The online racing simulator
Is the clutch being worked on?
(61 posts, started )
Err, if I understand you correctly, this is exactly what my suggestion does. The clutch ingame is fully depressed earlier than the physical pedal, so you don't have to press it down 100% to get a working shift ingame. The last few cm of pedal travel are deadzone (you press the clutch down half and ingame it already registers as 100%, any more pushing does nothing).
Wow.. after watching that replay, I *need* a clutch pedal...

Is there anywhere that sells 3-pedal sets on their own, without the wheel? I already have a DFP, and aren't that bothered about an H-shifter so I don't really want to buy an entire G25 set.
Quote from Crashgate3 :Wow.. after watching that replay, I *need* a clutch pedal...

Is there anywhere that sells 3-pedal sets on their own, without the wheel? I already have a DFP, and aren't that bothered about an H-shifter so I don't really want to buy an entire G25 set.

You might try getting an extra pedal set (I use Formula GP's one) and use it, AFAIK that wheel will cost about 10 pounds...
Quote from Ball Bearing Turbo :Eric, Android is right my friend, I can use the clutch slip to launch any car perfectly, including the turbos. In fact, before the clutch heat coming in this patch, I would use it to build boost without bouncing off the limiter like a nutcase. I've used the slip to get perfect launches with the FZ50, with progressively less slip over about 3 seconds keeping the tires close to optimum long slip just by sound, and holding the engine at a given RPM just using the clutch. If anything, there's probably TOO wide a variance of slip over the range of pedal travel... That's probably OK though since we have no butt feel. Not sure what's happening over on your end, but something is sure wrong.

Well, I will try it again when I get home. I did try doing this multiple times. There is nothing wrong with my clutch pedal hardware. It is smooth and continuous with plenty of travel (ECCI). You did this with Auto clutch turned off, right?

If feathering is there, then it is a very, very short range. This might be accurate for full on race cars, but not for the street cars.

I will have a go when I get home and if I am wrong, I will happily eat my words.
Quote from Crashgate3 :Wow.. after watching that replay, I *need* a clutch pedal...

Is there anywhere that sells 3-pedal sets on their own, without the wheel? I already have a DFP, and aren't that bothered about an H-shifter so I don't really want to buy an entire G25 set.

When I tried a G25 few month ago I decided that somehow I will get a clutch pedal (I have DFP). I had no money so buying anything was out of question. I used my old gameport joystick's electronics and one potentiometer and built the pedal from Technic Lego . Lego can be surprisingly strong and the pedal I made works flawlessly in LFS.
Quote from Hallen :You did this with Auto clutch turned off, right?

GASP

I can't beleive you'd entertain the thought that autoclutch has ever been enabled on my LFS install!

I'm hurt, wounded, and heartbroken. hmph!

(but yes, it's off....)


Quote :If feathering is there, then it is a very, very short range. This might be accurate for full on race cars, but not for the street cars.

That's just the thing, it's almost got TOO much of a range even as it is, which is why I'm bewildered. Have you been hanging out with Shotglass?


Quote :I will have a go when I get home and if I am wrong, I will happily eat my words.

Don't forget the pepper!

Maybe you could upload a replay as well if you're still unsatisfied upon further testing?
No, the issue is if i bring it up to like 2k, and i slowly slip the clutch even, the motor dies(wish it would stall lol) but in a realistic sense, ive only driven a stick twice, the spot for most cares isnt 5k rpm...
Engines will have more inertia in the patch, which will probably solve that issue. I can pull away at 2K easily in LFS, but it takes more throttle than it seems like it should, at least a little.

What car are you talking about BTW?
android, i have a g25 and tried to do calibration as you stated. After setting up the wheel, gas, brake, etc. Do you press the clutch a little, then click on the clutch setting and select the axis to finalize it?
Nevermind, I figured it out.
#35 - Woz
Quote from AndroidXP :Err, if I understand you correctly, this is exactly what my suggestion does. The clutch ingame is fully depressed earlier than the physical pedal, so you don't have to press it down 100% to get a working shift ingame. The last few cm of pedal travel are deadzone (you press the clutch down half and ingame it already registers as 100%, any more pushing does nothing).

I didnt think it did thats why I tweaked it this way. It might have changed a while back. I have used a clutch since I start with LFS (Actlabs pedals and H before my G25) and it was poor early on.

