I'll try to make this brief.

I use manual clutch in LFS. My DFP is far from new, and as a result the buttons got quite dirty. (Specifically the side of the button). Therefore when I push the button I use for clutch, it stays pressed, it doesn't go back. When that happened with one of them, I started to use another one as the clutch - so please don't recommend that

I've decided that my DFP needs to be opened. Once I can "reach" the button it should be very easy to clean. My question is:

Is there anything I should watch out for? Because from this pic I can see that I'll need to take the whole FFB motors apart? I'd really love to avoid doing that...

http://www.lfsforum.net/attach ... id=27842&d=1175702188

Any easier way to solve my problem?

You can take off the wheel from the DFP easy. But you'll have to take off the GT badge on the front. You just whip that off, its only stuck on.. Those screws are asthetic.

Then there's 4 holes, each with a screw at the bottom. Undo the screws, Pull the wheel with a little force and wriggling until it comes loose, BUT watch out for the wires. There will be a connector coming out from the wheel, so don't pull it too hard or you'll break that, pull the connecter appart and you've got your wheel. Then just flip it over and unscrew the back.

I just finished putting the wheel back together. Thanks for the advice!

As it turns out, the button itself wasn't the cause. There is a rubber "padding" between the button and the.... "electronic plate" (sorry I don't know the word for it, I hope you know what I mean ). That rubber part was worn out. Luckily there is an identical part used for the buttons on the other side of the wheel, so I just replaced them. As a result my POV is now a bit sluggish, but the others are fine. I guess you could call that a problem.. half-solution?

Also, that GT logo is put on using double sided tape. As a result I completely destroyed it when taking it off. Luckily, I have an old DFP lying around, so I took off the badge from the other one (doing a better job this time) and replaced it. Now that I have the old DFP out though, I plan to somehow make my old pedals usable again (Logitech asked me to cut off the plugs and send it to them, so that's why I need to work on it).
I figure: the pedals have two separate axis, so given that I get my hands across on an old joystick (which also has 2 axis) maybe I'll be able to work something out? If anyone's interested, I'll keep posting if I get any progress!

I'll post here not to create a new thread about my wee little project:

Basically I got my old set of DFP pedals with no plug on it (Logitech made me cut it off and send it to them - warranty), and I will wire it, so I can connect it to my gameport and use as a second set of pedals.

1. I opened my pedals to determine the "coloring" of the cables:

As you can see on the great ( )diagram I made, the red and black wires are the power cables, and the white and green are analog signal outputs.

Therefore, using the pin-out diagram for the gameport found here, I will connect the wires like this:

Black: 1
White: 3
Green: 6
Red: 8

I'm also left with a ... wire made out of material in my cable from the DFP pedals. Any idea of what to do with this?

And please, if there is someone that knows anythign about wiring, please correct me if I'm wrong - I wouldn't want to blow up my computer doing this

Shame there's not a slightest hint of interest in this...

Would be good to know if anyone has done this before, as I'm having problems. My computer somehow doesn't see the pedals.. and I've tried 3 different combinations of wiring..

maybe because the wheel is tied in to the pedals some how

Could be

Come to think of it, I had to buy a gameport especially for this. I connected it to the motherboard, but didn't do anything else. Maybe that's the problem? But on the other hand, the drivers for a gameport are installed together with the sound drivers as far as I know, so that shouldn't be the problem.