Well, 5 years later, things have changed, as have opinions about certian people, i now wholly retract the above, Carl, aka MC Storm, would do over anyone to get himself ahead, the man is the biggest c**t in the hardcore scene, and probably a front runner for one of the biggest arseholes in the world.
Finally the respray is done, considering its rattle can grafitti paint it's come out quite well, the black trim now looks super rubbish and needs replacing doing, I throughly sanded it the first time, and degreased it plus used proper plastic primer, oh well, wheels also need to be gunmetal grey, she's nearly done now.
My 550ti has been doing stuff like that recently with all games, it finally started blue screening and monitor going on and off, and as i figured i had nothing to lose i took the fans and heat sync off, alcohol wiped everything clean and stuck some new thermal paste on, built it back up and no problems since, in fact it runs cooler and gets better FPS in any game than it ever has since i owned it, better then ever.
Heard this a couple of days ago in my mates car, it was a whole set but this is the only track i have managed to find so far, and i take back everything i ever said about the genre of psytrance being rubbish, because this is really good.
Just had a good old explore on the new BL, love that industrial area, looks amazing too, the only thing i would have feedback about is that if you happen to go off the road up onto the middle of the new rounabout then those trees in the centre have pretty gnarly collision detection, not as bad as the bouncy barriers of old but i was ping ponging around for a few seconds.
Ahh I See, I just opened lfs up for the first time since building a newer pc a while back (finally binned the pentium 4 haha) and it didn't look quite as crisp as before, although I had hi res textures and all sorts before, my install on this is stock, I guess I'll need to play with my graphics settings to get it how I like it, thanks flame
Hi all, i know its been years since i remember seeing it but is that realistic reflection pack (i think lynce made it?) still around, i found some skies and track textures from a few years ago (bits of one of the revolution packs i think) but im struggling to find the real reflection pack anymore, anyone know?
I cant remember if i evr did start a little write up of my car to date or not so here's one anyway.
When i first bought it nearly 3 years ago, very standard, very average...
I then resprayed all the faded discoloured trim plastic and the grille in satin black.
Then realised that the headlights looked like total garbage so got some new ones designed for the facelift post 2000 cars, luckily they fit...
Then super clear indicator lenses to match, and silvatek bulbs, much better.
I was then approached at work about an old set of alloys that were going to be thrown away, rays engineering split rims, in 17 inch, and in 4x114 stud pattern, winner.
Test fitment, tyre size hilarious but they fit, success!
So old tyres off, refurbed myself...
Arch gap looks absolutely pathetic though so coilovers ordered, in the mean time i can create the custom freer flowing exhaust system now all the bits are here, all she has is one small box and the 4 inch tip, and the cat obviously which has to stay for legal reasons, sounds top and goes a lot better without the 2 massive boxes and a resonator in the mix anymore.
I then fitted the rear coilovers as they came really quickly (as you can see in the picture) but couldnt do the fronts as i needed the later model top mounts, back to ebay then, just time to finish the exhaust tip, not bad for someone who's only used a welder a handful of times, welded it all myself, no leaks at all either, which is nice
And coilovers fitted and set up, just the way i like it
All that remains now is to do the respray, iv'e had the paint for over a month but am just waiting for a good enough day weather wise, i know its graffiti paint and so isn't really meant to spray a car but i have a few friends who have done theirs and it really has come out well so i'm gonna do it anyway, plus i love the colour.
That's about it really, i think ill be redoing the wheels in anthracite or metallic gunmetal once the repray is done but other than that i think thats all i really want to do, although the T4 engine would be nice haha
I did bangers once, hence the name, didnt do so good, 2 and a half laps, dent in every panel, car dead.
I did also dabble in karting very briefly, at the LFS kart meet no less, 2010 and 2011 if i remember right, me becky rose the very end and i cant remember the other team member, we won the endurance one year, although that was more down to becky and TVE's driving than mine, i wasnt so good lol
All sorted in the end, i was able to get the seat taper angle measured (we have a small machine ahop at work) which confirmed that they take a standard 60 degree nut, meaning i was able to use the original standard volvo alloy nuts that are already on the car, so the wheels are now on, the coilovers need to go on ASAP, it sits laughably high.
What even is this? I'm a 32 year old man who downloaded it on a whim to see what it was all about because half of my Facebook friends are going nuts about it, fast forward barely 24 hours and I'm taking scenic routes to places and openly volunteering to pop out to the shop just in case something good pops up, this is the crack cocaine of gaming and it's ruining my life haha
Hi all, I have just got a set of rays victrix kreutzer alloys for my car, 17 inch, 2 piece splits, perfect, saved from the skip at work too so absolutely free, winner. However, I am reading that some rays wheels need a specific type of nut for use with them that you can only buy from rays themselves. From looking online it appears that it's only some of their wheels that need these, at least one of their volks range and maybe a couple of others, I can't really find anything more definitive than that. Is anyone here familiar with their wheels and may know the answer, as I'm really hoping that standard 60 degree tapered ones for alloys will be OK but I'd obviously rather be sure.
I have indeed thought about pcd adaptors, but the additional thickness these will add on between the wheel and the hub will almost certainly make the wheels foul on the wheel arches. I have asked on the makes forum but an 17 year old volvo estate isnt usually the car of choice to do things like this to, if truth be told im not really sure why its my choice of car to do things to either really, i just want to be different i guess, plus the car has been flat out reliable all the time ive owned it, so dont want to risk getting something different and it turning out to be a bit of a lemon.
Hi all, I have just bought a set of 17" rs4 reps very very cheaply (Pics attached) and they are the incorrect pcd for my car, so I'm just looking to clarify what my options might be.
The wheels are multi fit, 4x108 and 4x100, but as sods law would dictate, of course, my car is 4x114.3, however, the way the existing holes are positioned means there is ample room for 4 more holes to be drilled in the correct pcd.
There is more than enough space away from the beginning of the spokes and miles away from the mating face edge on the rear of the wheel that would sit against the hub, and although the 108 holes in the picture sit quite close to the centre cap line, and i am aware that a set of 114 PCD holes may very slightly encroach where the centre cap would fit, i can live with half a millimeter of a bolt hole showing if it comes to it, thats not a concern really, but as I don't know much about wheels I'm just wondering if 12 holes in a wheel is actually safe?
But if its not then would I be able to get them drilled and then have the other holes welded up?
I have exhausted the possibility of hub adapters as the thinnest ones I can find would almost certainly result in the wheel meeting the arch, with an et of 35 on the new rims and 44 on my standards, plus a rim thats wider im going to be getting on for anywhere between 15 and 25mm more poke without any adaptors, and even if by some miracle the 15mm ones I have found were to just clear they aren't hub centric and I wouldn't wish to run with no centre support because I'm basically not a loony.
Another option would be to have the rear of the wheel machined so that I could run a decent hub centric adaptor, but again I'm not sure if removing material from the mating face of a wheel would be wise.
I have also considered having the hubs redrilled but I'm put off a little because if I want to change cars in future then I'd be unable to refit the standard 15s if I wanted to.
Sorry for all the text but I'm pretty clueless and wanted to get all the relevant info in.
Neither of those systems should even be breaking a sweat running LFS, my last pc was a 3.6ghz pentium 4 machine from 2005 with only 4gb ram and an old radeon hd5450 512mb gpu and apart from the obvious cpu bottleneck I used to get I could run at least 40fps with a full grid and most graphics settings on highest most of the time, LFS should absolutely fly on either of those.
Programs wise i have nothing running that i dont need, i only installed windows about 2 weeks ago which was an upgrade from a fresh install of 7 only the day before (i ballsed up the upgrade the first time by doing a clean install rather than an upgrade so reformatted and started again)so its clean as a whistle in that respect, plus once i got 10 running i used ccleaner to remove any remnants of the old 7 install and i also used the wipe free space feature, i then used defraggler after id installed all the programs i want at present as well.
The HDD is maybe 4 years old, bog standard 500GB seagate barracuda i bought new when i originally bought 7, its been a faultless drive and in honesty hasnt really done much as i never used to use the old P4 rig very much.
