With the new BF1, driving fast, in top gear, I get such spikes in the steering that sometimes the car is thrown off the track .
Are there any settings I can try to calm things down a bit?
My wheel is a wingman formula force gp

Oh dear...I have that wheel too, that started happening for me a while ago, only it was really bad, did it at all speeds, was totalyl undriveable. I took the wheel apart, and some of the gear cog's inside it were slipping against each other, so I simply jiggled them about a bit, and applied some good old WD-40.

That was about 2 months ago, and (touch wood) it's still going strong.

One thing I noticed was that sometimes the steering wheel "freezes" for a short while, usually at higher speeds (in BF1, after the TC has done something). I should have the replay of it, so I'll check it if it is visible

(F1 car ooh! )

EDIT: or maybe it was nothing

Al, put your wheel turn ALL the way down to 180 degrees in the controller settings, and then put the Steering Compensation at 0.00. That will be a good test.

Then if it is too sensitive, raise the steering compensation by .25 increments each time.

If it is too sluggish, keep the Steering compensation at 0.00, and then raise the steering wheel degrees in increments of like 200 degrees each time, and see what suits you best.

Basically this setting can ultimately give some unwanted spikes and shaking. As well as when having high FF strength levels.

I took it apart as changing the software settings in LFS just made the spikes even worse and at very low speed too. Basically the wheel design is pants, there is so much loose play in the design with no way of making it tighter. The steering shaft feeds firectly in to a micro-pot whish is held in place by this little black plastic lug pointing vertically down, sitting in a plastic groove at the bottom of the casing. When you turn the wheel, the pot turns with it a few degrees so there's no way of getting an accurate centre position.
I have some very stiff metal foil I use for screening guitar electrics. I basically packed out the groove so the pot lug had far less loose play, and the whole thing feels significantly better now. Hope this helps anyone with similar problems. The wheel is not well designed, it feels and looks cheap (cos it is) and the components inside are not great considering how much heavy use an FF wheel gets. Looks like its time to upgrade.

Yeah, my buddy owns that wheel, and the plastic construction and stuff just is not sturdy. He has taken it apart several times, just to fix a few things, but also to get rid of the 'shaking' of the steering shaft I guess you could call it. Like he could lift the wheel up and down, and it had some play in it, while the base stayed stationary. :doh:

DFP can be had for a little under £60 Had mine for two years and it's going fine. Pedals needed replacing with newer revision, but the wheel has given zero problems.

Hi , I would like to re open this one as I have a similar problem.

I have a MS sidewinder FF which has recently started spiking on the steering axis.

I have also just hooked it up to my new system & it started giving me problems, it was fine on the old one so i am thinking it might have something to do with my new rig.

What should I do?

Quote from anttt69 :

Hi , I would like to re open this one as I have a similar problem.

I have a MS sidewinder FF which has recently started spiking on the steering axis.

I have also just hooked it up to my new system & it started giving me problems, it was fine on the old one so i am thinking it might have something to do with my new rig.

What should I do?

sounds simple but have you calibrated it in both the controller setup in windows and in LFS afterwards?

If you can't solve it with software settings, take it apart carefully and spray in some switch cleaner into the pots (variable resistors) to clean the contacts.