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The Ultimate Cockpit List
(69 posts, started )
I had not seen those pictures. Thanks!
Quote from Technique :Here's my thoughts on some of the units out there (note: I have not tested any of them in real life). With several of the cockpits, it appears that the pedals are at the same height as the seat base. I've never driven a Formula car. The only thing I've driven with that sort of layout is one of those corporate go-karts. In a cart, my left foot is fixed on the brake, and right is fixed on the right pedal. In a cart, I don't have to worry about heal toe downshifting or moving my feet at all. It seems like it would be uncomfortable (or maybe a better word is unnatural) to attempt to operate a 3 pedal unit in this configuration. The nixim, virtual roadster, and several others appear to have this sort of layout.


Another complaint I have with just about all the cockpits is that they're all designed for 99% of the pedal units out there - the standard floor mounted pedals In my quest for absolute realism, I bought an overhang design. I can't blame them for this. Overhang style pedals are very rare and designing for them doesn't make sense $$ wise.
So in summary, I want my cockpit to be a clone of a sports car seating position. The perfect seating position is different for everybody. For example, in my Miata (or MX-5 for the rest of the world), all the controls (wheels, pedals, shifter, seat, ebrake) are perfect for my body size, arm length, etc. On the other hand, the position of the shifter in my RX-8 is too far backwards, the ebrake is too far away, etc. I think in order to properly emulate my car's cockpit, I would have to build one myself.

I would describe the seating and pedal position in my Nixim as a the perfect sports car driving position.
Heel and toe driving is no different to that of your Mazda or Porche or Ferrari - heck I am using a G25 and H&T is second nature especially in games like GPL or GTL.

What makes H&T more difficult, is not having a progressive pressure to the brake pedal to work from, not your actual seating position - though with rubbish pedals it may help if you had an unrealistic driving position - like sitting as if you were drivng a truck.

The quality and feel of your pedals are the make or break for heel and toe driving, - not your actual seating position.
Quote from Polyracer :The quality and feel of your pedals are the make or break for heel and toe driving, - not your actual seating position.

I do not agree with you.

I was wrote next text 06.01.2008 http://forum.racesimcentral.co ... p=3664249&postcount=5

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I am the designer and constructor (inventor) of Rinoseat Revolution. http://www.rinoseats.com/images/head1.gif
I studied simrace seats for almost 3 years. http://www.rinoseats.com/images/rinoseats11.jpg

Heel and toe technique of driving was one of the most important thing when I was developing Rinoseat.

For using this tehniques of driving, you must UNLOAD YOUR LEGS AND FOOT WITH PROPERLY POSITION OF ANGLE PEDALS PLATE!!!

Good simrace seat must have the following options:

1. long seat base (you unload your legs)
2. long side suport seat base (we discovered that you must have support when you push your pedals with heel and toe and that you rotate your foot)
3. proper angle of seat base (you get the feeling, that your legs are levitating)
4. small thickness of sponge under your knees (what we discovered from praxis was that your brain must feel one fixed position on your legs, one point of your legs must be fixed so that you could push pedals)
5. posibility (an option) that you can extend your legs without moving up your knees (even in case that you are 200cm height)

Quote from Technique :...it appears that the pedals are at the same height as the seat base...

6. properly set height diference (distance) betwen your seat base and pedal plate
7. posibility that you can change angle of your pedal (correct angle is VERY IMPORTANT for your foot)
8. strong support for your pedal plate without flexing it (when you push your pedals, you produce really big force)
9. free space between your legs under knees

You can see all of this on this picture of Rinoseat:
http://www.rinoseats.com/images_share/seatpos1s.jpg

There is a video of heel and toe technique with Rinoseat:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=AbfLCZ4QrS8
http://youtube.com/watch?v=A77dylVLsoU (on the end)

You can ask driver shown on this video anything about that. He used Rinosat for the last month with special attention on heel and toe technique (his review)
...Also I noted that my skills regarding pedals control has improved ALOT - because of my legs resting freely on the seat, and not floating in the air which is case if I'm driving on my regular chair...
http://forum.racesimcentral.com/show...2&postcount=33
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Of course, you must have quality pedals, like you must have quality seating position, too. (G25 is fine, like you see)


P.S. We are preparing a special video with Rinoseat & Richard Burns Rally (Heel and toe technique of driving)
Quote from Polyracer :The quality and feel of your pedals are the make or break for heel and toe driving, - not your actual seating position.