The real benefit of the DXTweak route is that you never have to reset ever. Its just right always and in ALL sims you play because the pedal only reports when within the range you have specified.
Quote from Hallen :
If feathering is there, then it is a very, very short range. This might be accurate for full on race cars, but not for the street cars.

Well I'd have to agree with ball bearing turbo, using my G25, with the XRT, the clutch feathering range feels almost exactly like the clutch in my car. (I drive a 1991 turbo miata)

Edit: That thing about the calibration lock is really neat, I was always wondering what the point in that feature was.
Quote from Woz :The real benefit of the DXTweak route is that you never have to reset ever. Its just right always and in ALL sims you play because the pedal only reports when within the range you have specified.

Or if you are stuck with single axis pedals like me. I had to mess quite a lot with DSTweak to get my pedal working correctly. Stock, it would only let the clutch out half way.
Not about clutch, but guys, is it true that we'll be able to stall engines? Really? I've been waiting for that for a long time.
Just to make this clear once again since i never had 3 pedals and used manual clutch in LFS.. It works like in real car, like it has a biting point that varies from car to car (or that is universal for all cars?) and you can launch slowly with slow clutch release, revs will fall when the clutch bites, etc, it can practically be used as a real life launching technique practice? but now even the engine will stall?
Is this correct? I'm breaking my piggie for a G25 like, tommorow, if this is correct..

EDIT: just checked Androids replay :jawdrop: :bowdown: :gt: (< Scawen)
Quote from Boris Lozac :Just to make this clear once again since i never had 3 pedals and used manual clutch in LFS.. It works like in real car, like it has a biting point that varies from car to car (or that is universal for all cars?) and you can launch slowly with slow clutch release, revs will fall when the clutch bites, etc, it can practically be used as a real life launching technique practice? but now even the engine will stall?
Is this correct? I'm breaking my piggie for a G25 like, tommorow, if this is correct..

The clutch in LFS right now is not right. It has no friction point, it just slips less when you let the clutch out that much. It is a bit like a... Hmm... Like your kitchen sink... the more water you want, the more you open the valve..(sorry, kitchen sink was the only thing I could think of)

I am just curious if this changed in the new patch. If it did and it has a true friction point, I will be a very happy camper (will have to be set properly for me to be happy)


I hope they fix the part of poping the clutch like a retard in a road car bit... Yeesh. Full boost, AWD, clutch pop= Death to something real quick in real life.
Yes, this is correct. Have mercy on your piggie, make it swift.
Quote from Hallen :
I will have a go when I get home and if I am wrong, I will happily eat my words.

Yum, yum. It's a good thing I don't use foul words

Yep, you both were right. The clutch now has a bunch of range to it. It does seem to start a bit to low, and does not fully engage until the pedal is too high, but it definitely feathers.
I must have tried it prior to patch X or something. It was definitely binary before.
Quote from Hallen :
I must have tried it prior to patch X or something. It was definitely binary before.

The clutch works like that since S1, Scawen didn't touch the clutch "simulation" since he added it to LFS years ago, until now of course.
Hehe, yeah it's been this way since as far as I can remember. When I had the momo I used a separate wheel for the clutch; and it was the same
If i tack it up to like 2-3k and feather the clutch it just dies.
Quote from 98LS1 :If i tack it up to like 2-3k and feather the clutch it just dies.

Hope that will be fixed now, it could be used in driving schools as a launching practice... how cool would that be..
Quote from Hallen :Yep, you both were right. The clutch now has a bunch of range to it. It does seem to start a bit to low, and does not fully engage until the pedal is too high, but it definitely feathers.
I must have tried it prior to patch X or something. It was definitely binary before.

Maybe you really had it on button after all? I remember Scawen made button-clutch useless just some patches ago...
Quote from 98LS1 :If i tack it up to like 2-3k and feather the clutch it just dies.

Again: what car?

Are you doing this right from the garage because the E brake is on by default until you apply some force and it automatically disengages, which would cause what you're describing.
Or, are you sure your clutch pedal is not spiking erratically? I have a 3rd pedal set up now in light of the upcoming patch. It is smooth engaging the clutch (letting pedal off) until about 50% where it spikes down to 0, then back up to where it was at. Makes feathering the clutch out difficult.
Hallen, you should definitely double-check your LFS settings and your wheel's drivers... if everything is working, you should have a full range of clutch motion, and this should be reflected in LFS... if you're in the options, your clutch movement should be axis represented by the blue (?) bar in the lower right corner.

it's pretty well-represented in the game, at least based on the manual cars i've driven.

FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG