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What to do about heavy front tire wearing? -> FOX
The fronttires of my FOX go very bad after only 5 rounds resulting in punctures.
Circuit: blackwood reverse. What should i change in my setup to prevent this??
Post a replay so we can see how you are driving. FOX tyres should last over 50 laps before punctures become a problem - probably a lot more.
I know blokes who did 59 laps around South City Long Reversed yesterday - R2s lasted the whole race.

Maybe you are locking up a lot.
#5 - bbman
Quote from bbman :You managed to lock up your tires every single corner, which is an achievement in itself... Horrible lines too, but that's besides the point...

Lower braking force and adjust bias to the rear...

yeah, i drive horrible, but I am an Absolute Beginner
But thanks for your tips!!
Seen your replay too,

First your set is very... beginner friendly, it understeers a bit too much.
Then your left front tyre maybe has a bit too much negative camber... you won't need this on a track that turns mainly leftward.
Last but not least your brake balance is way to much biased to the front, put it back a few notches.
Your driving style is quite smooth (apart from the awful line), but it seems like you have a brake switch, not a pedal.. are you driving with mouse? If so, you should set your break power to something lowish.

greetz

der butz
Quote from der butz :Seen your replay too,

First your set is very... beginner friendly, it understeers a bit too much.
Then your left front tyre maybe has a bit too much negative camber... you won't need this on a track that turns mainly leftward.
Last but not least your brake balance is way to much biased to the front, put it back a few notches.
Your driving style is quite smooth (apart from the awful line), but it seems like you have a brake switch, not a pedal.. are you driving with mouse? If so, you should set your break power to something lowish.

greetz

der butz

Where should the slider go to change the braking bias to the rear? Left or right?? (i know, dumb questions do not exist)
I drive with wheel...
To the left. You want to make the brake balance figure reduce.
Quote from Bob Smith :To the left. You want to make the brake balance figure reduce.

Which, according to your Setup Analyser, won't change anything at the front, unless he gets under 50 % front or lowers braking force too...
If you flatspot a lot, two things you can do to fix it... AND conserve tire heat & wear.

1) Lower your brake power and put slightly more rear bias to the brakes.

2) Decrease your camber to something -2 or less. You may think you aren't cornering faster with lower camber, but it hardly does anything to your laptimes. As long as the outside edge of your tires aren't hotter than the middle or inside of the tires, you should be fine. The simple idea behind lowering camber is that you have more contact area on the track in order to help prevent locking up. If you have too high of camber, you have a much higher chance of locking up, especially a tire that is on the inside and unloaded under heavy braking. And even if you don't flatspot your tires, less camber will have much more even wear, and the life of the tire(s) will be much longer... so you can last much longer than normal.

Also note, most people are using R2s at the highest pressures, which also makes flatspotting easier. R2s heat up too fast now in Patch Y, so lowering the pressures of the tires really won't help for racing. But you can run lower PSI R3's easily, and your flatspotting and wear is taken care of, you'll just be about half a second slower at most.
Quote from bbman :Which, according to your Setup Analyser, won't change anything at the front, unless he gets under 50 % front or lowers braking force too...

Brake balance works differently in VHPA than in LFS. It's something I need to sort out for the next version.

LFS simply multiplies by the brake balance (or one minus the brake balance) to obtain the torque at each wheel. At first I thought that was a silly way to do things but having researched things some more, LFS might be more realistic approach. Regardless of what's best, the implementation in LFS means that the max brake torque value is mislabelled.
Quote from Tweaker :Also note, most people are using R2s at the highest pressures, which also makes flatspotting easier. R2s heat up too fast now in Patch Y, so lowering the pressures of the tires really won't help for racing. But you can run lower PSI R3's easily, and your flatspotting and wear is taken care of, you'll just be about half a second slower at most.

For the GFC races we all use R2's. I run medium pressures and the tyres always last the entire 75 minutes of the race and heat up at just the right rate.

FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG