Ok.. I was testing out the FZR on National Standard. I was changing the gearing and final drive and when i was done i took a test drive, all seemed the same just a few little changes, But then the next night i played the same setup on the same track it was alot faster then normal, and when i say that i'd be leaving the last set of turns leading to the straight i was able to hit 170mph and be able to take the first turn with no problem and i normally was able to get up to 164mph. thats one problem my next is the other straight away, as you come down the hill part i'll be at 155mph in 5th gear and shift into 6th and sometimes it'll stay at 155-154mph until the sharp left turn, but other times when i'm traveling the same path at 155mph in 5th gear the secong i shift into 6th it's like " POWER BAN " See you later, eat my dust deal, the car will suddenly speed up to very fast and it never done that when i was testing gears and final drive's. I'm woundering if this can be a bug? Also do you have to restart Lfs for settings to go into effect? I often wounder why this is happening?

If some one can help me out i'd be happy.

Thanks -Mike

Are you using a wheel and pedals?

Yes, Logitech MoMo, And it's all brand new and cords werent in the way, i thought of that was well

Wind?

Wind was off at the time

To answer one of your questions, you don't have to restart LFS for any settings to take effect. Anything you change in-game is changed immediately.

About the speeds, I will wait to be corrected but here's an idea.

Could it be that after a few laps the tyres are getting up to temperature, thus getting more pressure, and as we know, more tyre pressure = more top speed.

I'm not sure but it's a good idea, i'll try some thing mentioned and see if any of them change the problem.

If the difference is so drastic I would suspect the Momo pedals.

Should i recalibrate momo's pedals everytime i run lfs?

Me and my teammates have been driving allot laps for the past few months, and never heard of this - are you sure your pedals are calibrated right?

And/or when looking at the throttle bar, does it look smooth when you apply/reduce throttle, or does it jump/spike?

Just make sure replay saving is on, and next time this happens, save a replay so we can see this. It could be any number of things, and I'd rather not play a guessing game and just have something to watch to give a possible explanation in return. That's your best bet for figuring this out

Reaching a 170 mph on the straight at AS National is easily possible if you have a low downforce setup and a decent exit speed out of the last chicane.

FWI about the momo pedals. This may apply even if they are brand spanking new as they have a bit of a design flaw.

What happens is, the axis of the pedals are tapered. They can allow a little bit of sideways force when pressing them. This will allow the them to spike higher than they normally are at 100%. Since they are autocalibrating, they will then be calibrated at this higher level, but you may not see that spike again, thus you will now see 80-90% throttle from then on at maximum pedal deflection. That will result in a 160'ish mph top speed at AS National. The next night, you would have recalibrated when you started LFS again and would have full 100% throttle again, until you exert that sideforce causing the calibration spike. It doesn't happen all the time. It just depends on how you press the pedal with your foot.

Very very simple but PITA solution is to pay attention to the throttle bar that shows on the bottom right of the screen. There is a white bar at the top when you hit 100% throttle. If you don't see the white bar with the throttle floored, you need to recalibrate. That can be done in the controls options of LFS.

Very simple but more permanant solution is to open up the pedals. They are a simple design and easy to access. It's a little bit of a pain to put back together as the bottom surface holds the actual pedals in place, but it's not bad. Once openned up, you can wrap each side of the pedal axis with electrical tape (black vinyl tape). That will take up any slack in the axis and help to prevent the rocking and seeing side forces on the pedal axis.

My Momo pedals lasted 4 months before I saw this problem. I wrapped a single layer of electrical tape to the axis of both pedals and after a year and a half, I haven't seen this particular problem arise ever again.

Quote from mrodgers :

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Isn't it easier to just calibrate properly once (without overshooting 100%) and then enable calibration lock in LFS options? At least on my G25 that works flawlessly, as I have my clutch mapped to reach 100% ingame after about 60% pedal travel and it never failed on me yet.

With Test Patch U30 you can see if you are at full throttle. There is a tiny white bar on the top of the throttle, clutch and brake indicator.

Maybe this can help to find calibration problems.

Quote from AndroidXP :

Isn't it easier to just calibrate properly once (without overshooting 100%) and then enable calibration lock in LFS options? At least on my G25 that works flawlessly, as I have my clutch mapped to reach 100% ingame after about 60% pedal travel and it never failed on me yet.

I don't know why, but for me, it always recalibrated on the pedal spike even with the lock enabled in LFS. Not only that, but with wear on the plastic axis and where they mount, it can start to be difficult to "calibrate properly" as just a slight twist in the pedal will make it spike. It's a poor design in the pedal axis and just much easier to fix it with a bandaid than to have it spike all the time.

Quote from AndroidXP :

Isn't it easier to just calibrate properly once (without overshooting 100%) and then enable calibration lock in LFS options? At least on my G25 that works flawlessly, as I have my clutch mapped to reach 100% ingame after about 60% pedal travel and it never failed on me yet.

The Logitech wheels have a cool self-calibration feature. That means they don't report the measured angle of rotation to the PC, but a % value that is processed from the device-internal calibration. The wheel itself measures what is 100%, tells the PC that it's 100%, and the PC then maps 100% to 100%.
If you overshoot the wheel internal calibration is messed up, it reports 90% at full pedal deflection, and no restarting of LFS or calibration locking will help you.
So the calibration is messed up before the data even reaches the USB port. That's why it's so difficult to make a software-solution to circumvent it.

Great feature, isn't it?

Vain

Oh. Ooohh. Great indeed. It's the same thing LFS does just at hardware level. Balls.

Try the U30 test patch. LFS has no problems talking to the G25 then.

Have you set the clutch as "axis" instead of "button"?

I have used the G25 with the 0.5U version without problems, but updated because the patch U30 is the best you can get for now(script system, etc)

Yah, don't forget to set the clutch to axis instead of button, that is probably your problem

Quote from TypeRCivic :

I'm not sure but it's a good idea, i'll try some thing mentioned and see if any of them change the problem.

I have the same wheel model as you. When I let go... the car braked automatically