Excuse the copy and paste from my thread on ukmkiV site but wondered if anyone had any input/ideas? - oh yeah it's the Golf Mk5 1.9TDI (105)..

Okay so lately I might have mentioned (I think it's) my turbo making a weird noise and whistling more than normal, metallic tinkering when it's dumped the boost and spinning back to no pressure...it still pulled fine and my friends mechanic hooked it up to vagcom and it was showing 2400mb boost or there abouts so it seems fine, been told not to worry about it...also it's never been in limp mode and i sit at 85 on the motorways most of the time so dont think it's vnt or anything..

Today while driving to reading I noticed the car would sort of judder around 2200rpm under about 1/3 throttle...like almost that it wasn't getting enough fuel and holding back..almost like a really rough fuel map...(it's rtech map and been spotless so i am 99.99% it's not that) it's not the dmf judder just a very slight hesistancy from the engine..i thought maybe it's my turbo or something but putting the windows down and listening i can hear the steady sound of boost and it doesn't sound like it's fluctuating or dropping any and then building it back up..
it did this in all the gears however it was less noticable in higher gears... it doesn't always do it though, probably 50% of the time. above about 2500rpm it's fine.

got home and checked under the bonnet, one of the small clips on the air intake has broken and the back of the air intake funnel that goes into the front of the grill isn't secure and can be lifted up a little, enough to get half a finger underneath, would this be causing this issue?
http://imageshack.us/m/695/3074/engineup.jpg (this is not a picture of my exact car but i've circile the part i mean in blue)

also i wanted to check my intercooler pipes or whatever down under the car as i understand the clips break, so i went to take off the undertray (and while realising there wasn't enough room to do it without a jack on my residential car parking bit), i noticed there were heavy, oily/gunky deposits just behind the front right wheel of the vehicle. the undertray almost looked "damp". my oil and water levels (havent topped up either for about 2 months) are fine and my car isn't using any more fuel than normal.

Looking down through the engine (from under the bonnet) i notice that a pipe under the belt is covered in a wet looking thick layer of deposit.

http://img853.imageshack.us/i/img00469201105191948.jpg/


(oily deposits under the car)

http://img860.imageshack.us/i/img00471201105191949.jpg/


http://img862.imageshack.us/i/img00472201105191949.jpg/


does anyone have any ideas what this could be? i'm crap-broke right now so can't afford to just drop it at a dealer or any of the local mechanic places..




/copypaste.


i do use fuel additive (miller pro sport or something) every other tank so i'm pretty sure it's not like injectors blocked/dirty or anything.. meh!

Stop being a pikey and take it to a qualified car mechanic, or .... .. main dealer

Just to make this post more topical rather than random grumpy, I am fairly certain from personal experience, this happens when volkswagens do not have bbs wheels and lowering springs.

how is the cars oil, does it use more than normal? Your turbo could be broken and the judder may be caused by the car burning some of its oil instead of diesel.

but

Quote from doyal :

Stop being a pikey and take it to a qualified car mechanic, or .... .. main dealer

No offense but I said that I have no money to take it to a garage.....

ACCAkut, as I said also in my description, the car doesn't burn any oil and hasn't used any since I topped it up about 1000 miles after it's last service (which was about 103k, and it's done 108k so hasn't needed a top up for about 5000 miles.

I'd suspect it sounds like a fuel side issue rather than turbo although that is a rather vague description. Does it happen every time at the same revs/load or is it intermittent? If it happens at a certain point I'd get rid of the ECU chip, worth trying removing it anyway. Presumably it's common rail, if so check the electrical connections to all the injectors and look for any dodgy looking wiring.

Is the fuel fresh? It could be contaminated fuel, try draining the tank and don't put anything but pump diesel in, VW didn't design your engine to run on snake oil.

Other than that you're probably stuck to getting someone with the kit and experience to look at it. Diesel parts are expensive and car engine design life is relatively short, an old turbo diesel car can soon turn into a big bill.

The metallic sound sounds like the turbo on its way out.

If you have about half an hour free, rip out the plumbing for the turbo and feel around for any metallic shards, if the turbine has excessive play or signs of oil/fuel as the air side should be relatively clean.


Also, this isn't unlike a VAG car at all. People seem to think they are superbly reliable, but bad news on that one. It is bollocks.

Quote from ajp71 :

I'd suspect it sounds like a fuel side issue rather than turbo although that is a rather vague description. Does it happen every time at the same revs/load or is it intermittent? If it happens at a certain point I'd get rid of the ECU chip, worth trying removing it anyway. Presumably it's common rail, if so check the electrical connections to all the injectors and look for any dodgy looking wiring.

