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rb4 differentials
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rb4 differentials
i guess this would apply to the fxr too, also being an awd...

i've been playing around with the rb4 again... possibly in early prep for a tbo league...

does anyone know if there is an "optimal" configuration for the drivetrain? some setups i've seen use double locked diff, some use front open diff, and not to mention the center diff + torque split... i never know how to set all of it right.

the setup i'm attaching works good most of the time, but i've noticed that if i don't get the lap right (or right enough), it either loses traction exiting corners, or understeers hard. i think it's the open front diff, but bleh.

i'm looking for something that should work on most tracks, but should also be a legitimate configuration, unlike double locked diffs...

the rest of the settings i don't care about, i'm more concerned about the diffs... (i know the gear ratio is slightly out of whack)

any suggestions, or tips? thanks
Attached files
RB4_crap.set - 132 B - 1284 views
I have mine set up like my real car.
Viscous coupling center diff. With 12rads locking. 55% torque split (front)
The front is an open diff. But with a LSD , you should have more drive out of corners.
In the rear , I also have a viscous coupling , with 10rad locking.
The handling comes close to my real car. Slight understeer out of corners , bur loads of grip.
Off road ist also great. But I would change the torque split more to the rear wheels.
I've personally found the AWD vehicles handle best with only a light locking of the diffs, but a healthy rearward bias to the torque split.

Why? Too much locking just adds understeer, and with three diffs rather than one, that's two more sources of understeer. So keeping light locking helps give the turn in characteristics as dictated by your suspension. I generally use a little more locking at the front compared to the rear, to better handle the power. I send enough power to the rear wheels to a) optimise tyre heating and wear and b) give the car a slight oversteer tendency under power, so it feels a bit more like RWD than FWD. From memory, I used about 33% in the RB4 and 22% in the FXR. A couple of percent either way makes quite a difference to on power handling, if the rest of your setup is quite neutral.
i find just put the power where you want it for the best balance, and takeoff, and where the grip is generally needed in relation to front/back, as a start.

after that you figure the center diff wont do much on road as you should be keeping all 4 wheels on the ground most of the time, and as long as you have some locking front to back you are all set front/back wise.

for the front its all about driving style. if you tend to push the car hard into corners, and a locked diff will pull the car the way you want, then put a high locking in the front. i like using clutch, because you can control what the car is doing with your right foot, especially in a slide.

if you are more conservative, and use the "slow in fast out" technique, then best keep the locking relatively low, or even open so you dont understeer.
in between, just go inbetween those 2 extremes.



for the rear, i find it best for a all wheel drive car to have a lower then normal locking, but still enough to not lose power on a tight corner, and still give the slight controlled oversteer you need to stay in control and comfortable.

any other questions, or need clarifying?

the first part about the torque split, and the front/back torque was kinda just what i could quickly think, but the how to set the rest of the locking in the front and the back was well thought out, but still not be too correct, as i prefer xrt, and dont really ever race the fxr.

rb4 differentials
(4 posts, started )
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