Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Say I set camber to 0 and take the car out for a spin and read the live camber during a turn, is that what I need to set the camber to in the garage for maximum grip/contact or do I have this all wrong?

The way i understand it, live camber is the actual angle of the tire relative to the road, whereas static camber is the angle relative
to the suspension. The difference between both is caused by suspension geometry. Raising/lowering the car will change live camber
in just about any suspension. With a solid axle however, both SHOULD change together.

So what you want to do is set up live camber by changing the static camber, live camber is the result.
This is where the live suspension view can be usefull in getting some real numbers. It shows the actual angle
of the tire relative to the road at all times. This is what's really going on. Static camber by itself is meaningless.

It's always a good idea to save a replay and view it in very slow mode, so you can observe the camber better

It depends - I've always found I want the inner bars a little bit higher than the outer bars for best grip. But if you set it so that in the fastest/hardest corner it's 'perfect' it'll be less than perfect in any other corner, and tend to wear/heat the inside edges vastly more.

This is the compromise that takes time to find, and longer races demand a different compromise from hotlapping.

Quote from thisnameistaken :

Related question: When viewing the little bars above the tyres during a corner, should they be level for the most grip?

Just tweaking a setup now and it seems I have to apply a *lot* of camber to get perfect grip at the highest G load. Is that what the setup should be like?

Well no. Usually the live camber on the live suspension thing always gives readouts of very high positive camber. At first, when I saw this, I thought my wheel's camber was always way too low and I either needed to raise the camber incredibly high and/or stiffen up the anti-roll a lot. But that isn't the case.

That really isn't your 'contact patch'. The outside of your tires aren't the only thing that is contacting the road (as positive camber would suggest).

I still don't understand why it always goes to positive, but the general rule of thumb for everyone to use is to have the insides of the tires warmer than the outside. Just do some very fast laps while testing the setup and get the cars heat to be hotter on the inside by at least 5 - 10 degrees hotter than the middle, and you should be ok. The outside should never be warmer than the inside. And raise/lower camber settings as well as loosen/stiffen the anti-roll settings to help with getting the tires warm -- or if you have funky heat and wear on the outside tires . Both the camber and anti-roll should be finely tuned in unison, but do one at a time.

Usually FWD cars have stiff anti-roll in front and low to medium camber in the front for most tracks. But if the track is something like Westhill or has long highspeed corners, your tires will get hot on the outside very quickly, so you need to raise the camber but only touch the anti-roll a little bit.

For RWD cars, usually the rear end uses higher camber than the front and has lower anti-roll (below medium). But it is all down to how you drive, and how loose or tight you want the car to feel That's why RWD is the best anyways

They represent the load on the tyre do they?