Sometimes WR are not the best...
its better making a setup for long race and not doing only a hotlap, its better taking more fuel and doing stings of 10 or 15 laps. And you will improve for sure...

P.S: you will enjoy so much more if you use shifter and clucth but your times will get slower and will have to care so much care on overheating the clucth.

+1
take a SSD 60 Gigas will be good put there only operating system, LFS and netkar pro (if you are iracing player(SSD will have to be at least 80 or better 120Gigas).
And will be a nice improve in performance in your system..

Quote from jnr89 :

hey, forum (RWJ´s style) hehe, i was messing around with some buddies, i saw someone called stig (i know there is a lot of stigs in the lfs world) but man they send me some setups and inmediatly my Average Best goes down to 1:34!!!

my experience tells me, killing almost all the oversteering helps to cut time, some oversteering is good along the braking because it helps to get the clipping point too.

i can see some changes in the differentials, but dont have so much knowledge to explain it. i think a good FWD differential is one like the integra DC2 TYPE R, it is so SWEET (stock)!

sorry for my bad english!

thanks for the feedback!!

One missing point?, i dont understand how your profile created on DEC 2007 and still are demo??? (if you like the game buy a license) and you talk like you are playing to all tracks and cars..

Maybe i'm wrong and you are licensed player???.

Best regards Clock.

[quote=AndroidXP;866839]The physics in single and multi player are the same, so I doubt either of them is different regarding this problem.


I think that the physics could be little difference in single and multi player..I said that because in multiplayer i'm always little faster than in single player....

My best lap in Multi : 1:21,090
My best lap in Single or hotlap 1:21,52

But the problem for me is the clutch, not that other question...


Quote from JeffR:

I feel that the time spent implementing the clutch burning in LFS would have been better spent on other aspects of the game. Since auto-cut and auto-blip with auto-clutch would have made clutch burning moot, those features were removed, and now the players that have controllers that can use shifting macros have an even more unfair advantage over those that don't.


I'm totally agree with that, i dont understand why Scawen permits that the most reallistic driving (shifter and clutch pedal) has this dissadvantage over the paddle or secuential gear and Scriptsss..
I think that secuential and paddle gear have to be slowed down to give similar times to H shifter and pedal clucth... (I remember when i was driving in secuential and i were 0.8 to 1.2 second for lap faster, and never had the possibility to missmatch the gear...) i think that point is so important and have to change in lfs (Everybody needs to have the same opportunity to run faster).


AndroidXP you are right sometimes i have back full throttle when i release the clutch but JeffR has explained so well, When i were driving real motorbikes, you had to change how i was changing, if you gear up in a corner and when you release the clutch you arent putting some throttle your will spin...( and in real cars, you have a delay from the time you press the throttle and RPM goes up...)
P.D: I never burned a motorbike clutch, (i were driving in supersport (Yamaha R6), and with 2 strokes engines (125 cc, 250cc Aprilia's)

I live in Mallorca, and in summer is so hot, the only option in summer is barefoot....that a big probemmmmm....jejeje

Nice plimsols..

Jamesisinthehouse12 I had seen you replay you dont overheat the clutch than i but your clutch is overheat too, think in a race for at least 35 laps imposible to do it (that are the laps in our league.....
And you overheat the clutch and did not were pushing hard, for going fasterrr, you were driving so calm to ensure that the clutch did not overheat, but you could not do it....

Here a replay in spr, less heat in spr, the biggest problem is in multiplayer..

Yes i only have the problem in that circuit with that UFR...Since the update Z on Y was running well....

Last edited by clockterra, Wed 16 Jul 2008, 19:43.

I think that is not necessary to lift off all throttle on gear change, only need a drop of rpm (like in real cars)..but i liff off all my foot when i change..

For that i seen maybe the problem is like you are saying in reduction
The Stig PL...(After de downhill in the big brake reduction is when overheat more the clutch).

I could not use heel and toe, because i play barefoot and without shoes is so hard to make it, i will damage my foot..

Maybe i will have to change and use autoclutch, with only two pedals brake and gas (not so real but i could add some throttle on reductions).

I will make a SPR in few moments..

I have the same problem as the person who opened the post...
I'm running with 3 pedals and H shifter..

Driving in SO5 (SO town, with UFR)..

I had overheat the clutch in less than 5 lapsss.

I dont understand why i have the clutch overheat beacuse i lift off in every change..

In reduction i dont use toe/shoe, beacuse i play with a barefoot i dont wanna to damage the pedals (with shoes)()

P.D: My wheel is the G25, with normal settings. (only shortened the end off the clutch pedal in LFS config, pushing middle is like pushing full..)..

Here is a replay of 5 laps with overheat, not really good times, is a race config..(but i were not looking on lap times, i were looking for the clutch overheat)....

I need help, this is horrible for me, i could not make the next race in the league where i were driving...(I think that scawen has to put an option to engage or desengage the over heat on clutch)
The other option is changing to paddle gears and autoclutch (i have less overheating but so few less)

Sometimes when i think in that car UFR, and clutch i wanna to throw the game for the window......"Its frustrating, and still i dont know why i overheat the clucth so easily..."...

I made my own setup for this track, and is good for 15 laps (good with the tires). But i'm so far away from the WR, i made a 1:34,11.

I tried the WR and my time goes to 1:33,25 so easily..
Anybody know how i can get that setup???
I tried it from the option of the replay "Test drive"..

Or if anybody has a good setup for that track and would like to share.....

Best Regards Clock.