Maverick and I of GURU put together an explanation of the Options screens that we are hoping will help the comunity overall. It's not intended to be a direct technical explanation of what the options do, but rather a more subjective explanation of how you or I might react to each setting.

I am posting it here for a few reasons, hoping to have it deleted once it's done.

1. Obviously, any mistakes should be corrected.
   
2. I know a lot of you have your own tricks or observations that can make this more helpful still. (note the lack of explanation on why certain FF settings may be more succesful than others.)
   
3. Suggestions about where to put this thing when it's done.

If you would be so kind as to give it a look over, then make additions...

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Slartibartfast and Maverick of the Grown Up Racers Union have put together an interpretation of the Option screens in LFS in hopes of helping drivers sort through the mysteries of how each setting effects us on a visceral level. This is not a complete list of the settings, but rather, focuses on the settings that can affect the way we interpret our drive in LFS. Transforming visual and audio input to kinesthetic interpretations is a very important factor in how successful we are with our simming. Absolute lap time, consistency, and our level of enjoyment are all effected by how much we “get” or “do not get” from the illusion in front of us.

A lot of this is going to be highly subjective. Great! That is why they have put sliders on the values. Here we go:

OPTIONS

AUDIO
Car Sound Volume range: 0.0 - 20.0
Naturally, we need to hear the engine. It sounds cool and helps us know when to shift, if we have wheelspin, if the car is hopping, etc. If it is too loud, it will mask the other sounds. In rear drive cars it may be better lowered to help with ‘feeling’ the rear tires.
Skid Volume Boost range: 1.0 – 3.0
This is an important indication of what the tires are doing. It should be in the foreground of the audio mix to help ‘feel’ the car. If the tire sound is too low compared to other sounds, the driver will have a tendency to push too hard in corners or lock up the brakes. If the tire sound is too high, the driver will not push hard enough.
Wind Volume Boost range: 1.0 – 3.0
This increases perceived reality. It can also help sense of speed. Too much can be distracting.
Echo Volume Boost range: 1.0 – 3.0
This increases perceived reality. It can also help localization. Too much can be distracting.

SCREEN
The higher you can run your screen resolution the better. If we are trying to drive “inch perfect” and every pixel represents half a meter then we won’t be so successful. Also, it is of utmost importance that we look as far into the distance as possible when racing. Higher screen resolutions give us more detailed information, allowing us to plan ahead further.

There is a trade off however. The higher we run graphics options, the lower our frame rate will be. Frame rate is also important in sim racing. Frame rates below thirty get very hard to drive smoothly because every time we make an adjustment it may take a perceivable amount of time longer to get feedback from our monitor. Therefore, we will always be driving from memory, “I think I’m here… uh oh…. No I’m not.”

Each of our computers is different so taking the time to test and tweak will be to great advantage. The number one rule is, “Run as much as you can get away with, without sacrificing frame rate.” It is important to remember that online frame rates will typically be lower, especially in traffic.

There is no hard and fast rule, but settings like Screen Resolution and Frame Rates are considered necessary improvements, while settings like Simple Wheels and Disable Trees fall squarely in the “eye candy” department. Settings like Mirror LOD and Dust LOD can help situational awareness while racing, but if your computer is on the slow side, they suddenly shift into the eye candy category. There is a lot of gray area; you have to make the choices for yourself.

Wide Screen Effect options: Yes | No
All this does is put black bars over and under the image. I'd guess everything is rendered, and the black bars are put over the rendered image. Users with widescreen monitors or displays should use this, others should not.

On a typical 4:3 computer monitor, having Wide Screen set to [no] can give us vision that is a little more peripheral. It is easier to see how close we are to the side of the track. Hopefully, we won’t see someone’s wheel down there in the corner of the screen.

