do it as soon as you can, because it's not the way you're thinking it goes it does, you're not getting the wanted reaction, because you don't act the way you imagined it. You picture yourself like you were a Che? getting what you asked for in milliseconds? nope dude... picture yourself like you are a bum who can waste a whole day begging for money but he'll only get 1% success, this is exactly you, like the bum is too weak to change society's mind, you're just as weak to be able to change the demo community's mind. I also don't say anything about your genius yet(maybe you're afraid that people know how old you are and still act a fool that you hide your stats?).
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG