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Demo licensed
I sent the gearbox for warranty in the day after I picked it up, the store had no more stock... However they totally said even if Logitech doesn't want to give other or fix, as soon as they get new stock they will instantly give me a new one and I won't even need to wait for the warranty one (that is if they get them sooner in stock)...

Hope when I get the 2nd gearbox replacement all works well...

And about the noise, I see on youtube ppl claiming they are already on like the 2nd or 3rd logitech G29 replacement and they all start to make that noise almost in no time.

But I mailed logitech and they said its not normal and to send my G29 to warranty, but I won't since I just see everyone having the same exact problem...

I want is to BE able to get full 100% brake pedal range using my G25 pedals on G29, after like 50% pressed the brake value is already at 100%, probably G29 just crapped down on the brake pedal values Frown. (I WOULD BE HAPPY IF ANYONE COULD TELL ME HOW TO ACTUALLY GET THE FULL BRAKE PEDAL RANGE TO BE READ ON THE G29).

ps : I'm already starting to wish I would have waited for a Thrustmaster promotion instead, because G29 have only been a big downgrade for me compared to my old G25 (better FFB, simpler and better PC software, actually fully working H-shifter with sequential option, no strange noises, just bigger noise when turning because of the direct gears instead of the helical ones that started with G27), also its a nightmare to use any button as Handbrake while I could use G25 central shifter buttons for handbrake way easier or use sequential shifter almost as a real handbrake and the biggest disappointment is really G25 had almost 100% brake pedal full range compared to around 50% pedal range read on the G29, ABS must be always on at 100% on any sim or its impossible...
Last edited by guily6669, .
Demo licensed

I just received the Logitech G29 Gearbox and what a rubbish, everything on G29 is really far worse than its predecessors, I prefer the clicky noisy G25 gearbox to this rubber like feeling.

Also the 2nd gear If I put it very softly without applying almost any pressure to the right side it doesn't detect it.

I made a video of it:

You can also hear the squealing noise when I turn the G29 OFF while turning left. my friend's G29 also does it, mine started doing in like the 1st 30 min of use, RUBBISH.

ps: Should I send the G29 Gearbox to the store and ask for a replacement?
Last edited by guily6669, .
Demo licensed
I hear that the G27 H shifter at least works on G29, just not the extra buttons...

I also saw someone wiring the G25 H shifter to work on G27, just need to change a few cables, however I would really like is to know if that way would work on G29 too Frown...

About modding the H-shifter feeling I know about them for a long time since people have been doing it since the G25, but I don't really care that much to improve the feeling, just wished to make my G25 shifter to fully work on the G29 directly without being trough USB with expensive adapters.

Though the pots from my G25 shifter are already a bit bad for a damn long time and it skips gears some times or change to a different one, Logitech always use cheap garbage pots in it Frown.
Demo licensed
Hi again,

I have the G29 for a few days, but only tested yesterday for like 2 or 3 hours...

WHAT AN AWFUL wheel, FFB works much worse than G25, the software sucks, now it uses a generic all-in-one logitech crap of more than 300MB to install and brings crap for screens, keyboards, mouses (logitech is getting stupid, they could have made a wheel only software without the other garbageware that only uses more ram and space and more processes on my windows)...

Almost no settings at all for the wheel, nothing to test it like we used to have on G25\G27 (its read on windows devices just as a generic controller).

I'm using Logitech G25 pedals and the wheel only reads up to like ~75% of the pedal and the rest is always at 100% and can't calibrate it to use the full pedal, this is beyond bad, it only travel very little, now any slight brake it brakes a lot and just a bit more its already at full 100% braking power almost at half pedal...

And after like 1 hour of smooth Assetto Corsa with almost lifeless FFB and not even at 100%, now when turning to the left with or without power on the wheel its making a metallic whine sound (probably gonna send to the store to switch for other G29).

ps: From G25 the G29 feels quite cheap and lower quality FFS. Also does anyone know how to convert the G25 H shifter to work on G29???????????????????? (I don't want to buy Leo's adapter or anything via USB, I want to rewire the plug and solder it in a way that would work fine with G29 since G25 shifter at least allow to use it as semi-auto for handbrake or as H-shifter though the pots are already a bit bad, but maybe I can change them for others and glue them some way in place)...
Last edited by guily6669, .
Demo licensed
Just ordered Logitech G29, finally it came to promotion again for 199.99€, I'm waiting for it to arrive somewhere next weak...

But it's just sad that Logitech is stupid and don't sell parts.

If Logitech would sell all parts at good prices, the wheel would be like 1000% more value specially all motors and pots which wear out faster which they could have already fixed by using other cheap technology like using light or even the older method of the G25 encoder wheel on the pedals with a big metal wheel and a lot of holes for more values, that would last an eternity since the small power good quality IR emitter lasts quite long...

They could have also used contact magnet buttons on the H shifter that would cost like cents and last long too...

EDIT: Sadly they don't sell extended 5 year warranty for accessories Frown...
Last edited by guily6669, .
Demo licensed
My G25 was probably used like 1000 hours or less since most of the time it was just picking up dust...

In just a few hours the H-shifter already started to skip or jump gears (they use very cheap pots).

The wheel with almost no use at all I decided to disassemble it and clean it and the encoder wheel was already broken with almost no use and no punishment, I glued it, lubbed the gears and closed it...

I never really used it with 100% force feedback, never played rally games with it and never did much drifting with it, it was mostly soft GT games and finished only 1 racing game with it Gran Turismo 6 and played a bit of Project Cars, Assetto Corsa and a few older good simulators but not even much...

Then the wheel started to get harder to move even turned off (but was fully working even though the accelerator pot was already starting to spike slightly and the motors had just a bit less strength) so I disassembled it again and one motor was already harder to move (thats the fault for the wheel to be harder to move even when OFF), I fully cleaned it and lubbed only the ball bearings on the motor that has no encoder wheel, that's the one that was a bit bad, However cleaning it and lubbing the ball bearings sadly didnt really fix the motor it just improved it very slightly...

Anyway the encoder wheel was all broken again, after re-gluing it, it never worked anymore, I even ordered a new all metal one and never managed to make the wheel to work ever again, it doesn't detect the wheel movement, though the motors work, pedals, H-shifter and all buttons.

The IR sensors got misaligned a bit, but I really tried for more than a hour everything and never could make it capture any motion Frown.

ps: Still haven't bought a new wheel, I'm waiting for a promotion and still don't know if I will go with Logitech G29 or Thrustmaster T300, both are made to die, have to chose what poison should I buy, both companies could have used better and maybe even cheaper and more durable technologies, but it seems they like to rely on stuff that wear out like pots or using bad glue and bad plastic and they just fail like nutsDead banana
Last edited by guily6669, .
Demo licensed
Sadly no luck Frown

I bought a all metal encoder like the following:

I received it yesterday, tried fixing the wheel today with 0 luck.

I think the light sensors are simply misaligned, but I lost hours moving them to every kind of place and never picked up any wheel movement, even broke 1 leg of the IR emitter, soldered it, its emitting again, but really no way to make it work.

I also tried the encoder wheel on every kind of position, more to the middle, more to the emitter side, more to the receiver side and even at both edges, I also tried painting the encoder metal wheel with a black permanent ink marker and still nothing Frown...

Now I'm gonna have to wait for a promotion on a new wheel and spend a full year of savings Frown.

Which should I buy, Logitech G29 or Thrustmaster T300?

Both are made to die fast as far as I know G29 still has problems with the hall sensor (just like G25 G27 with the encoder wheels), the motors wear out and get harder and harder to move very fast as they build up crap from the brushes inside, they are basically the same crap as the ones on my G25.

Thrustmaster has a way better motor since brushless which will probably last longer than the rest that will break up fast though the plstic on the motor usually also breaks leaving the good motor unusable, the haul sensor starts to get loose as Thrustmaster don't even know there are better glues on the market...

All I see is that both are still expensive and break very fast and I also still don't know why they keep using pots on the god damn pedals when there is so much more cheap and better technology that they could have used that would last 4 ever, yeah they really want is that they break so we have to keep buying expensive shitty stuff...
Last edited by guily6669, .
Demo licensed
I don't even have space for that small thing here, this is almost a prison room size lol and already full of hadrware, wires and crap all over the place Smile

But that could work here is for the TV connecting the PC to the TV, but I would have to play from the side and the colors\contrast all goes to S*** viewing from side on my 4K TV... And would be booring to keep removing the wheel and everything every time I would want to use, no chance for that here Frown.
Demo licensed
I have the same problem, on my oldest still working logitechs wheels which I have Force FX and the Xbox360 version, I could drift easily or play rally games... When I bought the Logitech G25, I could never actually do much of a drift at 900º or rallying and never got used, but for GT games hell what a HUGE upgrade.

Anyway my problem here is setup since I'm using a very old desk that its not even good for keyboard and mouse, even makes my aiming broken and uncomfortable...

The wheel barely can stick to this thick desk, the gearbox doesnt even lock only the bolt sticks and I can't put it further in front, the wheel is too high and on an uncomfortable setup that mostly only feels natural to do 1 turn max and the pedals are against the wall and on a bad place too and I'm using a chair with wheels so if I brake I get moved back, and if this is all so damn bad already, the wheel is very little which makes it even worse, its nothing like when I'm sitting very confortable on my Peugeot 206 where I can totally grab the big wheel fine and turn it as much as I want it feels so damn confortable......

And I don't have enough space to buy or make anything better here, 2.5 by 2.5 meters room with 2x 5.1 speakers + 2.1 speakers, 1 big table with a 43 inch samsung 4K TV, a bed, a wardrobe, a bedside table, a bad desk and not even space for my huge PC case its behind the door against the wall with the fans spraying hot air into my face and the door always slamming it Frown.
Demo licensed
I tested the IR emitter a few days ago with my phone camera and its working, the receiver however I used some random pins and it measured around 4.2V if I'm remembering well, but I didnt have anyone help to block all the light and do it in complete darkness to see if the voltage would change Frown...

Anyway I ordered a new wheel encoder for 20$, it will probably take more than a month to arrive, then I will update here If I made it work...

And if it start picking up wheel movement, then I will fully disassemble the other motor, fully clean all the internals, use a very thin sandpaper like 2000 and make the brush contacts shinning like new, however I suspect the problem is the bearings and I don't know what size they are to order some new ones...

And in case the brushes are worn, does anyone know what kind of brushes suit best, can I buy like some cheap ones from from RC motors like 540 size or bigger? And whats the best ones, carbon?
Demo licensed
Quote from nikopdr :Is it the 60-slot encoder wheel? If so, they are quite affordable, here's a stainless steel one for 19€ as an example:

Yes I know that part and I already contacted a seller and that part is quite expensive...

19€ for like 10 cents worth of metal...

The problem is the 2 optic sensors got moved from their place a bit and I also don't know if they are working anymore and I need is a way to test them but don't know how to test the 2 sensors (can't test with my encoder wheel because it got all broken and warped all over the place)...

If they are good I would buy that decoder 60 hole wheel. G29 have been in a promotion for 200€ a few time ago, that 10 cent worth of metal part is like almost 1/10th of the price of the whole G29 in last promotion lool.

Sadly now the G29 is around 300€ locally so even if I can't fix my G25 I can't buy a new racing wheel for now as I don't have much money to spend on something that breaks after like 1000 hours or so Frown.

The motors are both working, just the other without the encoder is a bit harder to turn, I fully cleaned it, but didnt fix the problem, I might need to fully open it or change the bearings, but they seem hard to open and I dont see anything while searching on how to open G25/G27 motors.
Last edited by guily6669, .
Logitech G25 optical encoder problem + motor
Demo licensed
Hi there,

My encoder wheel is fully broken and warped, I had previously glued it and worked fine. Last week I opened the wheel again and was broken again, I re-glued it, but now it doesn't pick up anything...

The optical sensor also got misaligned and might went bad.

Does anyone know if its too hard to align the optical sensor and how can I check if its working with like a multimeter?

I don't want to spend a lot on a new wheel encoder to then find out the sensor is bad.

Also the other motor without the encoder is a bit harder to turn, I fully deep it in WD40 and used a 9V battery to turn it, the oil got full of black stuff very fast probably from the brushes wearing material inside, then I passed alcohol and used a de-greaser spray on the motor and oiled the bearings, but it still is a bit harder to turn.

Does anyone ever opened a G25/G27 motor, if yes, is it too hard?

Thank You