The ABS light seems to be messed up somehow, perhaps a bad texture map. Similarly, one gauge on the right cluster isn't exactly in the best location. It goes from 0 to 100 but is cut off from 5 to 55 and overlaps the tach a bit.
why does engine have 0.1 bar of boost? redline should be higher to compliment that power curve
thats because the engine makes power past the peak HP point and redline, so AI still thinks there is room to go. Ran into same issue years back when i tweaked FZ5. LFS AI won't shift until 500rpm after max HP rpm. Example, if car makes max HP @ 7000rpm, then redline should be at least 7500rpm for AI to shift, for a good reason since the power curve still holds some of that hp
Are you using a wheel sim or m/k? Ive found when i have to use m/k when my sims not hooked up, that “auto clutch” in the settings can kill your clutch pretty quick after aggressive driving. Common problem with high revving cars on LFS. Since you also said “auto shift” i assume youre not actually using a sim with a shifter. Auto shift is the same problem of LFS trying to shift your car for you, it slips the clutch a little, which burns it up when you’re accelerating hard or trying to drift.
Should be noted to Let off the gas when you shift and try using weight transfer to initiate drifts + less angle sometimes if youre starting to lug the engine (lfs might slip clutch) + you may be clutch kicking to keep the car in drift which will destroy your clutch overtime.
With mods i've gotten used to figuring out which will and won't perform well in auto, and do switch to manual. such as the case with this car.
In manual, I am used to letting the gas off to shift.
Weird habits from growing up with M/K on this sim and learning to drift that way over 20,000+ driven miles. lol. I don't mind manual but i've gotten used to the wonky and/or good behavior the auto shift mode puts out.