GRAPHICS
User LOD range: 0.25 – 1.00
This adjusts how much detail is in the distant track objects and other cars. It helps believability at the sacrifice of frame rate. Too little and the cars have square wheels.
Dust LOD range: 0.25 – 1.00
Depending on your setup, this could have a major impact on frame rates. Dust is good when racing because if you see the driver in front put a wheel off, you can guess that he is flustered and off balance. Dust is bad because if you are following “Black Jack” he is just trying to smoke you out to throw you off.
Mirror LOD range: 0.10 – 0.30
Mirror LOD also has a big impact or frame rate. What do you *need* to see. For me, cars only. The mirror is very important in racing. [Note: Hitting other drivers needlessly is considered impolite in most circles.]
Screen Width Affects LOD options: Yes | No
(What the heck is this? I can’t tell what it’s doing.) I'm really not sure what this does either. My educated guess is that it adjust LOD if you adjust your resolution (screen width). Slight impact on fps, pretty big impact on LOD. Try standing on the Blackwood starting line and tunring it on and off. I see details farther with it off.
Track LOD Reduction options: Yes | No
This reduces faraway detail to gain fps. It uses simpler models in the distance.
MIP Bias range: -4.00 – 0.00
MIPmaps are lower resolution textures calculated by the GPU to be used in the distance. Lower resolution textures are blurry. Higher resolutions are sharper. Can cause 'shimmering' of distant textures. Adjust to suit your preference. Lower is slightly faster. (More FPS)
Shadow Type options: Off | Low Res | Hi Res
Shadow has a great impact on frame rate. Ultimately we do not need it. It does add “weight” to the cars when viewing replays or following someone on track. Use with care.
Simple Wheels options: Off | Mirror | All
Removes highlights and spokes from the center of the rim. If you are having frame rate problems, doing without those things will help. Be careful with this setting! If you are using hardware shaders this cannot be set to on. That will cost you massive amounts of FPS, as much of the shading is done by CPU!
Disable Trees options: Off | Mirror | All
Removes the trees around the track. If you are having frame rate problems, doing without those will help.
Disable Flags options: Off | Mirror | All
Removes the flags around the track. If you are having frame rate problems, doing without those will help.
Disable Rubber options: Off | Mirror | All
Removes dynamic skid marks around the track. This can be very helpful as it gives you an indication of what your opponents are doing. If you are having frame rate problems, doing without those will help.
Enable Dither options: Yes | No
In lower than 32bit graphics modes, this allows the missing colors to be represented by something close. There is little, if any, frame rate hit. It is suggested for any mode but 32bit.
Enable MIP Filter options: Yes | No
This is some extra fancy filtering of MIPmaps. Enables you to run less MIPmaps with better result. Yes = faster.
Half Texture Size options: Yes | No
This option will allow you to use smaller textures. Depending on how much memory your video card has, this may be very helpful. It looks pretty darn good either way, and shows you what the estimated memory usage is in either mode.

Radeon
[This is the program recognizing my video card. Yours, and the options following, may be different.]
Hardware Vertex Shading options: Off | On
This allows the GPU to do very much of the work shading and transforming the geometry, greatly improving frame rates.
Z Buffer Depth options: 15 | 16 | 24 | 32
The Z-buffer is the buffer that stores how far into the scene polygons are. They are then sorted, and the ones furthest in are drawn before the closer ones. The accuracy of this buffer dictate how accurate this sorting is. Lower is faster, but you can get some mis-sorted polygons, like car parts being misaligned.
Simple Track (no car shadow) options: Off | Scenery | All
When you turn simple track ON, you turn vertex shading OFF, which means you just made the CPU do a lot of the shading and convolution of vertices that the GPU is perfectly capable of handling. The only time you would want simple track ON is when you have a GPU that does not support vertex shading, i.e. a 2d card or a very old type GPU.
Haze Effect options: Yes | No
This makes objects in the distance get progressively more ‘foggy’. It really helps with sense of distance and speed, making the sim more realistic by allowing you to drive more by ‘feel’ than by rote. Frame rate hit is minimal with a modern video card.

Just a quick read-over. Might want to add that Mip Bias also affects the visibility (either crisp/far or blurry/short) of some lines on the track, such as chalk lines in autocross.

And when you get to the 'Display Path' option (I think that is what it is called).... that is important for most people's preference of a visible driving line on the track. (ie. the Off, User Car, and All Cars options).

VIEW
Perspective is very important in driving sims. In the past, the developers based on what they liked in the lab, have locked perspective options. Since we all have different eyes, monitors, seating heights and distances, etc… the ability to change these things really levels the playing field. LFS is king of sims in this respect. Be thankful.

Field Of View range: 40° – 120°
This adjusts how much we see to the top, bottom, and sides of our sitting position. You will notice that with FOV the impression is that you are sitting closer or farther away from the dash even though you are not. If you sit closer the ‘feel’ in the front wheels increases while the ‘feel’ in the rear wheels decreases. Set the FOV to 120° and you will notice that the car feels like it has a lot of understeer. At 40° the car will feel very responsive, steer angles are very easy to gauge. Too far in either direction and we start to lose sense of speed.

Another effect of FOV is that our timing is dictated by how close or far we are. Again, FOV does not adjust that, but the perception is tricky. A low FOV makes us feel closer, we will be perceptually farther up the track, making all of our movements such as braking and turning happen too late. A high FOV makes us feel further away, and we will be making these same movements too early. Low FOV makes the track seem shorter between turns. High makes the track seem longer. If you want to brake, turn in, and apex later, make your FOV lower. If you want to brake, turn in, and apex earlier, make it higher.

The balance of FOV is a tough one based on how much feel we need front to back vs. how much timing adjustment we can tolerate. In rear drive cars, higher settings can increase the ability to drive in a ‘seat of the pants’ style, while lower FOV can make it easier to point the car.

These next features are again, what separates LFS from the rest. This is the dynamic cockpit that had never really been implemented correctly in previous sims because we all need different stimuli or feedback. Too little movement, and we don’t get enough information, too much and it becomes confusing. All of these settings are highly personal, experiment a lot.
1g Head Tilt range: 0.00° – 2.00°
Head Tilt is how much the head moves back and forth and side to side under acceleration, deceleration, and lateral acceleration. The setting is for how many degrees the head moves per 1 gravity of force. Very helpful when braking.
1g Lateral Shift range: 0.25m – 1.00m
How much the driver moves during lateral acceleration. Increases realism, but can be confusing.
1g Forward Shift range: 0.25m – 1.00m
How much the driver moves during acceleration and deceleration. Increases realism and can help read the car. Really helps with reading the brakes. Too much can be confusing.
1g Vertical Shift range: 0.25m – 1.00m
How much the driver moves up and down when riding over bumps or rises. Increases realism and can help read the car. Too much can be confusing.
Default Drive View options: In Car | Custom
Quite simply, this is where you sit when you drive. In car is the proper realistic view for simming. Other views give different awareness, but what are we doing here, slot cars?

Settings For In Car View [XR]
This next group of settings is different for each individual car. The letters in parentheses designate for which car the settings are. In this case, I am driving the XRR.
Pitch View range: -22.50° – 22.50°
This setting also deals with perspective and has been greatly overlooked in previous sims. Where does the horizon line fall on the screen? It is of utmost importance to look ahead while driving. Where we look has as much to do with our success as almost anything else. I prefer my horizon to be higher. It keeps my vision aimed at the right place on the track. If I lower the setting, I tend to look too closely in front of me. This setting is highly personal, experiment a lot.
Rotate View range: -30.00° – 30.00°
This setting rotates the static view right to left.
Mirror Offset Lateral range: 0.000m – 0.250m
In cars that have central overhead mirrors, this allows us to place them left to right. In non-formula cars, this is extremely important. Place it where you can easily see the whole mirror while driving. [Note: Hitting other drivers needlessly is considered impolite in most circles.]
Mirror Offset Vertical [0.017m] range: 0.000m – 0.100m
In cars that have central overhead mirrors, this allows us to place them up and down.
Clocks Mode options: Off | Real | Virtual
Depending on how you have your cockpit and FOV set, you may need help seeing your revs, speed, and gear.
Move View With Animation options: Off | On
(Not sure what this does.) Me neither. I see no difference.
Draw Driver/Wheel options: Driver ON WheelON | Driver OFF WheelON | Driver OFF Wheel OFF
In sims, it’s critical to have as much awareness of steering angle as possible. Having the wheel and/or arms on can help. Most drivers use very consistent steering angle throughout their turns and memorize how much by “O’clock” in their over-hand. You may find the graphical representation helps, at the expense of frame rate of course.