I have got malwarebytes pro and no malware or anything found, not even a single tracking cookie
I have just installed LFS on my parents ancient compaq sg3100UK which has a pentium D @ 3.0ghz (barely 100 points higher than my old P4 on passmark) only 2gb ram and some onboard ****y of a GPU and i get mid 20s on full detail on that so god only knows, as my new build far surpasses this thing.
I have just bought a second hand nvidia gtx550ti off one of my mates for £30 as my hd5450 really isnt up to much, so ill see what happens when i get that fitted, it should fly as the CPU is more than capable of anything LFS can throw at it, or anything that i can throw at it in fact, the other day i tried to load it up by running a virus scan, LFS in maximised windowed mode, encoding and saving a 4 hour long file into mp3 format and watching an HD video in full screen on youtube all at the same time, never got close to 100% usage and still had about 1gb of ram left unused as well.
Hi Whiskey, i didnt even know LFS had such a chart, but i have found it now, in windowed mode the sleep box is empty, the physics box has a narrow line all the way up and the wait box reading is about a quarter of the width of the box, and full screen mode the sleep box is again empty, the physics box has a line around a quarter as wide as the box all the way along with some tiny spikes in, and the wait box is a solid red bar.
As for heat and stuff, after opening CPUID HWmonitor and leaving LFS playing a 20 car AI race on SO long in full screen for about 15 minutes gave a max temp of 50 degrees,on average barely 45, and CPU usage as a whole wasnt even at 20%, so its hardly stretching its legs really.
@forbin, this a brand fine new install of LFS done last night, the PC has barely been built for 2 weeks, its literally near enough the only program on the entire PC.
Hi all, recently upgraded from an early 2000s P4 3.6ghz based machine to a slightly more modern quad core machine, full specs are...
Win 10 home x64
Q9650 cpu 3.0ghz
8gb DDR2-800 samsung RAM
512mb HD5450 GPU
750w silent cooling PSU
I know my GPU is far from good, but this very card in my old p4 machine i mentioned (that only had 3.0gb ram and a weaker PSU) used to give me around 60 fps with all graphics settings at about half way, it used to bottleneck quite badly with lots of cars on turn 1 etc but still OK, hell, my agp hd2600 pro in my previous p4 2.53 could manage early 40s with modest settings!
but with this build, i can get around 20 fps, if that, regardless of whether i have the graphics settings on minimum, half, full, etc, barely 5 fps difference between lowest and highest settings, 1 car alone or a 20 car grid makes no difference to fps at all, all my GPU drivers are all up to date and everything, running LFS in win7 compatibility mode doesnt help.
i have tried the usual v sync on or off option which made no difference, 16/32 bit resolution also has no effect, i have an old monitor though so am limited to 1280x1024 anyway, however, the only thing that gives me 90 odd FPS with a full grid and all graphics settings on full is if i run in windowed mode but with it maximised, the problem is only with full screen mode for some odd reason.
this is an average reading using 4 scenarios with a full grid, cockpit mode, SO long...
maximised with full graphics ~95 fps
maximised with minimal graphics ~180 fps
full screen with full graphics ~ 16 fps
full screen with minimal graphics ~ 22 fps
I did have a search to find an answer but to no avail, so has anyone else encountered this issue with full screen mode?
I'm unsure of how it all works as I say but my mate swears his games well within the leagues of an I5, admittedly he is running a modest overclock though, as I also will be as well, it'll still be a heck of a lot better than I've ever been used to be for that's for sure, as my comp history is... 486dx266, p3 866, p4 1.9, p4 2.53, p4 2.8 and now p4 3.6, never anything good, so in comparison this will be nuts haha
Cheers guys, although to be honest I don't really game anymore, and for the initial outlay, which will basically be the CPU cooler and a mobo, I'm going to have something with significantly more guts than the single core P4 I have at the moment, I don't really know how it all works but my friend swears that his build, which has a smaller CPU than my chosen one can beat i3s and keep with i5s so that'll be more than I'll ever need, even if I can only maintain an OC of say 4ghz stable, that's going to give me 16ghz of speed in comparison to the 3.6 I have at the moment, plus A far better cache, and presuming I do get extra ram I'll see gains there, what I basically want is to be able to encode say an hour of music in 320k MP3 format and it not take nearly 20 minutes to save lol.