I agree that proper pedal placement and pedal feel is important. That's why after looking at all the pedal choices out there I decided to buy the CST's. For what it's worth I've never sat in a nixim cockpit so I can't argue that it does not have an ideal driving position. But if my goal is to emulate a car, I think it's important that the relative position of the pedals, wheel, shifter are as close as possible to an actual car - even if real cars' cockpits have safety/cost constraints and are not ideal.

I can't speak for everyone here of course. Not everyone is trying to emulate a car. Some may want an F1 style cockpit, others might want something small and portable, etc
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Attached images
Test weight  1.jpg
It looks like I opened up a can of worms. Let's try to keep this discussion civil

People buying the rinoseat probably aren't spending thousands of dollars on wheels and pedals. It fills a niche for a cheap cockpit. Shipping to the US for the base nixim alone costs more than the rinoseat itself!
I dont think its fair to compare the rinoseat with more expansive seats. Rinoseats purpose was to be easy to set up for a race and then take it away when not needed anymore.
And by that it does a very good joob. No doubt bout that.

I think you have to put different seats into different classes. Simple as that.

By the way, whats up with "my chassis can take nearly half a ton on the wheelmount"
Is that something really needed on a playseat. Or is it if you hit a wall in 200k/hm and the rigg can stand the inpact or somthin
yes sorry if I come on a bit strong there, perhaps could have worded things a bit better.
"- image shows that my chassis can take nearly half a ton on the wheelmount"
Has a slightly different context I think, -
Quote :Is that something really needed on a playseat.

No, being able to take that sort of weight is - probably over the top I agree, as I said before.
Its not about the weight carrying ability, but the weight does indicate strength and most of all stiffness and If I want a realistic feel from my controls then they have to be fixed to something as stiff as a real car body - or as near as possible.

That way, when I ditch my G25 for some high end stuff, the feel of realism will be much richer.
That whole wheelmount assembly is very heavy to, further enhancing the feel of solidity and realistic mass, - so yes to me - it is something you need.

I'm thinking of getting an ECCI control set but I've not made my mind up yet,
Users tell me go for it, but I dunno without FF, because without FF then I won't get the best from the chassis.
So I'm thinking whilst I'm getting on with my reasonably good G25, I'll just hang on for a while and see what new stuff develops.

Maybe sometime I may get a chance to test a VPP wheel, we'll see...
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.... look what I've started!

I think it's a good thing everyone's passionate about the products they sell and own, but I don't want this thread to get locked. I think there's enough info about the rinoseat in this thread to keep me busy reading for a few years.. let's give some owners of other cockpits a chance to share their experience with us.
I ended up building my own cockpit. I could post pictures of the build, but I am not sure what the point would be... It works perfectly for me, it's very, very cheap, but you can't go out and buy one.

One major design item I really must point out -- cockpits that have a pole coming up between your legs. This is NOT a good format when you want to practise your left foot braking skills.
Quote from Technique :.... look what I've started!

You started something good, but unfortunately someone misunderstood the spirit of this thread and decided to turn it into a useless bash festival.
Quote from Polyracer :yes sorry if I come on a bit strong there, perhaps could have worded things a bit better.

I did apologise for my outburst
I finally got around to updating the list. Thanks for your submissions Renato.
Hi,

I once saw a website wich sold Office Chairs with a bucket racing seat on them.

Anyone know where to find these? Thanks
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(Elderado) DELETED by Elderado : wrong place
Quote from 128MB :Hi,

I once saw a website wich sold Office Chairs with a bucket racing seat on them.

Anyone know where to find these? Thanks

Also adapters and wheels are sold separately, so you can fit almost any real seat
Added force dynamics 301 and 401 (how did I forget those!?) and a new racing chair - Precise Racing Chair.
#48 - Riel
I am só satisfied with my setup, my friends just come over to race.

Got a Rinoseat and a G25 about 1 meter distance of a nice, white wall, and a MT1050 bought cheap on ebay projecting 1,50 meters of cockpit in front of my nose

I tell you, racing is a lot of fun for in total € 800 euro's.
#49 - Juls
I found last week this very affordable MDF cockpit. Around 100 euros and you need a seat. On racesimcentral customers seemed happy with this product.
http://www.speed-master.net/

The Ultimate Cockpit List
(69 posts, started )
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