fixed, my bad didnt see those
Session AND SERVER of Incident: Qualifying
Lap AND MPR timecode of incident (or session time or UTC Time of Day): ~4 minutes remaining on period
Car(s) involved: 51, 2
Location of Incident: Turns 6 & 7
Brief Description of Incident: 51 stays on track after his fast laps and has an issue that impedes with 2's 2nd hotlap
Session AND SERVER of Incident: Feature Race
Lap AND MPR timecode of incident (or session time or UTC Time of Day): Lap 4
Car(s) involved: 16, 2
Location of Incident: Turn 9
Brief Description of Incident: bit optimistic pass here running me into the wall
Session AND SERVER of Incident: Feature Race
Lap AND MPR timecode of incident (or session time or UTC Time of Day): Lap 6
Car(s) involved: 18, 2
Location of Incident: Turn 8
Brief Description of Incident: 18 defends but lifts off right in front of 2 face without any time/room to react
Lap AND MPR timecode of incident (or session time or UTC Time of Day): ~4 minutes remaining on period
Car(s) involved: 51, 2
Location of Incident: Turns 6 & 7
Brief Description of Incident: 51 stays on track after his fast laps and has an issue that impedes with 2's 2nd hotlap
Session AND SERVER of Incident: Feature Race
Lap AND MPR timecode of incident (or session time or UTC Time of Day): Lap 4
Car(s) involved: 16, 2
Location of Incident: Turn 9
Brief Description of Incident: bit optimistic pass here running me into the wall
Session AND SERVER of Incident: Feature Race
Lap AND MPR timecode of incident (or session time or UTC Time of Day): Lap 6
Car(s) involved: 18, 2
Location of Incident: Turn 8
Brief Description of Incident: 18 defends but lifts off right in front of 2 face without any time/room to react
Last edited by nikopdr, .
Car: GM_SST_Tonnari
URL: https://www.lfs.net/files/vehmods/FBBD6B
URL: https://www.lfs.net/files/vehmods/FBBD6B
i would like to order one (1) reactivation please
Last edited by nikopdr, .
on a more serious note, there's some majority french teams, GUM Garage for example
nikopdr/Read and Understood
Last edited by nikopdr, .
Reason : didn't read it lol
1 and 2
edit: 34
edit2: 15
edit: 34
edit2: 15
Last edited by nikopdr, .
The pictures are enough (atleast for me) to see the faulty part (pictures 11, 12), that usually is the culprit in any logitech shifter related issue. In most cases a cleaning and checking the wire connections to the pot should be enough, i had a wire broken off on my old G25 shifter which worked until i sold it (unfortunately though i bought mine for 210 euro and got 150 euro out of it 
). From what i've heard these new shifters are somehow worse than G27, and from my experience G27 shifter is a lot sturdier than 25's due to less moving internal parts. Your shifter is still reading all the gears normally but disengaging one of them so maybe it might go away with a proper clean and checking/securing wiring.
It's not just less quality though but the shifter sold separately is probably one of the dumbest ideas Logitech came up with in my opinion, whilst keeping the wheel/pedal set at around the same prices as 27 were new. I dunno the idea behind it but the wheel sets should come with a shifter and perhaps could be sold separately alongside and maybe with a direct usb connection if people want a cheap shifter to accompany some better wheels. Oh well, can't do anything about it to be fair
I'm still rocking with the G27 as well. Funny thing is that the wheel unit failed on me so i bought another one as a spare but i've been using the pedals and shifter from the first one because they just work
). From what i've heard these new shifters are somehow worse than G27, and from my experience G27 shifter is a lot sturdier than 25's due to less moving internal parts. Your shifter is still reading all the gears normally but disengaging one of them so maybe it might go away with a proper clean and checking/securing wiring.It's not just less quality though but the shifter sold separately is probably one of the dumbest ideas Logitech came up with in my opinion, whilst keeping the wheel/pedal set at around the same prices as 27 were new. I dunno the idea behind it but the wheel sets should come with a shifter and perhaps could be sold separately alongside and maybe with a direct usb connection if people want a cheap shifter to accompany some better wheels. Oh well, can't do anything about it to be fair
I'm still rocking with the G27 as well. Funny thing is that the wheel unit failed on me so i bought another one as a spare but i've been using the pedals and shifter from the first one because they just work
Last edited by nikopdr, .
No clue why it says mcpherson, but this is the "exploded view" (dunno if thats right word sorry) of the front suspension setup on all of the 2101-2107 models
I owned a '89 2105 and a '96 2104, on the latter i changed the front axle beam due to the previous one rusting through and splitting in half on driver side near the lower control arm (see the attached pic for reason why it rusted through
)my 2105 had a 1.5 carb engine and 2104 had 1.7 with 1-point injection
2/nikopdr/Niko Puntola/FIN/Team S1DUS
depends on model year, im not actually sure but i think highest available engine for this was also the 1.7 but i can be wrong (it has almost twice the power anyways)
front is double wishbone, trailing arm works ok on rear
Rather interesting from T-Mobile to pull things like that off but seems like they have blocked UDP traffic almost completely
You can use CTRL + T to change to TCP packets in the server list before you connect to any server, hope that works instead of having to hassle with VPN just to connect to a server
You can use CTRL + T to change to TCP packets in the server list before you connect to any server, hope that works instead of having to hassle with VPN just to connect to a server
yes/77/nikopdr
Last edited by nikopdr, .
Reason : mayben't've
Cool car to look at, a lot of detail and textures are really well made. Wheels could be made up to par with the rest of the model though 
The main issue i have with this car is the driveability, i do not know if your rear suspension type is the best way to replicate the suspension setup that the real car has, during compression it seems like the camber changes too much. Certainly goes the right way as the lower it goes the more negative it should be but dunno, it doesn't look as natural when you drop the car a few times in pit menu Open diff is also propably the worst thing you can put on this car as it makes many things way more unpredictable such as getting one tyre fire out of exits in turns and under braking if you happen to turn in it becomes a twitchy mess that needs constant sawing with the wheel to stay under control. Those things cause the car to run out of optimal tyre temps so fast that these issues multiply. But yeah, i've no clue if it is the best way to replicate the original.
I was told the car didn't really have any other differentials and that much i can understand why it is limited to open diff only, maybe in the future if its possible to limit differentials into other types you could try viscous diff instead which is sort of an open diff with preload. It retains many of the charasteristics of the open diff but with the preload it keeps at least some power on the tyre with grip so you actually dont light up the inner tyre every time you want to make a turn
Lastly, the hitbox LOD causes issues. Currently it has an angled front and rear with the front being lower than the rear of the hitbox, causing any type of front to rear contact to lift the front car up a bit and when you do this online the cars desync a bit and can cause glitchy hits. I don't know if it can be seen on the vid above but i had one incident where i only barely touched another cars bumper and was sent into a 360 spin. Bumpdrafting was also of course, out of the question and i am willing to bet you could bumpdraft these in real life with absolutely no worry at all Flat surface on both rear and front up to the bumper level would be optimal solution for this.
