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Pedal display is a tiny bit off
(7 posts, started )
Pedal display is a tiny bit off
Not a big deal, but there's a slight overlap between the fbb bar and the pedals. It's about 100 of the range value (1/20), which makes it difficult to see if your potentiometers are glitching out like mine were (i know, i should clean them out).
Figured out it should be worthwhile to post this, placing the axis bars a tiny bit higher should fix it.



Btw, in the gif i'm pressing the pedal in the effort to illustrate my previous issue. You can see the gas pedal still being wonky Frown
Attached images
checkthebrakes----ezgif.com-optimize.gif
Give WD40 a shot, and spray it well into the pedal pots, should be fine.
#3 - Racon
I don't know about DD wheels specifically, but I know WD40 can really mess with some electronics. In the radio-control circles I was in (way, way back), it was always referred to as "servo killer" rather than by name, even by the model shops selling it. (It didn't kill them dead, but it made them twitchy and nothing would fix it).
I agree that there are more specific sprays for electrical contact cleaning like WD60, however I've been using WD40 on old and noisy pots for about 10 years now, no issues what so ever.
** Best answer **
It's not actually an overlap or graphical error.

For better or for worse, the actual explanation is this:

In game, the value displayed is the value sent to the car as an input, while in the options screen the value displayed is a sort of raw value.

Here's the part that might be controversial: The value sent to the car only uses 90% of the pedal's range. That is, the value sent into the car goes from 0 to 1 as the controller axis goes from 5% to 95%.

This is the case for Throttle, Brake and Handbrake. The 5% margins may sound quite large but I think this was set a very long time ago to avoid any possibility of an issue from controllers not producing the full output range. I don't know about these days but that was common in the past.

For Clutch it's different, it goes from 0 to 1 as the controller goes from 5% to 65%. This is to make sure the biting point is a significant distance away from fully floored clutch pedal. So the clutch must be lifted 35% to start pulling. Again, set a very long time ago to make the clutch have a reasonably realistic characteristic, although in reality the biting point varies between vehicles.


Final statement:

It's not really a bug at all, but there may be a case for an improvement suggestion to be made.

For purposes of checking your potentiometers I think you should look only in the controls screen, not in game.
Thanks everyone for answering! I didn't know the pedal bars shown were different. It makes sense now why the FFB display disappears whilst being in the menu (because there's no Force Feedback).
I'm increasing the deadzone then, until i open the pedals for their routine cleanup or i buy hall sensors.
OK, in Test Patch E9 the in-game axes display now matches the the one in the controller screen.

The dead zones I described are included by default but are now user controllable.

https://www.lfs.net/forum/thread/106967
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(Latvian Video) DELETED by Latvian Video : wrong thread lol

Pedal display is a tiny bit off
(7 posts, started )
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