It was a remap not a tuning box. All wiring looks okay. It happens some of the time under about 1/3rd throttle at approx 2200rpm.

Quote :

Is the fuel fresh? It could be contaminated fuel, try draining the tank and don't put anything but pump diesel in, VW didn't design your engine to run on snake oil.

Uh I put the fuel in about a week ago, I've had 4 week old fuel before and it was fine.

Quote from P5YcHoM4N :

The metallic sound sounds like the turbo on its way out.

Yeah that's one of the things I've feared for a while. No white smoke and car still feels as quick as it did before.

Quote :

If you have about half an hour free, rip out the plumbing for the turbo and feel around for any metallic shards, if the turbine has excessive play or signs of oil/fuel as the air side should be relatively clean.

I don't unfortunately, it's my daily driver and I don't have access to tools, ramps, jacks or even a garage space.

Quote :

Also, this isn't unlike a VAG car at all. People seem to think they are superbly reliable, but bad news on that one. It is bollocks.

Ah yeah I mean they have their problems but Mk5 engine wise worst thing is really the turbo and the VNT apparently. Also a few electrical glitches here and there, issues with MAF and what not but nothing major (from what I've heard on the owners forum)

Aside from this it's been nothing but reliable and nothing's gone wrong which isn't bad for a 108k miler...it has had a Full VAG SH though so...hey. I've sort of accepted I need a new turbo (will be going stage 2 hybrid and turning the boost down until I get a new clutch that can take the 200BHP) but as I said I have no money and can't really afford it.

Sure it isn't a sticky EGR valve? Might be worth looking at and if possible to block the egr's off.

As a part of the remap I believe the EGR was software disabled but the hardware is still in place.

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

Yeah that's one of the things I've feared for a while. No white smoke and car still feels as quick as it did before.

You won't suffer noticeable power loss instantly if the turbo has only recently started to ingest itself. But this is a side affect of turning up the screw on an old turbo, I assume you was warned about this when you went to get the work done. I also assume you replaced all of the oily with shiny new full synthetic the day you went for the remap. As well as a shiny new fuel filter.

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

I don't unfortunately, it's my daily driver and I don't have access to tools, ramps, jacks or even a garage space.

You will either need a pair of pliers or a screw driver to take off the hose clips to get into the turbo housing and it can all be done from the top.

Quote from P5YcHoM4N :

You won't suffer noticeable power loss instantly if the turbo has only recently started to ingest itself. But this is a side affect of turning up the screw on an old turbo, I assume you was warned about this when you went to get the work done. I also assume you replaced all of the oily with shiny new full synthetic the day you went for the remap. As well as a shiny new fuel filter.

Uhh, no for the fuel filter at my last service (about 750 miles after the remap), I'm not sure exactly what was serviced beforehand but it's had regular services at VAG dealers between 8 and 12k. intervals.

For the remap, I am not sure if they changed the boost or just did the fuelling. Rtech are very well known with the remapping world and do a good job, they don't just go for max power... then again 2400mb of boost is about 34psi LOL.

Quote :

You will either need a pair of pliers or a screw driver to take off the hose clips to get into the turbo housing and it can all be done from the top.

Oh really? sweet? Can you possibly (and yeah I know sorry I'm a noob) provide me with a little more direction? I just dont wanna do anything I wouldn't be able to put back together myself..just a rough idea of what I should do and see and I'll be able to figure it out.

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

Uhh, no for the fuel filter at my last service (about 750 miles after the remap), I'm not sure exactly what was serviced beforehand but it's had regular services at VAG dealers between 8 and 12k. intervals.

For the remap, I am not sure if they changed the boost or just did the fuelling. Rtech are very well known with the remapping world and do a good job, they don't just go for max power... then again 2400mb of boost is about 34psi LOL.

If the power has gone up then your turbo is under extra load. More fuel = more power = more exhaust gasses = faster spinning turbo = more air = more fuel = more power ... you can see where this is going. Old turbos- and turbos in general- are very sensitive to dirty oil and once you start squeezing out more power they become hyper sensitive. So you always want nice clean oil and filters in before you start squeezing out the extra BHP.

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

Oh really? sweet? Can you possibly (and yeah I know sorry I'm a noob) provide me with a little more direction? I just dont wanna do anything I wouldn't be able to put back together myself..just a rough idea of what I should do and see and I'll be able to figure it out.

First remove the plastic shrouding, then follow the exhaust manifold to the turbo, you'll see some silicone hosing attaching by more often then not jubilee clips, but these days they have gone to a sort of spring clip as they created a better seal than jubilee clips. They are a bastard to remove and replace, mole grips make the job easier if space is tight. Remove clip, pull off the hose and there you have it. Reverse the process when you're done.

