Quote from Crash Dummy :

Worst case scenario and this happens often is if your tyres are extremely grippy and 1st gear is very tall it's possible that the power of the engine and the grip of the tyres can overcome the clamping force and grip of the clutch which means when you let the clutch out you get massive slip, heat and a ruined clutch.

2nd problem many, specially new racers are facing is that when they do spin, they tend to keep throttle down, but gear is perhaps 2nd or 3rd, there is no enough power in engine to keep tires spinning so car is about to be stalled.
How ever, many of new racers are using auto-clutch, which will engage clutch so that engine won't stall, but as you keep throttle down, clutch does not go to 100% but something between (maybe 50%) as it is trying to get car moving, here happens clutch burning and it does happen rather quickly with moderate rpm and throttle floored.

So make sure that you can spin tires with 1st gear even with hot tires if you are going to keep throttle floored when spinning and also make sure you shift down to 1st when spinning, or better yet is not to keep throttle floored when spinning.

Better yet. Don't spin at all

wtf RL clutch is unrealistic too http://youtube.com/watch?v=h1z_RUIGz3k :mad: !11 I'll go play realistic rfactor bye ->

You can make many mistakes with your road car and the clutch remains good enough.

When you drive a road car in normal traffic of a big city like Sao Paulo (Brazil), you use hundreds or thousands of times the 1st and 2nd gear. Of course you won't push the pedal to the metal, but the point is that in a race you rarelly use 1st gears, and in a 5 minutes race should be impossible to heat the clutch at the point you lose the grip driving normally.

Also, in race cars, the clutch is stronger than road cars.

The materials used in moderns clutches are very resistant, and you can make some mistakes without fear, cause them will resist.

I think clutches are not realistic at this point and need to be improved.

But how then I could drive over 40 minutes in south city, stopping and getting going to city speed and 2nd maybe 3rd gear, without any clutch heat?

I would say reason is RPM and gear ratios, it is easy to put 3000-4000rpm and to use 1st gear that goes to 80kph or near, it is same as you would be using only 2nd gear on your street car and that is quite easy way to destroy clutch.

Problem is that in sim low rpm are not sounding similar to IRL, also default setups do have too tall 1st gear.

Clutch is more than enough strong, it is bit too strong now as it is compromise so that for example XFG on BL2 would finish race, which it did not when clutch was lot more sensitive.

JTbo speaks the truth.

If anyone has any problem with the clutch may I suggest that you go out to your car and do 30 starts, exactly as you would in LFS. If your clutch survives then come back and complain.

Quote from the_angry_angel :

JTbo speaks the truth.

If anyone has any problem with the clutch may I suggest that you go out to your car and do 30 starts, exactly as you would in LFS. If your clutch survives then come back and complain.

BIG BIG +1

The new patch just shows who understand what a clutch is, what it does and how fragile they are when abused.

The rest just can't of driven stick yet. If you can't see this let me show you in YOUR car. I will show you how to burn out a clutch and give you that great smell in SECONDS.

Quote from the_angry_angel :

JTbo speaks the truth.

If anyone has any problem with the clutch may I suggest that you go out to your car and do 30 starts, exactly as you would in LFS. If your clutch survives then come back and complain.

Whose paying for new clutches lol?

Quote from JTbo :

Problem is that in sim low rpm are not sounding similar to IRL, also default setups do have too tall 1st gear.

yes I would love to hear more of a lug in the lower rpm's.. If LFS could add a torqing/lug noise.. I think that would just blow me away


Also I've been talking about a glaze level since x30

Quote from Nakkitartsani :

wtf RL clutch is unrealistic too http://youtube.com/watch?v=h1z_RUIGz3k !11 I'll go play realistic rfactor bye ->

Belive me if you burn out like that... It wouldn't surprise me he even got to that parking lot. My money is on he's been doing that for some time now

NOoOOoooo! Not another demo racer! God save us all.

Maybe the auto clutch should be modified, if you take the FZ50 GTR, and start in 1 gear and the go up to 40km/h and the put it in 6 gear, the autoclutch dosen't let go as it should, the rpm is at 1000rpm when driving 40km/h in 6 gear = enough rpm to not stall the engine, so the autoclutch should fully release at this point.

Quote from mortenmorfar :

Maybe the auto clutch should be modified, if you take the FZ50 GTR, and start in 1 gear and the go up to 40km/h and the put it in 6 gear, the autoclutch dosen't let go as it should, the rpm is at 1000rpm when driving 40km/h in 6 gear = enough rpm to not stall the engine, so the autoclutch should fully release at this point.

ROTF

I can say exactly what is going on here.

You are in the WRONG gear so the auto clutch is having to slip like mad to stop the car stalling.

The problem you describe is between the keyboard and chair I am afraid. It is not a problem with the clutch. Put the car in the RIGHT gear and your clutch will not melt.

No it's a problem with the Auto clutch, if you use manual clutch, the car doesn't stall, so the auto clutch shoulden be engaged at this point, try it out for yourself.

Quote from mortenmorfar :

No it's a problem with the Auto clutch, if you use manual clutch, the car doesn't stall, so the auto clutch shoulden be engaged at this point, try it out for yourself.

The car DOES stall with manual clutch. I also tested manual button clutch as well and managed to stall with no issues.

The auto clutch slips when required to stop a stall. It ALWAYS has done this in LFS. Its only now that you have to worry about clutch temps that it highlights this.

Just tried a run in GTT using keyboard and auto gears without heat issues?

The FZ50 GTR, doesn't stall if you drive 40km/h in 6th gear, using manual clutch

With manual clutch, i can drive 16km/h in 6 gear, with the Race_S setting, without stalling, if you use the auto clutch, it's always on the clutch.... so either the stalling feature doesn't work properly yet, or the auto clutch is wrong

If you drive with the auto clutch, it doesn't release the clutch before the engine rpm is above 3,500rpm, I don't think many people rev there cars to 3500rpm before they let go of the clutch

Quote from Woz :

Just tried a run in GTT using keyboard and auto gears without heat issues?

I'm not saying this is a issue, and it doesn't happen if you drive normally, I'm just saying that the Auto clutch should let go some more.

On most engines, it's not required to engage the clutch if the RPM is above 1500rpm, and the car is rolling, my road car doesn't stall if i drive 40km/h in 5 gear, it doesn't sound good, but it doesn't stall... so why does the auto clutch in lfs think it's stalling, when it's not ?

Maybe we aren't talking about the same thing, I'm just saying that the Auto Clutch isn't working like it should be

Quote from mortenmorfar :

I'm not saying this is a issue, and it doesn't happen if you drive normally, I'm just saying that the Auto clutch should let go some more.

On most engines, it's not required to engage the clutch if the RPM is above 1500rpm, and the car is rolling, my road car doesn't stall if i drive 40km/h in 5 gear, it doesn't sound good, but it doesn't stall... so why does the auto clutch in lfs think it's stalling, when it's not ?

Maybe we aren't talking about the same thing, I'm just saying that the Auto Clutch isn't working like it should be

Well, I think that it could start pressing clutch bit later, maybe at 1500 rpm, but it should not also be perfect clutch as it is helping feature it should come with some cost, longer gear changes and easier to burn clutch with it sounds actually quite ok to me then. But maybe reducing rpm to 1500 where it should be fully off and it might cause less problems to many.

I can take off fine about 30 times without the clutch ever overheating.. Although, I noticed I was in the sand using the clutch to keep my car from stalling and the wheels barley turning.. I wasn't torquing on the clutch when I was getting the wheels to turn.. Although it got really hot???

I couldn't see a clutch getting hot like that especially when you not applying the torque to a solid surface.. Other then that I haven't gotten the clutch hot yet on any other car

another wierd thing is that the clutch on the FBO seems to get worse as it gets warmer!? F1 cars and endurance race cars tend to go for a clutch that performances better when warmer (i.e not so well in the cold)

Quote from johnr32 :

another wierd thing is that the clutch on the FBO seems to get worse as it gets warmer!? F1 cars and endurance race cars tend to go for a clutch that performances better when warmer (i.e not so well in the cold)

Most OEM clutches don't perform too well if it's getting worked on hard and a lot hotter then you would ever see in standard economical driving