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Logitech DFP and Momo Problems
(206 posts, started )
#1 - Gunn
Logitech DFP and Momo Problems
It is not uncommon for mass-produced devices with moving parts to harbour a few gremilins and Logitech controllers are no exception.

There are a few issues which many Logitech users have in common and some may be addressed by applying software patches or using new drivers and software written for just this purpose.

While some problems may be hardware or design issues (therefore can't be fixed by software), others may be rectified by trying the software fixes available.

If your controller shows signs of a shifting centre for example, you can try the official Logitech fix for that problem. Before you post your Logitech problems on the Live For Speed Forums please check out the Wingman Team Web Site first to see if others have had the same problems you are having. Try the new drivers and other fixes that relate to your controller and see if you can solve some of the common problems that other people also have with their controller.
Other utilities can be found on the Wingman Team site including DX Tweak2 which works for other controllers too, not just Logitech ones.

Please visit the site and try to fix your problems. This may save several similar topics being created here every time someone experiences a typical fault. Many people have reported that their controller issues were solved by patching their software or updating to newer versions. If all else fails then contact Logitech for a replacement controller (if your warranty has not yet expired).

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Hardware problems:
There are a few issues that can be identified that may lead to an under-performing controller. If your controller is still covered by the manufacturer's warranty it is wise to enquire about a replacement. Pulling your controller to pieces, or even removing one screw, will void your warranty so consider whether or not repairs are worth doing before becoming Dr Frankenstein. If you have no choices left then try THIS link. Although the site features a Momo, the information can be easily applied to the DFP as well. Replacement *pots, springs etc are not available seperately. Special lubricant (grease) is used inside the controllers and you should be able to buy some from an electronics or hobby store. Normal lubricants are unsuitable and may corrode the plastic itself.

- Try the software fixes listed above before assuming that you have a hardware problem.
- If you are still covered by warranty, seek a replacement wheel from the manufacterer rather than repairing or modifying your controller.
- If you dismantle or repair your controller you do so at your own risk. Damage to the controller or your person is your reponsibility.

Don't forget to check our hardware section for more discussion on wheels and other controllers.

*Pot: Nickname for potentiometer. This is a small device used in analogue wheel/pedal or joystick that measures the movement of the wheel or pedal and sends signals to the PC so that your action can be reflected in the software.

Quote from Gunn :
If your controller shows signs of a shifting centre for example, you can try the official Logitech fix for that problem. Wingman Team Web Site

Sorry for making a fuss
I have a shifting centre problem, and I don't really know which fix to download from the Wingman site.
I assume it should be one of these, but which? None of the descriptions on the site fit my problem exactly. Sorry if this is a stupid question/or if I'm posting in the wrong place.

Logitech® MOMO® Racing Centering Fix
MOMO® Center Adjustment Utility
Clear Calibration Utility
DX Deadzone Utility
#3 - Gunn
Try the first one, it is supposed to automatically fix the problem. If it doesn't, then I suggest uninstalling the patch and trying option 2.

The 2nd one helps you to manually fix the problem.

The 3rd is to clear calibration data (works the same as unplugging your pedals or wheel, calibration is reset to defaults)

The 4th is for setting dead zones, but you can use DX Tweak 2 for that, a much more useful tool in general.

It's been some time since I read about all of that stuff so please don't be mad if my descriptions are not 100% accurate.
Thanks for the answer. Just one more question regarding that fix:

"Extract the program from the ZIP file.
Add the program to you startup group, passing the parameter "0" as below.

MOMORacingFixCenter 0 "

Where do I put that parameter?

In the shortcut properties? illepall
Another good site for actually getting inside to fix Momo problems.

http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_m.html
I just had to recently get inside the pedals and wrap the throttle pedal shaft with electrical tape. I was getting throttle spikes. Momo is 6 months old. I also need to tear the wheel apart per above website and fix the wheel shaft having play in it.
#6 - Gunn
I repaired my MOMO pedals no less than 14 times over a 9 month period before finally throwing them into the corner. They've been gutted, drilled, chopped, bashed, shaved, filed... you name it.

As for the centre fix, it made my controller worse so I don't bother with it now.

You can only try these software fixes, they can help to address some people's problems, but at the end of the day most problems with Logitech pedals are hardware issues. The design is really quite good (I've been designing pedals for several months now and it isn't easy to put everything into a compact space) but the materials and engineering are totally low-budget. Cheap components and way too much movement where there should be none cause wear and tear resulting in a premature end to your pedals. The wheels themselves seem quite robust, unfortunately they're getting smaller (the DFP wheel must have been designed for a 6 year old girl, I even get a sore chest from using the MOMO which is a larger wheel than the DFP). Apart from saving your money for a really good quality controller there's not much else to do except prepare yourself for repairs and replacement. I certainly wouldn't consider a DFP to be value for money but there is little competition in that price space unfortunately. The MOMO is no longer produced but some stock remains here and there.

The king of all was the old Red Momo, things went downhill from there as I imagine profits went up. Perhaps the most promising aspect currently is the DFP's 900 degree mode, which although is way too much to seem realistic for racing can be used in 720 mode which is really a great thing.

Logitech seem willing to replace most people's pedals if they are under warranty (and sometimes even when they are not). So if you have real issues, go and get a new set from Logitech while you still can. Revision B pedals are now being shipped with DFPs and they contain metal pots which is a welcome, but small, improvement.

If someone does eventually produce a quality product to compete in the same price range they should easily capture the lion's share of the market.
Quote from Gunn :I repaired my MOMO pedals no less than 14 times over a 9 month period before finally throwing them into the corner. They've been gutted, drilled, chopped, bashed, shaved, filed... you name it.

.....most problems with Logitech pedals are hardware issues. The design is really quite good (I've been designing pedals for several months now and it isn't easy to put everything into a compact space) but the materials and engineering are totally low-budget. Cheap components and way too much movement where there should be none cause wear and tear resulting in a premature end to your pedals.

Gunn, I have the similiar problem with my MOMO pedals maybe. The problem is that the gas pedal doesn't return to the full released position, causing the game reading the 1-15% throttle from it. When I opened my pedals to explore the problem myself, I have found that the pot seems to be twisted by a small degree, when properly sitting in its place. When I removed it and manually turned, DXTweak2 confirmed smooth values with correct min and max margins reached. Just after putting it back in place and checking by pressing the pedal, DXTweak2 revealed that the pot cannot reach the zero value. Or only very rarely.
All and all I guess the problem might be in the not so perfect pot fitting. Some forum posts recommend the use of glue here - Mozso at his site doesn't recommend it, to avoid a too big strain on the potmeter.

Another imperfection I have found and been thinking of fixing, is the questionable gas pedal movement in its shaft. While the brake pedal feels great, thanks to double springs perhaps, the gas pedal shows all kinds of sideways and other unwanted movements. Mozso fixed it with a tape - I'm not so sure how long such fix will work, since there are no bearings and the friction will damage the tape IMO....


As you can see, I desperately need to hear your experiences. Eventhough you basically recommended to throw them to the corner ( ), I would love to hear your tips to fix my gas pedal.

Thanks in advance to Gunn or anybody else who can help.
#8 - Gunn
Glue is not recommended. Logitech seem to have a good reason for the movement of the pot in it's "holder", strangely logic says that the reason is the tapered pedal "axle", the same issue causes the movement in the throttle pedal that you mention and indeed the extra spring on the brake makes the brake more solid. So it seems the movement around the shaft and of the pot is for some reason (why the taper otherwise?). The problem for the pot is undue wear. The problem in game is that the pot may lift out of its "holder" and the auto calibration kicks in all the time reporting an erroneous range: this leads to either a throttle that never goes to 100% or sometimes it is already at, say 10%, with the pedal in the relaxed position.

Making the pot more firm in its "holder" does correct the problem of it popping out, but gluing it makes it too rigid and can cause damage. Notice the small lug on the bottom of the pot? Mine has now snapped off my throttle pot. Using folded paper to help retain the pot firmly works fairly well but is a delicate job. Once in a while you may need to replace the paper as it does get compressed and the pot loosens again.

In DXTweak2 you should be able to force the pot to a correct range, but first try the following experiment: If the pot is snug in it's holder and is functioning properly then it should be able to be calibrated properly. Without DXTweak running, unplug the USB cable and plug it in again, then move the wheel and pedals to their extremities, then try the pedals in game. Is the range now correct? Calibrate inside LFS to be sure.

Sometimes a pot can get dirty or damaged and some of the range becomes unavailable. This would not be the most common situation but does happen.

So you have one problem that is due to physical design and a potential problem either now or later with a damaged or dirty pot.

- Reducing movement around the pedal axle should reduce the action of pot lifting from its holder. Some people use a layer of thin tape to limit movement (see link in first post). This won't be a magic cure but should help to alleviate lateral pedal movement (an extra spring would be nice).

- Reducing pot movement by using paper or some other restrictive means will help to prevent the shifting range problem but be aware that extra stress may be placed on the little lug that holds the pot in place.

I always recommend a warranty replacement if possible. While many have had success in home-made repairs, there are risks of damaging your gear. And always be mindful of safety to yourself around tools and electricity.

I hope this helps you out Rayfighter, it can be frustrating on the track. A quick fix may be to unplug your pedals from your wheel, and then plug back in again, but this only resets the calibration data and does not stop the problem.

*To all those who are going to throw away their old Momo or DFP pedals because they are beyond repair, please send all of your old pots and springs to my house!
Quote from RAYfighter :
Another imperfection I have found and been thinking of fixing, is the questionable gas pedal movement in its shaft. While the brake pedal feels great, thanks to double springs perhaps, the gas pedal shows all kinds of sideways and other unwanted movements. Mozso fixed it with a tape - I'm not so sure how long such fix will work, since there are no bearings and the friction will damage the tape IMO....

I did the electrical tape thing, but instead of tape, I read somewhere or heard from someone that they trimmed a strip from an aluminum pop can and used that on the shaft. I imagine that would work much better as it wouldn't wear through like the tape would.
#10 - Gunn
I would think the wall of the can would be too thick. But if it weren't then that may work. Aluminum could wear out the plastic though so perhaps some care would need to be taken with the sharp edges and burrs first?

Remember though that the shaft is tapered, you won't get a perfect result with either method.
real problems, real troublesome.
Well, if the racing center fix does nothing but make my settings completely out of whack inside LFS, but fine in the calibration screen, and the momotweak.exe doesnt even detect my momo wheel, does that mean that i have a serious hardware problem?

I am quite fed up with this drifting center problem, i slide out ALL the time when i am doing rally and i need to use very rigid and fast counter-steering motions to keep my car drifting the way i want it to. Is this sudden motion and constant fighting against the motors the cause of the problem, in other games i dont really slide out all that much. In richard burns rally my car basically just slides by itsself at a certain point, you dont really need to counter-steer, just drive carefully.

I am thinking of writing a nasty letter demanding them to replace my MOMO wheel if i cannot correct this problem.

the "FIX" for the drifting center, the first one on the gadgets section of the wingman team site does nothing but completely scramble all the codes inside the game of some sort. I enable it, enter LFS and goto options to recalibrate my wheel, and i bress my brake and the axis indicator says im turning left, i hit the gas it does the same. and the axis indicators literally just randomly move and whatever.

Please, if anyone at all can PM me or email me an indepth way to fix this drifting center problem without the need to take apart my MOMO wheel, i would be greatful. I am very technically inclined on computers and even just a brief run-down of what i may be able to do to get it to work correctly would be enough for me to work through it.

Any help whatsoever concerning this issues would be greatly appreciated as i am becoming fed up with playing a game that has me holding the wheel 30 degrees to the left just to keep the wheel on the screen in the center to go down a straight away.

Thank you very much.
My DFP has never suffered this problem, and I don't think I've heard others getting it either? Yours is a Momo right?

Are you still under warrenty? Maybe get a replacement, Ebay the new one and get a DFP. The pedals are maybe slighly better due to the new pots too.

Also, have you visited wingmanteam to ask there?

http://www.wingmanteam.com/discus/
#13 - Gunn
Quote from dontsimon :My DFP has never suffered this problem, and I don't think I've heard others getting it either? Yours is a Momo right?

Are you still under warrenty? Maybe get a replacement, Ebay the new one and get a DFP. The pedals are maybe slighly better due to the new pots too.

Also, have you visited wingmanteam to ask there?

http://www.wingmanteam.com/discus/

The DFP pedals are identical in construction and components to the Momo. Only a recent revision replaces the the original pots with ones that are marginally better.
Momo Help Me!
Well, i have no receipt, so i have no warranty, fancy that, ive been sold a MOMO RACING already one year old, i bet this sucker has been taken back alot of the time.

It is a shame, but i dont really mind, i have a job, ill get a DFP one day, gotta keep it on the down-low, the wife will kill me. thats no joke.

If anyone has any SOFTWARE fix at all or a HARDWARE fix for this 'DRIFTING CENTER' problem, please direct me to a website or anything.

I read somewhere if i disable a centering sensor inside the wheel, it fixes the problem, i dont know if that is for the MOMO RACING or another MOMO version, but i really need something to get rid of this problem. Its so annoying that it keeps happening, none of the wingman software fixes do anything,ive tried them all, and they dont do a single thing.

I also read somewhere about tweaking the settings of the wheel could possibly fix this, although i dont know what i am doing when using tools like DXTWEAK2 and DXTWEAK, and the MOMOTWEAK doesnt even work for some reason.

LOGITECH SUCKS.

Are there any other 900 degree wheels on the market, besides the DFP, i think i might want to check one of those out b efore going with LOGITECH, or does anyone have a fix for my problem, or can direct me to a hardware fix or something like that.

My problem is the DRIFTING CENTER. This makes it very difficult to race with precision and accuracy, infact it makes it very frustrating to even play the game.

Ive noticed that RICHARD BURNS RALLY does not give me this problem, is it possible the code for the wheel is different from each game to the next, making this problem a software conflict?

Thanks Daniel
#15 - ysu
Quote from DanielJE :
LOGITECH SUCKS.

I wouldn't say that. I have a DFP (rev B) , I have logitech keyboard, mouse, all excellent quality. The dfp is a very precise tool.
Quote from DanielJE :
Ive noticed that RICHARD BURNS RALLY does not give me this problem, is it possible the code for the wheel is different from each game to the next, making this problem a software conflict?

If it does not appear in all games, it's definitely not a hardware issue. Yes, each game uses/reads the wheel differently. But if that's a driver or other problem....
Wheel clamps
Hi. also having momo probs.

I have a momo racing and the two small clamps underneath dont unfold so i can fix to my desk. I dont think the screw clamp will hold, what can I do?
Quote from anttt69 :Hi. also having momo probs.

I have a momo racing and the two small clamps underneath dont unfold so i can fix to my desk. I dont think the screw clamp will hold, what can I do?

Are you new to this wheel? If so, then there are caps covering the screws for the clamps. They are located on top. Just pull off the caps, then you can unscrew the clamps, mount to desk, and tighten the screws.
I had the usual calibration problems with my Momo Racing pedals, I tried asking the Logitech tech support if it would be possible to disable the autocalibration, but instead of providing such they promised to send me new pedals However those never arrived, so I asked again and they sent me an all new wheel for no cost, without even asking any kind of proof of purchase other than the serial number of the wheel. So I'd recommend contacting them if you have any kind of problems...

Also, the manual of the new wheel was labeled "Rev.B", I have heard the B revision DFP's with the metal pots are marked the same way, so I suspect they might have done the same thing for the Momo Racing, although I haven't opened the pedals to verify this.
Tutorial: how to disassemble the red momo force
Hi,

This tutorial was very helpful when I had to disassemble my red momo force:

http://www.murchisons.net/f1/layout/Momo%20how%20to.htm

With this I was able to disassemble my wheel, put the forcefeedback motor in place again, close it up and start racing again. Saved my day!

Hope it will be helpful for you too :-)
I have a DFP, and whenever the wheel is central, it jerks and twitches from side to side.
It is not a simulation of the cars behaviour, I'd go into detail, but i'd rather just say it isn't, i'm positive. As soon as the wheel is no longer centered, the problem stops. I have the force feedback set to 200 in LFS, and have tried reducing it to get rid of the problem, but it has to be set down to below 25 before it is unnoticable, at which point the cars feel hugely over assissted. I was wondering if this has been encountered by anyone else?
I really don't want to have to turn my FF right down, but the straights are just so aggrevating when the wheel is twitching constantly. Even when parked up, it turns left and right, leaving my poor driver flailing his virtual arms.
In the wingman profiler, I have most of the settings on full also, except the centering srping is on 0% I think, im at work at the moment, but will check later, ive tried toying with these ad nauseum, and have just tried to deal with the twitching. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Sorry for the long post.
I just try to deal the the jerking from side to side when going in a straight, so when you find out the fix make sure to tell me
With the jerking side to side, first make sure you have "remove deadzones" checked or yes in the wheel options (in LFS). If you still get it, I'd think you're using too much force strength. But check the deadzone option.
OK, i'll try that, if that doesn't work i'll try all the FF settings again.

thanks

theblackrabbi, i'll let you know if anything good happens!
thanks I would like to know. Just becuse I love the force effects, but in order to make the shaking go away it has to be turned way too far down. Well it's okay I guess but if it was possible to go away and still have the effects on high then it would be even greater. Let me know what happens.

Logitech DFP and Momo Problems
(206 posts, started )