Look Function options: Axis | Steer | msX | msXY
Look function rotates the forward view to look in the direction that the selected axis is moving. This can be especially helpful. When we are driving in the real world, it is only when entering a long straight that we are actually looking perfectly forward. Most of the time we are looking off to one side or the other. Sims are rough in this regard because the screen is only in front of us. Until we have wrap-around monitoring, this is a good option. It allows for sight lines that are more intuitive, but at the expense of balance. Keeping this to a minimum will make the rear drive cars easier to handle. Especially during oversteer.
Look Sensitivity range: 0.00 – 2.00
With rear drive, it’s probably better not to use Look Function or keep it very low. When we countersteer the view turns towards the wheels. This can challenge balance, but after a little practice can also indicate steering angle, making it easier to correct slides. Again, this is very much a personal setting.
Button Look options: Instant | Smooth
This is how you look out the sides of your car. One way is instant to 90°, the other pans over to 90° and back to forward smoothly. Each of us will prefer one to the other. It is very important to look when racing. It’s also very important to not lose control while doing so. Choose one and practice with it. [Note: Hitting other drivers needlessly is considered impolite in most circles.]


DISPLAY
Frame Rate Display options: Off | Left | Right
Use this while testing all your options to see what impact your changes have on frame rate.
Digital Speedo options: Yes | No
One or the other will be much easier to read at a glance.
Mirror Mode options: Off | Real | Virtual
Depending on your viewing settings and the car you are in, more mirror will be very helpful. In road cars with a centrally mounted mirror, Virtual will be redundant and eat up frames. In the formula cars, it’s a must. [Note: Hitting other drivers needlessly is considered impolite in most circles.]
Show Pedals options: Yes | No
Helpful when calibrating, trouble shooting, or watching replays.
Show Small Map options: Yes | No
Of course! [Note: Hitting other drivers needlessly is considered impolite in most circles.]
Show Position List options: Yes | No
Can be informative during a race, but also distracting.
Drop Shadows options: Yes | No
If you are having problems reading message text, this may help.
Message Test Size range: 0.020 – 0.060
If you are having problems reading message text, this may help.
Display Results CTRL+TAB options: Yes | No
This allows the user to turn off the display of race results with CTRL+TAB
Overall Times Display options: Relative | Absolute
Relative will show you the winner/leaders absolute time and all times after will be represented by the difference to that time. Absolute show you the raw times.
Check Point Text options: Split Times | Split Times and Names | None
What you see when you cross checkpoints.
Show Virtual Start Lights options: Yes | No
If you have a habit of starting very, very far back the grid, this may help.
Manual Shift Indicator options: Shift UP and DOWN | Do Not Display | Shift UP Only
This can be helpful to learn the redlines of individual cars.

PLAYER
Shift Type options: Auto | Sequential | Shifter
This needs to be adjusted to match your controller set up. To ease switching, you only need go to Player tab now for shift type and autoclutch. Otherwise, you'd have to go to Player to set autoclutch and Controls to set shifter type.
Brake Help options: Yes | No
For keyboard/mouse, or gamepad, this will be very useful. If you are using an analog brake controller, this will limit efficiency.
Throttle Help options: Yes | No
For keyboard/mouse, or gamepad, this will be very useful. If you are using an analog throttle controller, this will limit efficiency.
Auto Clutch options: Yes | No
If you don’t have a clutch pedal/axis this will be very useful. If you are using an analog clutch controller, this will limit efficiency.
Throttle Cut On Upshift options: Yes | No
This cuts the throttle as you shift up. It is the same as lifting your right foot. Doing your own throttle work is gives you much more control.
Throttle Blip On Downshift options: Yes | No
This blips the throttle as you shift down. It is the same as pushing down on your right foot. Doing your own throttle work is gives you much more control.


CONTROLS
Mouse/KB | Wheel/JS
Wheel Turn range: 180° – 900°
This should match your actual degrees of rotation for your wheel. This is purely cosmetic, to match the on-screen steering wheel rotation to your real-life one. However, could be of utmost importance if different rotations between your hands and onscreen wheel distract you from racing.
Wheel Turn Compensation range: 0.00 – 1.00
This is steering non-linearity. Lower number = more linear. This setting can be of vital importance. For one thing, how do you expect or want the car to act when turning the wheel to say, 11 o’clock overhand? Also, it’s important to experiment and fine tune while timing laps. Reading slip angle is very tough in sims. It’s possible to have a car and interface that feels terrific, but do not use the front tires to their full potential.
Force Strength range: 0 – 200
The overall force feedback multiplier in percent.
Throttle/Brake Axis options: Combined | Separate | Buttons
This needs to be adjusted to match your controller set up.
Shift Type [sequential] options: Auto | Sequential | Shifter
This needs to be adjusted to match your controller set up.
Clutch [button] options: Axis | Button
This needs to be adjusted to match your controller set up.
Hand Brake [button] options: Axis | Button
This needs to be adjusted to match your controller set up.
Throttle/Brake Centre Reduction range 0.00 – 1.00
This is helpful if you are using a single axis on your throttle/brake controls. Or, as in my case, if your analog controller is going nuts in XP it can keep the idle down to around 4,000 rpm. J
Buttons 1
Use these options to customize your controller. Such as putting your shifter on paddles on your wheel.
Buttons 2
Use these options to customize your controller. Such as putting Button Look on your steering wheel or changing your Pit Lane Limiter to the SPACE key. I have turned off the Zooms and Car Reset because they bug me.
Axis/FF
Force Feedback options: Yes | No
This turns FF on or off in the game.
Calibration Lock options: Yes | No
This locks the axis calibration. Means that even if you remove one or more axis, or an axis should become uncalibrated, LFS won't recalibrate it to the new range.
Remove Deadzones options: Yes | No
Some controllers have deadzones in their drivers that can't be adjusted. This setting removes those.


MISC
Full Screen Vertical Sync options: Yes | No
[insert CRT and LCD technology explanation here] This force the game to wait for a screen blank before drawing the next frame. This makes video smoother and inhibit video tearing, but can severely affect framerate and can cause stutters and jumps in framerate.
Limit Frame Rate In Game options: Yes | No
If your computer can’t run flat out graphics all the time, this will help give you a smoother experience by keeping the frame below the maximum frame rate setting.
Maximum Frame Rate range 10 – 100
What works for your computer? Use the Frame Rate Display under DISPLAY settings to see what’s right for you. Remember, low frame rates are harder to drive.
Minimum Sleep range 1ms – 20ms
This force the game to release control over resources for the set amount of time. Can help some stuttering issues caused by external apps and services that are running low on resources.
Screen Clear Type options: ellipsoid | clr+sky | plain sky
(Not sure what this does.)
Sound Lag range 0.10sec – 0.50sec
Audio takes time to get through a computer. If this is too low for your system, the sound may get funny. If it’s too high, the tire and engine noises play at the wrong times. Experiment to see what your computer can handle.
Analog Steer Smooth range 0.00 – 1.00
This is basically a low-pass filter for the steering input. If you have an old controller that spikes and jitters, enable this option. Can cause slight controller lag.
Dynamic LOD Reduction range 0.00 – 1.00
This turns level of detail graphics down determined by your frame rate settings. So if you are on a crowded grid you may see the details change. Once the pack thins out some, all returns to normal. Can really improve online play for everyone.

http://www.lfswiki.net/index.php/LFS_S2_Manual:Options

All that work...







OK, you explained some of the things better

Please note that this latest description tries to define how these settings affect the driving "feel". Anything that doesn't directly relate to kinesthetic interpretation will be disgarded. It has been my intention all along to add useful interpretations to the WIKI manual.

On a similar note, there are several graphics options that make huge differences to how LFS looks but have zero affect on FPS. IMO they should be unadjustable and default to their highest setting, since they won't help users with slow systems and will help unclutter the vast array of graphics options we have.

...

...

Well...

Which ones are they?

I don't know, I've only read that from other peoples' testing. I can't test it myself either as my FPS is CPU bound.

Quote from Slartibartfast :

Wide Screen Effect options: Yes | No
All this does is put black bars over and under the image. I'd guess everything is rendered, and the black bars are put over the rendered image. Users with widescreen monitors or displays should use this, others should not.

This is wrong afaik, Wide Screen Effect is purely to get a wide screen effect on a 4:3 monitor, essentially just the illusion of wide screen. If you actually have a widescreen monitor you need to use a non-square mode within LFS. Under Options -> Screen select show non-square modes.

Quote from Slartibartfast :

Wheel Turn range: 180° – 900°
This should match your actual degrees of rotation for your wheel. This is purely cosmetic, to match the on-screen steering wheel rotation to your real-life one. However, could be of utmost importance if different rotations between your hands and onscreen wheel distract you from racing.
Wheel Turn Compensation range: 0.00 – 1.00
This is steering non-linearity. Lower number = more linear. This setting can be of vital importance. For one thing, how do you expect or want the car to act when turning the wheel to say, 11 o’clock overhand? Also, it’s important to experiment and fine tune while timing laps. Reading slip angle is very tough in sims. It’s possible to have a car and interface that feels terrific, but do not use the front tires to their full potential.

It's not exactly correct to say that Wheel Turn is "purely cosmetic", with a DFP say you would set it to 720 range which is it's max afaik. Then if you set Wheel Turn Compensation to 1.00 (or it might be 0, I forget) it will automatically adjust to take the same amount of turn of the steering wheel for each car. A road car having more turns than a formula car for example, saving you from having to adjust the amount of turn the wheel will allow with an external program like the profiler or dxtweak2.

Yes just the last part of that is false, that option is not for widescreen users... it is just a 'cinematic effect' so to speak.

please add those things to the lfswiki!!!

Quote from tailing :

with a DFP say you would set it to 720 range which is it's max afaik.

DFP is 900°.

Your right, you need to set it to 720 though, full explanation of it here
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=886#post886

Move View With Animation options: Off | On
(Not sure what this does.) Me neither. I see no difference.

It moves the view just a little bit if you have look functioning set to "Axis". If it's set to "Steer" you can still see a little difference when steering because it moves the view a bit more.

I never understood steering lock compensation, but now I do - thanks! I think that there are loads of people that don't know what half the settings in LFS mean. It would be nice if this could be implemented into LFS - ie. you move the mouse over a setting and hold it there and this explaination comes up...

Quote from deggis :

Move View With Animation options: Off | On
(Not sure what this does.) Me neither. I see no difference.

It moves the view just a little bit if you have look functioning set to "Axis". If it's set to "Steer" you can still see a little difference when steering because it moves the view a bit more.

Specifically, it makes the camera move like the ingame rendered head of your driver. The practical effect is that when steering left or right in cars with slow steering, the head moves slightly left and right as the model does the "hand over hand" maneuver.

Quote from tailing :

Your right, you need to set it to 720 though, full explanation of it here
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=886#post886

I have mine set to 500° (and 200° for Formula), simply because it's too small for the roadcars, feel a bit gimmicky, afraid to put a lot of force on it and that it'll brake , and mounting method is too ristricting to have a good mount, would have loved METAL construction for STURDINESS and slightly larger wheel (if you love the roadcards).

making a fast turn at 720° (let's not start with 900°) from lock to lock is just not feasible for me without ending up with a broken wheel

Quote from deggis :

Move View With Animation options: Off | On
(Not sure what this does.) Me neither. I see no difference.

It moves the view just a little bit if you have look functioning set to "Axis". If it's set to "Steer" you can still see a little difference when steering because it moves the view a bit more.

It just makes the head movement a bit more realistic. Imagine moving your hands right now whilst turning the wheel at full lock from a standstill... you very well might just lean your body and head a bit to adjust accordingly. And if you've watched the LFS driver model externally, you can see that it does a little twitch at the end. This option just makes it feel more like a life-like head movement I guess.

I've seen a few discussions on FFB about how to set for maximum intuitiveness. But am reluctant to look them up and add as I don't use FFB and don't want to get something wrong. But I would assume there are pros and cons to each setting regarding how we react physically and mentally? And tips?

What about adding all that stuff to the LFS Wiki? There we already have a guide of most of the options and your work would be a valueable contribution.

http://www.lfswiki.net/index.php/LFS_S2_Manual:Options

Quote from Tweaker :

It just makes the head movement a bit more realistic. Imagine moving your hands right now whilst turning the wheel at full lock from a standstill... you very well might just lean your body and head a bit to adjust accordingly. And if you've watched the LFS driver model externally, you can see that it does a little twitch at the end. This option just makes it feel more like a life-like head movement I guess.

Now that you explained it I can notice it. I have it enabled and it's good. A bit funny that in the beginning of my LFS career I didn't like the incar view because it felt too "static". But after enabling these little things (head tilt, lateral and forward shifts and look function etc.) I think incar views in LFS are nearly perfect, only thing they need is just more detail.

In my experience, 'Move View WIth Animation' on also gives you quite a bit more view vibration over bumps for that Genuine Rfactor Feeling. Which is nice.

I was just looking at this - the LFS textures do not have MIP maps (presumably to save HDD space). What is the point of MIP bias then? Or are the MIP maps generated when loading textures?