Hi, I've read posts about tyres sometimes but now I'd like to know a little more in depth about temperatures and how they should be distributed.

When I'm hotlapping I always warm up the tyres nicely before going for the time attack, but I'm always confused when it comes to long races.

Currently I'm driving the FXR at Aston Historic for a race next monday which is scheduled for 27 laps, about 66 min. As I cannot warm the tyres before for the race, they get like this (all tyres R2):

- Front tyres get green inside (not the inner surface), but too hot on the surface at times if I brake too hard. The inner surface is quite hotter than the outer.
- Rear tyres won't get green on the inside, they remain quite blue, but the surface is in a nice green in the inner side, but blue in the outer.

I'd like anyone to explain what's the effect of the inner temperature. When I'm hotlapping I get the rear tyres get all green nicely both in surfaces and the inside, but the blue inside during race simulation worries me a bit. I think that although the surface is green the tyres are not responding as they should.

I think that reducing camber (in the rear) would get the inner warmer as the heat distributon in the surface would be more equitative, but I don't know if that would take away too much cornering speed.

Any help with temperatures?

Just as a start: http://en.lfsmanual.net/wiki/D ... Tyre_temperature_.26_wear

The "inside temperature" as you call it, is the temperature of the air in the tyre. As it heats up, the pressure rises, affecting the car handing and other things (see here). It should be mostly turquoise - green, but it's IMO not that important in LFS.

One thing that you have to consider, which you probably don't know from hotlapping is, that on long races the tyre temperature can be quite a problem, because they get too cold. Optimally the tyres should be equally heated and a bit too hot in the first third of the race, because otherwise they will be too cold at the end. In the FXR you can quite easily equalise the heating by messing with the torque split, but it rather significantly impacts the handling.

Thanks for the info android. I'm not touching the torque split, this is a WR set and I'm already used to its handling so I just want to adjust the tyres' temperatures by fine tuning the things that will affect other aspects of the set the least.

If the air temperature affects the pressure, then I guess I should have it green so the pressure is high enough to give me those little extra kmhs at straights, and that little plus of handling at the corners.