Hi

I'm playing the demo and using the XR Turbo. My problem is, that the last couples of days, smoke has come from the right side of the car. It appears to be either the front or the reartyre - probably the rear, that the smoke comes from. The smoke increases as the race progresses, and the braking and turning abilities decreases (why I assume it is the tires).

Apparently, I can't find a cause to the problem. I have tried different setups, but it continues. Sometimes, it even appears when driving out of the pit.

Does anyone know what it is, and perhaps know what I could do?

Martin

The tyres are heating up which causes them to smoke and lose grip if they get too hot.

Yes, but why is it, that it is always the right reartyre, that is the problem. And have do you solve the problem? It hasn't always been a problem.

I think it's the front tire: When you steer while braking, the inner tire will most likely lock, causing it to heat up and making flat spots... Just remember not to steer too hard while braking or go off the brakes a little to prevent the inner tire from locking up...

Hmm

But howcome the tyre sometimes smoke right after the pit when I haven't even been braking yet? And it is smoking all the time under the driving. Not only when braking, although it increases under braking.

The strange thing is, that i has come out of nowhere. And I have only been making small changes in setup.

Is it possible, that the ride height can cause it? Too low ride height?

The LFS tyres smoke whenever a portion of the tyres that is hot touches the road (so you get puffs of smoke down the straights), or when a tyre is locked (trail of smoke in braking area).

It's probably that you have got a hot spot on your tyre, and each tyre that hot spot touches the track a puff of smoke is generated.

The ride height itself will not make the smoke, but it might be that the setup locks or overheats the tyres a lot now (or your driving style?). Use an older setup for a bit that didn't do this and see how it goes.

I'll try an older one. But it is funny, that it is only the right fronttyre´that smokes. Further, it starts smoking the very first time it locks, and it does not lock that hard. But I'll try an older setup, and one with low brake moment.

But still, it's strange that earlier, on the same setup, it wasn't a problem.

I just tried different setup, even default. And with all, smokes comes from right fronttyre when the tyre locks. And when first smoke has come, it continues, and eventually, a pit stop is required.

I tried to take of the braking-power, was down to 945 Nm, which should not give so big problems. But all on right tyre.


strange...

Have you looked at the tyre temp overlay? What does it say?

I was thinking you might be using Supers? They give out smoke.

All the tyres give out smoke. But only when you overheat them or lock them.

I'm using SUPER.

It says, that the optimal temperature is 60 degrees. But can you see what temperature they have? And where?

And besides. I see other cars locking their tires under braking much more than I, but never smoke after that.

Can you maybe post a replay so we can see what's going on.

Pictures say more than a thousand words, ya know

OK. Here's a replay.

I may drive a bit excessively to provoke some smoke. I can brake lighter. Men eventually, the smoke will appear. You will see it after first lap. And slightly increasing over time. There very last corner before winning (), you can see the problems that appear. It lowers the turning abilities, especially left-turns. It also makes it harder to brake - although it doesn't show that clearly here.

And don't mind the driving - it was unconcentrated

This one probably shows it even better. It starts at first lap, and gets worse and ruins the handling...especially at the last lap.

You're locking the right front at every corner for a long time, and making the inside temps of the tyre tread red in just one lap, whereas it should take 2 or 3 laps to get them nicely up to temperature.

Examine your brake balance and camber first of all - are you running lots of negative camber on the right front? Are your tyre pressures really low? Perhaps put a bit more rear brake bias, and reduce the braking before turning in.

In particular you're locking the right front for a long time when braking for turn 1. When you come over that ridge in the braking zone for turn 1, there's less weight on the wheels so it's easier to lock them, try to back off a little bit after that bump so they can regain grip.

While watching the replay, press SHIFT + F to enter forces view - this shows red arrows for each wheel when it is slipping. Also press F9 to show the status of your tyres - when they're red, they're overheating and will produce smoke.

Don't you mean just "F"? Because as far as I know, Shift + F turns off the overlays...

Quote from bbman :

Don't you mean just "F"? Because as far as I know, Shift + F turns off the overlays...

Oops! F, indeed, not SHIFT+F.

Quote from XXXg3 :

wow you guys...common sense
thats the smoke from the exhaust

Ehm lol? When exhaust smoke isn't implented in lfs yet how's that possible then?
Wow, next time just use common sense..

sorry stupid comment, shoulve checked before I said that.
Just couldve sworn I saw exhaust smoke beforeillepall

If you're using a mouse and keyboard (like me) you've got to realize that gas and brake is an on/off switch. There's no analog. As far as braking goes, what you need to do is set the max force per wheel at equal to or less than what your tires are capable of. I haven't done a whole lot of testing with the XR series (I prefer the FWD XF. I drive enough RWD cars in real life), but with the XFG I moved brake bias to 65% front and max force to about 535Nm. It sounds like a big knockdown from the default 650, but it's necessary since every time I hit the brakes I'll be doing it at 100% strength.

EDIT: THe way I did this is to run up to about 60-80mph on the car park stage, then hit the brakes while I'm in overhead view with the force overlay. I notice the rearward forces on the tires. As a rule of thumb, if any turn red that means you should lower the max force per wheel, NOT change the brake bias. Once you've gotten all the decelerative force arrows to stay in the green, then you should tune your brake bias. Once you have a feel for what bias you're comfortable with, go repeat the forces testing and move the max force up or down to get as much as possible down to the ground without locking up the wheels.