The main issue i have with this car is the driveability, i do not know if your rear suspension type is the best way to replicate the suspension setup that the real car has, during compression it seems like the camber changes too much. Certainly goes the right way as the lower it goes the more negative it should be but dunno, it doesn't look as natural when you drop the car a few times in pit menu
Open diff is also propably the worst thing you can put on this car as it makes many things way more unpredictable such as getting one tyre fire out of exits in turns and under braking if you happen to turn in it becomes a twitchy mess that needs constant sawing with the wheel to stay under control. Those things cause the car to run out of optimal tyre temps so fast that these issues multiply. But yeah, i've no clue if it is the best way to replicate the original.I was told the car didn't really have any other differentials and that much i can understand why it is limited to open diff only, maybe in the future if its possible to limit differentials into other types you could try viscous diff instead which is sort of an open diff with preload. It retains many of the charasteristics of the open diff but with the preload it keeps at least some power on the tyre with grip so you actually dont light up the inner tyre every time you want to make a turn
Lastly, the hitbox LOD causes issues. Currently it has an angled front and rear with the front being lower than the rear of the hitbox, causing any type of front to rear contact to lift the front car up a bit and when you do this online the cars desync a bit and can cause glitchy hits. I don't know if it can be seen on the vid above but i had one incident where i only barely touched another cars bumper and was sent into a 360 spin. Bumpdrafting was also of course, out of the question and i am willing to bet you could bumpdraft these in real life with absolutely no worry at all
Flat surface on both rear and front up to the bumper level would be optimal solution for this.pro tip:
ctrl + right click = copy colour or slider value
shift + right click = paste colour or slider value
ctrl + right click = copy colour or slider value
shift + right click = paste colour or slider value
It's fixable depending on the attitude of the modder
Many are lazy in this regard unfortunately and theres a lot of mods where things have been skipped like for example using the autogenerated hitbox model for LOD2 which is used for shadows and cars further away from camera like in your picture.
This is true(although i wouldnt say it should be completely opposite), the mip bias slider for objects and walls affects the car models specifically. Multiplayer speedup option might affect it too but dunno since it is at 0
Many are lazy in this regard unfortunately and theres a lot of mods where things have been skipped like for example using the autogenerated hitbox model for LOD2 which is used for shadows and cars further away from camera like in your picture.
This is true(although i wouldnt say it should be completely opposite), the mip bias slider for objects and walls affects the car models specifically. Multiplayer speedup option might affect it too but dunno since it is at 0
Last edited by nikopdr, .
yes/77/nikopdr
First public version with the overhaul is updated, there's still a lot of things to re-do such as LOD2, skin mappings, skins, interior and sounds so i don't recommend doing skins for the car just yet. There is now a base endurance setup that is really easy on tyres which will be improved along the way(and improved faster depending on feedback/help).
I'll pop in an update every now and then to finish up things mentioned above and what i would really like to hear feedback about is the overall driveability of the car, or more specifically these 3 things:
- car physics and aerodynamics, can the car be considered a realistic depiction of what it's inspired by
- car accessibility and driveability, is it easy to hop in for a few laps and can you/do you want to drive it for longer than just a few laps
- default base_endu setup, is it good to drive, does it have pace, etc.
Any help is appreciated and i hope you enjoy the new version of FXV8
the scale difference is rather huge for it to be an easy cut&paste job but i'll keep that in mind for the future
I'll pop in an update every now and then to finish up things mentioned above and what i would really like to hear feedback about is the overall driveability of the car, or more specifically these 3 things:
- car physics and aerodynamics, can the car be considered a realistic depiction of what it's inspired by
- car accessibility and driveability, is it easy to hop in for a few laps and can you/do you want to drive it for longer than just a few laps
- default base_endu setup, is it good to drive, does it have pace, etc.
Any help is appreciated and i hope you enjoy the new version of FXV8
the scale difference is rather huge for it to be an easy cut&paste job but i'll keep that in mind for the future
It's temporarily taken out of public status but i'll return it there in approximately a week or so.
Haven't mentioned any of the reasons but i do hope the pictures will show what's been going on better than words can.
Some things worthy of noting in the new upcoming version:
- the scale is now about the same compared to the mid-2010s V8SC
- visual aspect is based on these now as well since the engine is also based on a 2014 season car
- i did a dumb error on the engine before and it had the real life car's RPM limit as the peak RPM, fixed now
- frame, suspension and aerodynamics are rebuilt and refined, the car now doesnt get on 3 wheels under braking as often as it used to before, it can corner slightly better but it is still easy to oversteer out of turn exits (imo, like it should be)
- default setup is starting to get fast and worthy to use in races
LFSW name: nikopdr
In-game name: sidus unite
Full team name: yes motorsports
Nation: winland
In-game name: sidus unite
Full team name: yes motorsports
Nation: winland
Last edited by nikopdr, .
77/nikopdr/FZR
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG