Want to buy a clutch pedal to add to my Logitech momo. Any suggestions?

The cheapest way would be to buy a cheap wheel,and map it's gas pedal to clutch.

Ghetto,but should work.

Or if you have $$$$,call some of the specialists like ECCI or VPP or FREX.

Quote from Thunderhead :

The cheapest way would be to buy a cheap wheel,and map it's gas pedal to clutch.

Ghetto,but should work.

Or if you have $$$$,call some of the specialists like ECCI or VPP or FREX.

wow - that VPP stuff looks nice. Might try your first suggestion tonight. I've got an old saitek wheel at home.

if you want some old Momo pedals - pm me!

I got some ACT Labs pedals, 3 pedals ftw - 2nd hand they cost be £60, but worth every penny!

Quote from Jakg :

if you want some old Momo pedals - pm me!

I got some ACT Labs pedals, 3 pedals ftw - 2nd hand they cost be £60, but worth every penny!

You lucky bugger. I've had a search on ebay but there's nothing doing. Those and the VPP ones look very tasty.

Quote from Gentlefoot :

You lucky bugger. I've had a search on ebay but there's nothing doing. Those and the VPP ones look very tasty.

i know - a member here was getting a G25 - sold all their old kit off, he said "£100", i said all i could get was £60, and that i knew an offer like that was a joke - he said Sold!

eBay isn't the best place to look - try the "For sale" section on RSC - only Pro-Simmers have good pedals, so look on the places for Pro-Simmers! And :bhm: while your at it

Sorted. Set up my old Saitek wheel and am using the pedal set as a clutch. Works perfectly. Got to within a second of my PB round Blackwood in the XFG using manual clutch, shifter and heel-toeing. It's amazing how much earlier you have to start braking when you've got to do it all yourself and start turning in with only one hand on the wheel.

Big problem with racing like that is that you can't change gear and look right. i.e. on the entry to a right hander.

What shifter are you using?
I plan buying a cheap wheel with a rather flat pedal set so I can mount my MOMO pedals top down and use the MOMO's accelerator as a clutch and (one half of) the new pedalset for a below mounted accelerator. That would match most real car's setup. A bit wood to mount it all to and I'm done. But then I'd have to use my FFshifter more...

Vain

Quote from Vain :

What shifter are you using?
I plan buying a cheap wheel with a rather flat pedal set so I can mount my MOMO pedals top down and use the MOMO's accelerator as a clutch and (one half of) the new pedalset for a below mounted accelerator. That would match most real car's setup. A bit wood to mount it all to and I'm done. But then I'd have to use my FFshifter more...

Vain

Just the shifter built into to the momo. It's not an H-shifter but it still requires you to take your hand off the wheel. And because it's on the right it's like driving a left hand drive car, which I haven't done much of IRL.

Sounds like a cool idea you have there mate. I'd be interested to see a piccy when you've sorted it.

well you could just swap the side of the shifter with ease on the Momo

Quote from Jakg :

well you could just swap the side of the shifter with ease on the Momo

doh! didn't know you could do that.

Perhaps you should have read the manual...
Oh, my idea won't come reality too soon. I'm rather slow with the FFshifter, even if I use autoclutch. And manually clutching won't improve that. So the idea has been lurking around my head for quite a while...

Vain

Quote from Vain :

Perhaps you should have read the manual...
Oh, my idea won't come reality too soon. I'm rather slow with the FFshifter, even if I use autoclutch. And manually clutching won't improve that. So the idea has been lurking around my head for quite a while...

Vain

Yeah - obviously it all slows you down but I'm only ever going to do the manual clutch and shift when I'm single playing offline. Just gets me into good habits for my real life track driving.

As for reading the manual - Vain m8 - that's so German. Us English don't read manuals!

In germany the procedure is:
Install the device. Screw it up in the procedure. Try to fix it. Fail. Try to fix it again. Congratulate yourself to getting half of the device's features to work and then, while leaning back in self-content, skim over the manual to see wether it is well written or not. That's the way we judge wether the manufacturer has done his work well or not.
And by the way, but never as the main aim of looking at the manual, you also notice all the features you missed during the initial installation of the device.
(Just so you get your prejudice sorted... )

Vain

Quote from Vain :

In germany the procedure is:
Install the device. Screw it up in the procedure. Try to fix it. Fail. Try to fix it again. Congratulate yourself to getting half of the device's features to work and then, while leaning back in self-content, skim over the manual to see wether it is well written or not. That's the way we judge wether the manufacturer has done his work well or not.
And by the way, but never as the main aim of looking at the manual, you also notice all the features you missed during the initial installation of the device.
(Just so you get your prejudice sorted... )

Vain

Maybe we're not so different after all.

Quote from thisnameistaken :

Part-timer

I tell you why though. When I'm downshifting with the shifter I've only got one hand on the wheel which means I can only look in one direction. I would race online like it but I'm worried about hitting people at turn in points after heavy braking. Maybe if I do my downshifting earlier and just persevere with it it might be OK with just a quick look after I've finished downchanging but really I should be focusing on the turn in reference point and apex at that time.

Quote from Gentlefoot :

I tell you why though. When I'm downshifting with the shifter I've only got one hand on the wheel which means I can only look in one direction. I would race online like it but I'm worried about hitting people at turn in points after heavy braking. Maybe if I do my downshifting earlier and just persevere with it it might be OK with just a quick look after I've finished downchanging but really I should be focusing on the turn in reference point and apex at that time.

I'm not sure about other wheels, but I can press two buttons at the same time easily with my MS wheel. And by pressing two buttons I mean that I can even look behind and I need to use only one finger/hand for it . Maybe you could try different button layout?

Quote from Hyperactive :

I'm not sure about other wheels, but I can press two buttons at the same time easily with my MS wheel. And by pressing two buttons I mean that I can even look behind and I need to use only one finger/hand for it . Maybe you could try different button layout?

I can do that but I've been using my layout for almost a year and it'll do my head in to change it now. But yeah, if I decide I want to race online I'll have to do that.

Quote from thisnameistaken :

I have the look functions on the D-pad of my DFP, the stick's on the opposite side so I suppose it doesn't affect me.

Plus I've found - at a pinch - I can downshift without taking my right hand off the wheel by just pushing the stick with the knuckles of my right hand. It can sometimes turn the wheel a bit though, which throws me off the road in cars like the RAC.

DFP gearchanger must be much nearer the wheel than on the momo. Don't have a d-pad either. But really I've got no excuses. I just need to get used to new button layout, clutching, shifting and looking at certain times. That should keep me busy until Christmas!

My aim is to get to within a few tenths of my PBs with the paddle and auto clutch. To do that my heel-toeing will need to be spot on. Racing with that config is not so much of an aim for me.