Thanks buddy, well tomorrow I am going to London on work, then Saturday I have a 400 mile drive from here to Poole, Poole to Thorpe Park, Thorpe Park to Poole, Poole to here (here being Thatcham)

so will maybe try and do this on Sunday. I have AA breakdown anyway and I gave car a thrasing today when I started noticing problems and it was fine.

Thanks for all the ideas so far. Any more by the way?

Although im a VW guy and have had one of every gen since A1, it's hard to
diagnose without playing with the actual car. Also, ive never had a diesel.
You might wanna check out VWVortex forums, if you haven't already.
They've been my VW bible for evah .

http://forums.vwvortex.com/

<not a mechanic>

On the ZT / 75 diesels, the pipe connecting the intercooler to the engine has some O-Rings which swell really easily. This makes a poor seal, and means under boost, some comes out around this join.

This often leaves oily deposits near the front wheel / undertray, and can cause hesitancy as well.

Possible boost leak, but very small?

Is the oil crap coming from a worn cv joint rubber?

The noise might be a failed blow off valve or whatever its officially called. I had one fail on my Passat and it sounded like a wrc dump valve filled with nuts and bolts when it surged..

Quote from Jakg :

<not a mechanic>

On the ZT / 75 diesels, the pipe connecting the intercooler to the engine has some O-Rings which swell really easily. This makes a poor seal, and means under boost, some comes out around this join.

This often leaves oily deposits near the front wheel / undertray, and can cause hesitancy as well.

Possible boost leak, but very small?

Possibly mate! That's what I went to look for in the first place, but the bloody undertray limits access.

Quote from Foilpact :

Is the oil crap coming from a worn cv joint rubber?

Not sure mate. I couldn't take the undertray off as I mentioned.

Quote :

The noise might be a failed blow off valve or whatever its officially called. I had one fail on my Passat and it sounded like a wrc dump valve filled with nuts and bolts when it surged..

Hmm, when I boost up and let off the throttle I get a nice psssstthhhh and then sometimes a slight tinkering as the turbo spins back down...occassionally as well when it's spooling up I get a wierd wooooshhhowoooowssshhhwooooossshhh....I wouldn't say an owl but there's a definate sound of grindingness

My MK4 was giving me turbo issues and I traced it to the intercooler. Under accelerating you'd get a loud 'whooosssh' noise as the turbo started spooling up and when you let off throttle slightly the turbo would die suddenly. The car didn't drive smoothly at all and eventually started putting out black smoke.

First thing I did was fill a spray bottle with soapy water and sprayed that on the intercooler hoses and joins looking for any leaks whilst someone gently revved engine. I then stuck my hand in the OS vent on the bumper and could feel air. Popped the front bumper off and there was my leak. Bought a new intercooler, swapped them over and never had any problems since.

When I was googling I found lots of information about burst hoses etc so I'd try that first. Noises can be deceiving and one mans metal tinkering is anothers air leak. My Dad used to have his own garage and kind of thought my turbo sounded like metal gently scrapping but it was just air from the intercooler in the end.

Ok well I believed it was the boost pipe at first but it's seemingly boosting fine so until I can get it up on the ramp to check (next Sunday) I'm unable to confirm.

A few more symptoms....car idles very weird, not actively hunting up and down but you can hear it, almost like it's unable to hold a steady idle. Sometimes it's OK and sometimes it makes the whole car judder.

I'm feeling I'd need to check the EGR which apparently could cause this?

Also when I give her the beans for a while (say 40 - 120 on a dual carridgeway) i get a weird sort of disel-oily smell...

Was that a new car that you bought?

I bought a new car? COOL! It's a 2004.

Went to garage because I'm sick of it being broken and they scanned it with VAGCOM, has fault with fuel temp sender, guy explains this may be why and without replacing it there's no point delving about elsewhere. I coughed up the £55.15 for the sender, including fitting + diagnostic time (about 45 minutes) so was a fair price. I'm dropping it off tomorrow morning to get done.

If that doesn't work, then new fuel filter will be going on Friday anyway.

Vagcom? What are you putting your car on the rag now? Sheesh, No WONDER it's been going all going tits up.

(replacement of Mason91 free of charge.)

That was a really fail troll attempt. I chucked though.

Seems to be fixed. Had an error for the fuel temperature sensor, got new sensor and fitted that, still did it. Further investigations showed that one of the wires going to/from this sensor to the ECU was damaged. Repaired and now it's idling beautifully and felt much nicer to drive as well.

a bit of advice though; Check all pipes going in and out of the whole turbo/Inter cooler system just to be 100% with the soapy water test alone, a firm pressing ( like you'd hold a cigarette between the thumb and 2nd finger ) sure wouldn't hurt either.

To be sure, ta be sure.